came over to us.

"Now," said he cheerfully" target="_blank" title="ad.高兴地，愉快地">cheerfully, "we'll have a game of golf."
That was amusing, but not astonishing. Most of us have at one

time or another laid out a scratch hole or so somewhere in the
vacant lot. We returned to the house, Horne produced a

sufficiency of clubs, and we sallied forth. Then came the surprise
of our life! We played eighteen holes-eighteen, mind you-over

an excellently laid-out and kept-up course! The fair greens were
cropped short and smooth by a well-managed small herd of sheep;

the putting greens were rolled, and in perfect order; bunkers had
been located at the correct distances; there were water hazards

in the proper spots. In short, it was a genuine, scientific,
well-kept golf course. Over it played Horne, solitary except on

the rare occasions when he and his assistant happened to be at
the post at the same time. The nearest white man was six days'

journey; the nearest small civilization 196 miles.* The whole
affair was most astounding.

*Which was, in turn, over three hundred miles from the next.
Our caddies were grinning youngsters a good deal like the Gold

Dust Twins. They wore nothing but our golf bags. Afield were
other supernumerary caddies: one in case we sliced, one in case

we pulled, and one in case we drove straight ahead. Horne
explained that unlimited caddies were easier to get than

unlimited golf balls. I can well believe it.
F. joined forces with Horne against B. and me for a grand

international match. I regret to state that America was defeated
by two holes.

We returned to find our camp crowded with savages. In a short
time we had established trade relations and were doing a brisk

business. Two years before we should have had to barter
exclusively; but now, thanks to Horne's attempt to collect an

annual hut tax, money was some good. We had, however, very good
luck with bright blankets and cotton cloth. Our beads did not

happen here to be in fashion. Probably three months earlier or
later we might have done better with them. The feminine mind here

differs in no basic essential from that of civilization. Fashions
change as rapidly, as often and as completely in the jungle as in

Paris. The trader who brings blue beads when blue beads have
"gone out" might just as well have stayed at home. We bought a

number of the pretty "marquise" rings for four cents apiece (our
money), some war clubs or rungas for the same, several spears,

armlets, stools and the like. Billy thought one of the short,
soft skin cloaks embroidered with steel beads might be nice to

hang on the wall. We offered a youth two rupees for one. This
must have been a high price, for every man in hearing of the

words snatched off his cloak and rushed forward holding it out.
As that reduced his costume to a few knick-knacks, Billy retired

from the busy mart until we could arrange matters.
We dined with Horne. His official residence was most interesting.

The main room was very high to beams and a grass-thatched roof,
with a well-brushed earth floor covered with mats. It contained

comfortable furniture, a small library, a good phonograph,
tables, lamps and the like. When the mountain chill descended,

Horne lit a fire in a coal-oil can with a perforated bottom. What
little smoke was produced by the clean burning wood lost itself

far aloft. Leopard skins and other trophies hung on the wall. We
dined in another room at a well-appointed table. After dinner we

sat up until the unheard of hour of ten o'clock discussing at
length many matters that interested us. Horne told us of his

personal bodyguard consisting of one son from each chief of his
wide district. These youths were encouraged to make as good an

appearance as possible, and as a consequence turned out in the
extreme of savage gorgeousness. Horne spoke of them carelessly

as a "matter of policy in keeping the different tribes well
disposed," but I thought he was at heart a little proud of them.

Certainly, later and from other sources, we heard great tales of
their endurance, devotion and efficiency. Also we heard that

Horne had cut in half his six months' leave (earned by three
years' continuous service in the jungle) to hurry back from

England because he could not bear the thought of being absent
from the first collection of the hut tax! He is a good man.

We said good-night to him and stepped from the lighted house into
the vast tropical night. The little rays of our lantern showed us

the inequalities of the ground, and where to step across the
bubbling, little irrigationstreams. But thousands of stars

insisted on a simplification. The broad, rolling meadows of the
clearing lay half guessed in the dim light; and about its edge

was the velvet band of the forest, dark and mysterious,
stretching away for leagues into the jungle. From it near at

hand, far away, came the rhythmic beating of solemn great drums,
and the rising and falling chants of the savage peoples.

(C) THE CHIEFS
We left Meru well observed by a very large audience, much to the

delight of our safari boys, who love to show off. We had acquired
fourteen more small boys, or totos, ranging in age from eight to

twelve years. These had been fitted out by their masters to
alleviate their original shenzi appearance of savagery. Some had

ragged blankets, which they had already learned to twist turban
wise around their heads; others had ragged old jerseys reaching

to their knees, or the wrecks of full-grown undershirts; one or
two even sported baggy breeches a dozen sizes too large. Each

carried his little load, proudly, atop his head like a real
porter, sufurias or cooking pots, the small bags of potio, and

the like. Inside a mile they had gravitated together and with the
small boy's relish for imitation and for playing a game, had

completed a miniature safari organization of their own.
Thenceforth they marched in a compact little company, under

orders of their "headman." They marched very well, too, straight
and proud and tireless. Of course we inspected their loads to see

that they were not required to carry too much for their strength;
but, I am bound to say, we never discovered an attempt at

overloading. In fact, the toto brigade was treated very well
indeed. M'ganga especially took great interest in their education

and welfare. One of my most vivid camp recollections is that of
M'ganga, very benign and didactic, seated on a chop box and

holding forth to a semicircle of totos squatted on the ground
before him. On reaching camp totos had several clearly defined

duties: they must pick out good places for their masters'
individual camps, they must procure cooking stones, they must

collect kindling wood and start fires, they must fill the
sufurias with water and set them over to boil. In the meantime,

their masters were attending to the pitching of the bwana's camp.
The rest of the time the toto played about quite happily, and did

light odd jobs, or watched most attentively while his master
showed him small details of a safari-boy's duty, or taught him

simple handicraft. Our boys seemed to take great pains with
their totos and to try hard to teach them.

Also at Meru we had acquired two cocks and four hens of the
ridiculously small native breed. These rode atop the loads: their

feet were tied to the cords and there they swayed and teetered
and balanced all day long, apparently quite happy and interested.

At each new camp site they were released and went scratching and
clucking around among the tents. They lent our temporary quarters

quite a settled air of domesticity. We named the cocks Gaston and
Alphonse and somehow it was rather fine, in the blackness before

dawn, to hear these little birds crowing stout-heartedly against
the great African wilderness. Neither Gaston, Alphonse nor any of

their harem were killed and eaten by their owners; but seemed
rather to fulfil the function of household pets.

Along the jungle track we met swarms of people coming in to the