from the typicaldensity of the jungle. At first, we found, it
took some practice to tell a farm when we saw it.

>From the track narrow little paths wound immediately out of
sight. Sometimes we saw a wisp of smoke rising above the

undergrowth and eddying in the tops of the trees. Long vine ropes
swung from point to point, hung at intervals with such matters as

feathers, bones, miniature shields, carved sticks, shells and
clappers: either as magic or to keep off the birds. From either

side the track we were conscious always of bright black eyes
watching us. Sometimes we caught a glimpse of their owners

crouched in the bush, concealed behind banana leaves, motionless
and straight against a tree trunk. When they saw themselves

observed they vanished without a sound.
The upper air was musical with birds, and bright with the flutter

of their wings. Rarely did we see them long enough to catch a
fair idea of their size and shape. They flashed from shade to

shade, leaving only an impression of brilliant colour. There were
some exceptions: as the widower-bird, dressed all in black, with

long trailing wing-plumes of which he seemed very proud; and the
various sorts of green pigeons and parrots. There were many

flowering shrubs and trees, and the air was laden with perfume.
Strange, too, it seemed to see tall trees with leaves three or

four feet long and half as many wide.
We were riding a mile or so ahead of the safari. At first we were

accompanied only by our gunbearers and syces. Before long,
however, we began to accumulate a following.

This consisted at first of a very wonderful young man, probably a
chief's son. He carried a long bright spear, wore a short sword

thrust through a girdle, had his hair done in three wrapped
queues, one over each temple and one behind, and was generally

brought to a high state of polish by means of red earth and oil.
About his knee he wore a little bell that jingled pleasingly at

every step. From one shoulder hung a goat-skin cloak embroidered
with steel beads. A small package neatly done up in leaves

probably contained his lunch. He teetered along with a mincing up
and down step, every movement, and the expression of his face

displaying a fatuous self-satisfaction. When we looked back again
this youth had magically become two. Then appeared two women and

a white goat. All except the goat were dressed for visiting, with
long chains of beads, bracelets and anklets, and heavy ornaments

in the distended ear lobes. The manner people sprang apparently
out of the ground was very disconcerting. It was a good deal like

those fairy-story moving pictures where a wave of the wand
produces beautiful ladies. By half an hour we had acquired a long

retinue-young warriors, old men, women and innumerable children.
After we had passed, the new recruits stepped quietly from the

shadow of the jungle and fell in. Every one with nothing much to
do evidently made up his mind he might as well go to Meru now as

any other time.
Also we met a great number of people going in the other

direction. Women were bearing loads of yams. Chiefs' sons minced
along, their spears poised in their left hands at just the proper

angle, their bangles jingling, their right hands carried raised
in a most affected manner. Their social ease was remarkable,

especially in contrast with the awkwardness of the lower
poverty-stricken or menial castes. The latter drew one side to

let us pass, and stared. Our chiefs' sons, on the other hand,
stepped springingly and beamingly forward; spat carefully in

their hands (we did the same); shook hands all down the line:
exchanged a long-drawn "moo-o-ga!" with each of us; and departed

at the same springing rapid gait. The ordinary warriors greeted
us, but did not offer to shake hands, thank goodness! There were

a great many of them. Across the valleys and through the open
spaces the sun, as it struck down the trail, was always flashing

back from distant spears. Twice we met flocks of sheep being
moved from one point to another. Three or four herdsmen and

innumerable small boys seemed to be in charge. Occasionally we
met a real chief or headman of a village, distinguished by the

fact that he or a servant carried a small wooden stool. With
these dignitaries we always stopped to exchange friendly words.

These comprised the travelling public. The resident public also
showed itself quite in evidence. Once our retainers had become

sufficiently numerous to inspire confidence, the jungle people no
longer hid. On the contrary, they came out to the very edge of

the track to exchange greetings. They were very good-natured,
exceedingly well-formed, and quite jocular with our boys.

Especially did our suave and elegant Simba sparkle. This resident
public, called from its daily labours and duties, did not always

show as gaudy a make-up as did the dressed-up travelling public.
Banana leaves were popular wear, and seemed to us at once pretty

and fresh. To be sure some had rather withered away; but even
wool will shrink. We saw some grass skirts, like the

Sunday-school pictures.
At noon we stopped under a tree by a little stream for lunch.

Before long a dozen women were lined up in front of us staring at
Billy with all their might. She nodded and smiled at them.

Thereupon they sent one of their number away. The messenger
returned after a few moments carrying a bunch of the small eating

bananas which she laid at our feet. Billy fished some beads out
of her saddle bags, and presented them. Friendly relations having

been thus fully established, two or three of the women scurried
hastily away, to return a few moments later each with her small

child. To these infants they carefully and earnestlypointed out
Billy and her wonders, talking in a tongue unknown to us. The

admonition undoubtedly ran something like this:
"Now, my child, look well at this: for when you get to be a very

old person you will be able to look back at the day when with
your own eyes you beheld a white woman. See all the strange

things she wears-and HASN'T she a funny face?"
We offered these bung-eyed and totally naked youngsters various

bribes in the way of beads, the tinfoil from chocolate, and even
a small piece of the chocolate itself. Most of them howled and

hid their faces against their mothers. The mothers looked
scandalized, and hypocritically astounded, and mortified.

They made remarks, still in an unknown language, but which much
past experience enabled me to translate very readily:

"I don't know what has got into little Willie," was the drift of
it. "I have never known him to act this way before. Why, only

yesterday I was saying to his father that it really seemed as
though that child NEVER cried-"

It made me feel quite friendly and at home.
Now at last came two marvellous and magnificent personages before

whom the women and children drew back to a respectful distance.
These potentates squatted down and smiled at us engagingly.

Evidently this was a really important couple, so we called up
Simba, who knew the language, and had a talk.

They were old men, straight, and very tall, with the hawk-faced,
high-headed dignity of the true aristocrat. Their robes were

voluminous, of some short-haired skins, beautifully embroidered.
Around their arms were armlets of polished buffalo horn. They

wore most elaborate ear ornaments, and long cased marquise rings
extending well beyond the first joints of the fingers. Very fine

old gentlemen. They were quite unarmed.
After appropriate greetings, we learned that these were the chief

and his prime minister of a nearby village hidden in the jungle.
We exchanged polite phrases; then offered tobacco. This was

accepted. From the jungle came a youth carrying more bananas. We
indicated our pleasure. The old men arose with great dignity and

departed, sweeping the women and children before them.