place of settlement in this new
capacity; and here, for some few
months, he had established himself when John his second child was
born. This was Captain Sterling's first attempt towards a fixed
course of life; not a very wise one, I have understood:--yet on the
whole, who, then and there, could have
pointed out to him a wiser?
A fixed course of life and activity he could never
attain, or not till
very late; and this
doubtless was among the important points of his
destiny, and acted both on his own
character and that of those who had
to attend him on his wayfarings.
CHAPTER III.
SCHOOLS: LLANBLETHIAN; PARIS; LONDON.
Edward Sterling never shone in farming; indeed I believe he never took
heartily to it, or tried it except in fits. His Bute farm was, at
best, a kind of
apology for some far different ideal of a country
establishment which could not be realized; practically a temporary
landing-place from which he could make sallies and excursions in
search of some more
generous field of
enterprise. Stormy brief
efforts at
energetichusbandry, at
agriculturalimprovement and rapid
field-labor, alternated with sudden flights to Dublin, to London,
whithersoever any flush of bright
outlook which he could denominate
practical, or any gleam of hope which his
impatient ennui could
represent as such, allured him. This latter was often enough the
case. In wet hay-times and harvest-times, the dripping outdoor world,
and lounging indoor one, in the
absence of the master, offered far
from a
satisfactory appearance! Here was, in fact, a man much
imprisoned;
haunted, I doubt not, by demons enough; though ever brisk
and brave withal,--iracund, but
cheerfullyvigorous, opulent in wise
or
unwise hope. A fiery
energetic soul
consciously and un
consciously
storming for
deliverance into better arenas; and this in a restless,
rapid,
impetuous, rather than in a strong, silent and
deliberate way.
In rainy Bute and the dilapidated Kaimes Castle, it was
evident, there
lay no Goshen for such a man. The lease,
originally but for some
three years and a half,
drawing now to a close, he
resolved to quit
Bute; had heard, I know not where, of an eligible
cottage without farm
attached, in the pleasant little village of Llanblethian close by
Cowbridge in Glamorganshire; of this he took a lease, and
thither with
his family he moved in search of new fortunes. Glamorganshire was at
least a better
climate than Bute; no groups of idle or of busy reapers
could here stand
waiting on the
guidance of a master, for there was no
farm here;--and among its other and probably its chief though secret
advantages, Llanblethian was much more
convenient both for Dublin and
London than Kaimes Castle had been.
The
removalthither took place in the autumn of 1809. Chief part of
the journey (perhaps from Greenock to Swansea or Bristol) was by sea:
John, just turned of three years, could in after-times remember
nothing of this
voyage; Anthony, some eighteen months older, has still
a vivid
recollection" target="_blank" title="n.回忆;追想;记忆力">
recollection of the gray splashing
tumult, and dim sorrow,
uncertainty, regret and
distress he underwent: to him a
"dissolving-view" which not only left its effect on the _plate_ (as
all views and dissolving-views
doubtless do on that kind of "plate"),
but remained
consciously present there. John, in the close of his
twenty-first year, professes not to remember anything
whatever of
Bute; his whole
existence, in that earliest scene of it, had faded
away from him: Bute also, with its
shaggy mountains, moaning woods,
and summer and winter seas, had been
wholly a dissolving-view for him,
and had left no
consciousimpression, but only, like this
voyage, an
effect.
Llanblethian hangs
pleasantly, with its white
cottages, and
orchardand other trees, on the
western slope of a green hill looking far and
wide over green meadows and little or bigger hills, in the pleasant
plain of Glamorgan; a short mile to the south of Cowbridge, to which
smart little town it is
properly a kind of
suburb. Plain of
Glamorgan, some ten miles wide and thirty or forty long, which they
call the Vale of Glamorgan;--though
properly it is not quite a Vale,
there being only one range of mountains to it, if even one: certainly
the central Mountains of Wales do gradually rise, in a miscellaneous
manner, on the north side of it; but on the south are no mountains,
not even land, only the Bristol Channel, and far off, the Hills of
Devonshire, for boundary,--the "English Hills," as the natives call
them,
visible from every
eminence in those parts. On such wide terms
is it called Vale of Glamorgan. But called by
whatever name, it is a
most pleasant
fruitful region: kind to the native, interesting to the
visitor. A waving
grassy region; cut with
innumerableragged lanes;
dotted with
sleepy unswept human hamlets, old ruinous castles with
their ivy and their daws, gray
sleepy churches with their ditto ditto:
for ivy everywhere abounds; and generally a rank
fragrant vegetation
clothes all things;
hanging, in rude many-colored festoons and fringed
odoriferous tapestries, on your right and on your left, in every lane.
A country kinder to the sluggard husbandman than any I have ever seen.
For it lies all on
limestone, needs no draining; the soil, everywhere
of handsome depth and finest quality, will grow good crops for you
with the most
imperfect tilling. At a safe distance of a day's riding
lie the tartarean copper-forges of Swansea, the tartarean iron-forges
of Merthyr; their sooty battle far away, and not, at such safe
distance, a defilement to the face of the earth and sky, but rather an
encouragement to the earth at least; encouraging the husbandman to
plough better, if he only would.
The
peasantry seem indolent and
stagnant, but
peaceable and
well-provided; much given to Methodism when they have any
character;--for the rest, an
innocent good-humored people, who all
drink home-brewed beer, and have brown loaves of the most excellent
home-baked bread. The native
peasant village is not generally
beautiful, though it might be, were it swept and trimmed; it gives one
rather the idea of sluttish stagnancy,--an interesting peep into the
Welsh Paradise of Sleepy Hollow. Stones, old kettles, naves of
wheels, all kinds of broken
litter, with live pigs and etceteras, lie
about the street: for, as a rule, no
rubbish is removed, but waits
patiently the action of mere natural
chemistry and accident; if even a
house is burnt or falls, you will find it there after half a century,
only cloaked by the ever-ready ivy. Sluggish man seems never to have
struck a pick into it; his new hut is built close by on ground not
encumbered, and the old stones are still left lying.
This is the ordinary Welsh village; but there are exceptions, where
people of more
cultivated tastes have been led to settle, and
Llanblethian is one of the more signal of these. A
decidedly cheerful
group of human homes, the greater part of them indeed belonging to
persons of
refined habits; trimness, shady shelter, whitewash, neither
conveniency nor
decoration has been neglected here. Its effect from
the distance on the
eastward is very pretty: you see it like a little
sleeping
cataract of white houses, with trees overshadowing and
fringing it; and there the
cataract hangs, and does not rush away from
you.
John Sterling spent his next five years in this
locality. He did not
again see it for a quarter of a century; but
retained, all his life, a
lively
remembrance of it; and, just in the end of his twenty-first
year, among his earliest printed pieces, we find an
elaborate and
diffuse
description of it and its relations to him,--part of which
piece, in spite of its
otherwiseinsignificant quality, may find place
here:--
"The fields on which I first looked, and the sands which were marked
by my earliest footsteps, are completely lost to my memory; and of
those ancient walls among which I began to breathe, I
retain no
recollection" target="_blank" title="n.回忆;追想;记忆力">
recollection more clear than the outlines of a cloud in a moonless
sky. But of L----, the village where I afterwards lived, I persuade
myself that every line and hue is more deeply and
accurately fixed
than those of any spot I have since
beheld, even though borne in upon
the heart by the association of the strongest feelings.
"My home was built upon the slope of a hill, with a little
orchardstretching down before it, and a garden rising behind. At a
considerable distance beyond and beneath the
orchard, a
rivulet flowed
through meadows and turned a mill; while, above the garden, the summit
of the hill was crowned by a few gray rocks, from which a yew-tree
grew,
solitary and bare. Extending at each side of the
orchard,
toward the brook, two scattered patches of
cottages lay nestled among
their gardens; and beyond this
streamlet and the little mill and
bridge, another slight
eminence arose, divided into green fields,
tufted and bordered with copsewood, and crested by a ruined castle,
contemporary, as was said, with the Conquest. I know not whether these
things in truth made up a
prospect of much beauty. Since I was eight
years old, I have never seen them; but I well know that no
landscape I
have since
beheld, no picture of Claude or Salvator, gave me half the
impression of living, heartfelt, perfect beauty which fills my mind
when I think of that green
valley, that sparkling
rivulet, that broken
fortress of dark
antiquity, and that hill with its aged yew and breezy