天山脚下的雄鹰——《新疆行》之二The Ironsides at the foot of Tianshan——A trip to Xinjiang Ⅱ
在新疆维吾尔自治区的北疆,有被驴友推崇的一条旅游热线,就是从独山子至库车的公路旅游线。这条旅游热线汇集着北疆最美丽的景色:乔尔玛、那拉提、巩乃斯国家森林公园、巴音布鲁克和天山大峡谷等等。There is a popular route for tourists in the north of Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region which leads from Dushanzi to Kuqa, linking together the best scenery of northern Xinjiang including Qiaoerma, Narat, Kunes National Forest Park, Bayanbulak and the canyon in Tianshan Mountains. 但是,在这条公路的背后,有多少修建者感人的故事却鲜为人知。这次新疆之行,我们才了解到这一切,感受到公路建设者们的艰辛和伟大。While the tourist route is well known by many, the story of the pathfinders however, is known by only a few. We knew nothing about the hardships of the pathfinders either, until we took a journey in Xinjiang. 天山山脉将广袤的新疆拦腰斩为两半。山脉成为南北疆的交通屏障,当年的交通只能靠骑马或步行,而疆内盛产的石油、棉花、羊绒等物资却运不出去。同时因为边境线长,官兵巡逻戍边更是困难重重。1974年春天,被改编为中国人民解放军00129部队的官兵挺进新疆。在万里荒原还被冰封雪裹的时候,这支筑路大军的万余名官兵就开进了天山腹地,在东起油城独山子,西至龟兹古国库车的广阔地域内,拉开向天山宣战的序幕,并从此肩担负起筑路的重任。这支部队就是现在的武警交通二总队。Tianshan Mountains divide the vast region of Xinjiang into two parts forming a barrier between the north and south. In earlier times, the only means to travel across the mountains was on foot or on horseback. Xinjiang was rich in petroleum, cotton and cashmere, but it was impossible to transport them outside. Even worse, the border line in Xinjiang was so long that security officials guarding the border region were bristled with difficulties. In the spring of 1974, Troop 00129 of the Chinese People's Liberation Army entered Xinjiang, where they declared war on Tianshan Mountains and began a mission of building roads. At that time Xinjiang was a barren wasteland, a chilled hollow of ice and snow. The adversities of the soldiers were unimaginable, but they managed to open up a new road starting from Dushanzi in the east and ending at Kuqa in the west. Nowadays, the troop is called Armed PoliceTransportation Forces Troop No.2. 在建设新疆第一条高等级公路吐(鲁番)乌(鲁木齐)大(黄山)路中,武警交通二总队担负的施工路段是在戈壁滩。戈壁滩上施工有三恼:日晒、风吹、蚊虫咬。光秃秃的荒原无遮无拦,炎炎烈日下地表温度高达50摄氏度至60摄氏度。官兵们住的帐篷被烤得烫人,帐篷内像蒸笼,人一进去就浑身冒汗,在床上躺一会儿,床单就会湿得拧出水来。在戈壁滩上,五六级风不算风、七八级风才算起步。风暴袭来,满天沙尘,满地跑石。帐篷被刮得摇摇晃晃,在帐篷内都很难睁开眼。在路基上干活儿,人们只好用衣服蒙住脑袋,趴在地上,等风小一点再干。戈壁滩虽无走兽飞禽,但成群的蚊虫着实厉害,多而大且有毒,被咬一口,奇痒无比。为了抵御蚊虫的袭击,官兵们劳动时都得带上一块透明的纱巾,蒙住面部和脖子。冬天,在零下45摄氏度的恶劣气候下,官兵们睡觉时都要头戴皮帽,身穿皮大衣,连毛皮鞋也不敢脱。打风钻时,手粘在冰凉的钻杆上,抬手就能撕下一块皮。在海拔3000多米的地域施工,高山反应也让官兵们吃不好、睡不着,痛苦难忍。When building the first road leading from Turpan to Dahuangshan via Urumqi, the troop had to carry out the construction work in the Gobi desert, harassed by the burning sun, the howling winds and the besetting mosquitoes. It was a barren wasteland without any shade from the sun; the surface temperature of the region could reach 50℃ to 60℃. Their tents became so hot that no one could possibly live in them without leaving their sheets soaking wet with sweat . gale force winds arose frequently from the Gobi desert causing sandstorms which rained down , sand and stones from the sky. The tents lurched from side to side and people could hardly open their eyes even when hiding in the tents. The soldiers had to wrap their heads with clothes, lie prone on the ground and wait until the wind storm abated to resume their work. Mosquitoes in the desert were dangerous, poisonous and large in size. Merely one bite would cause one to itch unbearably. To prevent themselves from the attack of mosquitoes, the soldiers had to wear a silk scarf around their faces and necks while working. The temperature could suddenly drop to minus 45 degrees in winter; they couldn't take off their clothes and wore fur hats when sleeping in the tents. Very often, their hands stuck frozen to the handles of pneumatic drills; the skin of their hands could be easily torn off with a single move of the hand. When the construction work was carried out in mountains more than 3,000 meters above the sea level, altitudesickness would make it impossible to eat and sleep. 就是在这样的工作环境下,经过三十多年艰苦卓绝的奋斗,这支南征北战、战功卓著的英雄部队,在天山南北和阿里高原筑路60余条、总长4500多公里,被新疆各族群众誉为"天路铁军"。而这支英雄部队中的183名官兵,却永远长眠在了戈壁滩上。他们中有营长、指导员,也有普通战士。It was under such severe circumstances that the heroic troop, which had fought all over the country with distinctive performances, succeeded in building more than 60 roads (all together 4,500 km in length) in the region of Tianshan Mountains and Ngari Plateau. They were called "Ironsides of Holy Paths" by the people of Xinjiang, but 183 soldiers sacrificed their lives in the desert during the mission, among whom there were battalion commanders, political instructors and ordinary soldiers. 为了让世人永远铭记他们的英雄业绩,新疆维吾尔自治区和原乌鲁木齐军区专门为他们修建了天山独库公路烈士纪念碑。我们怀着极其崇敬的心情,在路边采集了一些鲜花,郑重地献在了庄严肃穆的烈士墓前,然后后退几步,恭恭敬敬地向烈士们三鞠躬,表达对他们的缅怀之情。For people to remember the feats of the martyrs, a monument was built near Duku Road by the governments of Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region and Urumqi Military Area. We paid a visit to the monument and with great respect, put around it some flowers we picked along the roadside. We bowed three times in front of the monument to honor the memory of the martyrs. 本文内容及图片均来自一尘天空的博客http://fuyunqsct.blog.sohu.com/,为适应栏目需求文字略有修改。感谢原作者的转载授权和大力支持。