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hundred-fold stronger and more vivid than in

us, ecstatic composers of narratives in words and
on paper.

"You have grown accustomed, I suppose, to
these magnificent pictures!" I said.

"Yes, sir, you can even grow accustomed to
the whistling of a bullet, that is to say, accus-

tomed to concealing the involuntary thumping
of your heart."

"I have heard, on the contrary, that many an
old warrioractually finds that music agreeable."

"Of course, if it comes to that, it is agree-
able; but only just because the heart beats

more violently. Look!" he added, pointing
towards the east. "What a country!"

And, indeed, such a panorama I can hardly
hope to see elsewhere. Beneath us lay the

Koishaur Valley, intersected by the Aragva and
another stream as if by two silver threads; a

bluish mist was gliding along the valley, fleeing
into the neighbouring defiles from the warm

rays of the morning. To right and left the
mountain crests, towering higher and higher,

intersected each other and stretched out, covered
with snows and thickets; in the distance were

the same mountains, which now, however, had
the appearance of two cliffs, one like to the

other. And all these snows were burning in the
crimson glow so merrily and so brightly that it

seemed as though one could live in such a place
for ever. The sun was scarcely visible behind the

dark-blue mountain, which only a practised eye
could distinguish from a thunder-cloud; but

above the sun was a blood-red streak to which
my companion directed particular attention.

"I told you," he exclaimed, "that there
would be dirty weather to-day! We must make

haste, or perhaps it will catch us on Mount
Krestov. -- Get on!" he shouted to the drivers.

Chains were put under the wheels in place of
drags, so that they should not slide, the drivers

took the horses by the reins, and the descent
began. On the right was a cliff, on the left a

precipice, so deep that an entire village of
Ossetes at the bottom looked like a swallow's

nest. I shuddered, as the thought occurred to
me that often in the depth of night, on that

very road, where two wagons could not pass,
a courier drives some ten times a year without

climbing down from his rickety vehicle. One
of our drivers was a Russian peasant from Yaro-

slavl, the other, an Ossete. The latter took out
the leaders in good time and led the shaft-horse

by the reins, using every possible precaution --
but our heedless compatriot did not even climb

down from his box! When I remarked to him
that he might put himself out a bit, at least in

the interests of my portmanteau, for which I
had not the slightest desire to clamber down into

the abyss, he answered:
"Eh, master, with the help of Heaven we

shall arrive as safe and sound as the others; it's
not our first time, you know."

And he was right. We might just as easily
have failed to arrive at all; but arrive we did,

for all that. And if people would only reason
a little more they would be convinced that life

is not worth taking such a deal of trouble
about.

Perhaps, however, you would like to know the
conclusion of the story of Bela? In the first

place, this is not a novel, but a collection of
travelling-notes, and, consequently, I cannot make

the staff-captain tell the story sooner than he
actually proceeded to tell it. Therefore, you

must wait a bit, or, if you like, turn over a few
pages. Though I do not advise you to do the

latter, because the crossing of Mount Krestov
(or, as the erudite Gamba calls it, le mont St.

Christophe[1]) is worthy of your curiosity.
[1] Krestov is an adjective meaning "of the cross"

(Krest=cross); and, of course, is not the Russian for
"Christophe."

Well, then, we descended Mount Gut into the
Chertov Valley. . . There's a romantic desig-

nation for you! Already you have a vision of
the evil spirit's nest amid the inaccessible cliffs --

but you are out of your reckoning there. The
name "Chertov" is derived from the word

cherta (boundary-line) and not from chort (devil),
because, at one time, the valley marked the

boundary of Georgia. We found it choked with
snow-drifts, which reminded us rather vividly

of Saratov, Tambov, and other charming localities
of our fatherland.

"Look, there is Krestov!" said the staff-
captain, when we had descended into the Chertov

Valley, as he pointed out a hill covered with a
shroud of snow. Upon the summit stood out

the black outline of a stone cross, and past it led
an all but imperceptible road which travellers

use only when the side-road is obstructed with
snow. Our drivers, declaring that no avalanches

had yet fallen, spared the horses by conducting
us round the mountain. At a turning we met

four or five Ossetes, who offered us their services;
and, catching hold of the wheels, proceeded, with

a shout, to drag and hold up our cart. And, in-
deed, it is a dangerous road; on the right were

masses of snow hanging above us, and ready, it
seemed, at the first squall of wind to break off

and drop into the ravine; the narrow road was
partly covered with snow, which, in many places,

gave way under our feet and, in others, was
converted into ice by the action of the sun by

day and the frosts by night, so that the horses
kept falling, and it was with difficulty that we

ourselves made our way. On the left yawned a
deep chasm, through which rolled a torrent, now

hiding beneath a crust of ice, now leaping and
foaming over the black rocks. In two hours we

were barely able to double Mount Krestov -- two
versts in two hours! Meanwhile the clouds had

descended, hail and snow fell; the wind, burst-
ing into the ravines, howled and whistled like

Nightingale the Robber.[1] Soon the stone cross
was hidden in the mist, the billows of which, in

ever denser and more compact masses, rushed in
from the east. . .

[1] A legendary Russian hero whose whistling knocked people
down.

Concerning that stone cross, by the way,
there exists the strange, but widespread, tradition

that it had been set up by the Emperor Peter
the First when travelling through the Caucasus.

In the first place, however, the Emperor went no
farther than Daghestan; and, in the second

place, there is an inscription in large letters on the
cross itself, to the effect that it had been erected

by order of General Ermolov, and that too in the
year 1824. Nevertheless, the tradition has taken

such firm root, in spite of the inscription, that
really you do not know what to believe; the more

so, as it is not the custom to believe inscriptions.
To reach the station Kobi, we still had to

descend about five versts, across ice-covered rocks
and plashy snow. The horses were exhausted; we

were freezing; the snowstorm droned with ever-
increasing violence, exactly like the storms of

our own northern land, only its wild melodies
were sadder and more melancholy.

"O Exile," I thought, "thou art weeping
for thy wide, free steppes! There mayest thou

unfold thy cold wings, but here thou art stifled
and confined, like an eagle beating his wings, with

a shriek, against the grating of his iron cage!"
"A bad look out," said the staff-captain.

"Look! There's nothing to be seen all round
but mist and snow. At any moment we may

tumble into an abyss or stick fast in a cleft; and
a little lower down, I dare say, the Baidara has

risen so high that there is no getting across it.
Oh, this Asia, I know it! Like people, like

rivers! There's no trusting them at all!"
The drivers, shouting and cursing, belaboured

the horses, which snorted, resisted obstinately,
and refused to budge on any account, notwith-

standing the eloquence of the whips.
"Your honour," one of the drivers said to me

at length, "you see, we will never reach Kobi
to-day. Won't you give orders to turn to the

left while we can? There is something black
yonder on the slope -- probably huts. Travellers

always stop there in bad weather, sir. They
say," he added, pointing to the Ossetes, "that they

will lead us there if you will give them a tip."
"I know that, my friend, I know that without

your telling me," said the staff-captain. "Oh,
these beasts! They are delighted to seize any

pretext for extorting a tip!"
"You must confess, however," I said, "that

we should be worse off without them."
"Just so, just so," he growled to himself. "I

know them well -- these guides! They scent out
by instinct a chance of takingadvantage of

people. As if it was impossible to find the way
without them!"

Accordingly we turned aside to the left, and,
somehow or other, after a good deal of trouble,

made our way to the wretched shelter, which
consisted of two huts built of stone slabs and

rubble, surrounded by a wall of the same
material. Our ragged hosts received us with

alacrity. I learned afterwards that the Govern-
ment supplies them with money and food upon

condition that they put up travellers who are
overtaken by storm.

CHAPTER VIII
"ALL is for the best," I said, sitting down

close by the fire. "Now you will finish
telling me your story about Bela. I am certain



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