post. One large native safari
composedexclusively of women were
transporting loads of trade goods for the Indian
trader. They
carried their burdens on their backs by means of a strap passing
over the top of the head; our own "tump line" method. The labour
seemed in no way to have dashed their spirits, for they grinned
at us, and joked
merrily with our boys. Along the way, every once
in a while, we came upon people squatted down behind small stocks
of sugarcane, yams, bananas, and the like. With these our boys
did a brisk trade. Little paths led
mysteriously into the
jungle.
Down them came more
savages to greet us. Everybody was most
friendly and
cheerful, thanks to Horne's personal influence. Two
years before this same lot had been
hostile. From every hidden
village came the headmen or chiefs. They all wanted to shake
hands-the ordinary citizen never dreamed of aspiring to that
honour-and they all spat carefully into their palms before they
did so. This all had to be done in passing; for ordinary village
headmen it was beneath Our Dignity to draw rein. Once only we
broke over this rule. That was in the case of an old fellow with
white hair who managed to get so tangled up in the shrubbery that
he could not get to us. He was so
frantic with disappointment
that we made an
exception and waited.
About three miles out, we lost one of our newly acquired totos.
Reason: an exasperated parent who had followed from Meru for the
purpose of reclaiming his
runaway offspring. The latter was
d
ragged off howling. Evidently he, like some of his civilized
cousins, had "run away to join the circus." As nearly as we could
get at it, the rest of the totos, as well as the nine additional
we picked up before we quitted the
jungle, had all come with
their parents' consent. In fact, we soon discovered that we could
buy any
amount of good sound totos, not house broke however, for
an average of half a rupee (16-1/2 cents)
apiece.
The road was very much up and down hill over the numerous ridges
that star-fish out from Mt. Kenia. We would climb down steep
trails from 200 to 800 feet (measured by aneroid), cross an
excellent mountain
stream of
crystallinedashing water, and climb
out again. The trails of course had no notion of easy grades. It
was very hard work, especially for men with loads; and it would
have been impossible on
account of the heat were it not for the
numerous
streams. On the slopes and in the bottoms were patches
of
magnificent forest; on the crests was the
jungle, and
occasionally an
outlook over
extended views. The birds and the
strange
tropical big-leaved trees were a
constant delight-exotic
and strange. Billy was in a heaven of joy, for her specialty in
Africa was plants, seeds and bulbs, for her California garden.
She had syces, gunbearers and tent boys all climbing, shaking
branches, and generally pawing about.
This idiosyncracy of Billy's
puzzled our boys hugely. At first
they tried telling her that everything was
poisonous; but when
that did not work, they resigned themselves to their fate. In
fact, some of the most
enterprising like Memba Sasa, Kitaru, and,
later, Kongoni used of their own
accord to hunt up and bring in
seeds and blossoms. They did not in the least understand what it
was for; and it used to
puzzle them hugely until out of sheer
pity for their
uneasiness, I implied that the Memsahib collected
"medicine." That was
rational, so the wrinkled brow of care was
smoothed. From this botanical trait, Billy got her native name of
"Beebee Kooletta"-"The Lady Who Says: Go Get That." For in
Africa every white man has a name by which he is known among the
native people. If you would get news of your friends, you must
know their local cognomens-their own white man names will not do
at all. For example, I was called either Bwana Machumwani or
Bwana N'goma. The former means merely Master Four-eyes, referring
to my glasses. The
precise meaning of the latter is a matter much
disputed between myself and Billy. An N'goma is a native dance,
consisting of drum poundings, chantings, and hoppings around.
Therefore I
translate myself (most appropriately) as the Master
who Makes Merry. On the other hand, Billy, with true
feminineindirectness, insists that it means "The Master who Shouts and
Howls." I leave it to any fairminded reader.
About the middle of the morning we met a Government
runner, a
proud youth, young, lithe, with many ornaments and bangles; his