the spell of clothes, in
solemn conclave
decided that the frock coat,
with the tall-top hat, should in future be the official uniform;
and the
swallow-tail coat with a white shirt front the evening dress in China.
I need hardly say that this action of the Peking Parliament
aroused
universal surprise and
indignation. How could the scholars and gentry
of the
interior, where foreign
tailors are unknown, be expected to dress
in frock coats at
formal ceremonies, or to attend public entertainments
in
swallow-tails? Public meetings were held to discuss the subject,
and the new style of dress was condemned as unsuitable. At the same time
it was thought by many that the present dresses of men and women
leave much room for
improvement. It should be mentioned
that as soon as it was known that the dress uniform was under discussion
in Parliament, the silk, hat and other trades guilds, imitating the habits
of the wide-world which always everywhere considers self first,
fearing that the contemplated change in dress might injuriously affect
their
respective interests, sent delegates to Peking to "lobby" the members
to "go slow" and not to introduce too
radical changes.
The result was that in
addition to the two forms of dress above mentioned,
two more patterns were authorized, one for man's ordinary wear
and the other for women, both following Chinese styles,
but all to be made of home-manufactured material. This was to soothe
the ruffled feelings of the manufacturers and traders,
for in purchasing a foreign suit some of the materials at least,
if not all, must be of foreign
origin or foreign make.
During a recent visit to Peking I protested against this novel fashion,
and submitted a
memorandum to President Yuan with a request
that it should be transmitted to Parliament. My
suggestion is that
the frock-coat and evening-dress
regulation should be optional,
and that the Chinese dress uniform as sketched by me in my
memorandumshould be adopted as an
alternative. I am in hopes that my
suggestionwill be favorably considered. The point I have taken
is that Chinese diplomats and others who go
abroad should,
in order to avoid
curiosity, and for the sake of uniformity,
adopt Western dress, and that those who are at home,
if they prefer the ugly change, should be at liberty to adopt it,
but that it should not be
compulsory on others who object
to
suffering from cold in winter, or to being
liable to sunstroke in summer.
I have taken this middle course in order to satisfy both sides;
for it would be difficult to induce Parliament to
abolish or alter
what has been so recently fixed by them. The Chinese dress,
as is well known all over the world, is superior to that worn
by
civilized people in the West, and the recent change favored by the Chinese
is deplored by most foreigners in China. The following paragraph,
written by a foreign merchant and published in one of the Shanghai papers,
expresses the opinion of almost all
intelligent foreigners on this subject:
"Some time back the world was jubilant over the news that among
the great
reforms adopted in China was the discarding of the Chinese tunic,
that great
typical national
costume. `They are indeed getting
civilized,'
said the
gossip; and one and all admired the
energy displayed
by the
resolute Young China in coming into line with the CIVILIZED world,
adopting even our
uncomfortable, anti-hygienic and anti-esthetic
costume.
"Foreign `fashioned'
tailor shops, hat stores, shoemakers, etc.,
sprang up all over the country. When I passed through Canton
in September last, I could not help noticing also that
those
typical streets lined with boat-shaped, high-soled shoes,
had been replaced by foreign-style boot and shoemakers.
"Undoubtedly the
reform was gaining ground and the Chinese
would have to be in the future depicted dressed up as a Caucasian.
"In my
simplicity I
sincerelyconfess I could not but deplore
the passing away of the century-old tunic, so esthetic, so comfortable,
so rich, so
typical of the race. In my heart I was sorry for the change,
as to my
conception it was not in the dress where the Chinese had
to seek
reform. . . ."
I agree with this
writer that it is not in the
domain of dress
that we Chinese should learn from the Western peoples.
There are many things in China which could be very well improved
but certainly not dress.
Chapter 12. American versus Chinese Civilization (Continued)
The question has often been asked "Which are the
civilized nations?"
And the answer has been, "All Europe and America." To the query,
"What about the nations in the East?" the answer has been made
that with the
exception of Japan, who has now become a great
civilized power,
the other nations are more or less
civilized. When the matter
is further pressed and it is asked, "What about China?" the general reply is,
"She is semi-
civilized," or in other words, not so
civilizedas the nations in the West.
Before pronouncing such an opinion justifiable, let us consider
the plain facts. I take it that
civilization inculcates culture,
refinement,
humane conduct, fair
dealing and just treatment.
Amiel says, "Civilization is first and
foremost a moral thing."
There is no doubt that the human race, especially in the West,
has improved
wonderfully within the last century. Many
inventions
and discoveries have been made, and men are now able to enjoy comforts
which could not have been obtained before.
From a material point of view we have certainly progressed,
but do the "
civilized" people in the West live longer
than the
so-called semi-
civilized races? Have they succeeded
in prolonging their lives? Are they happier than others?
I should like to hear their answers. Is it not a fact
that Americans are more
liable to catch cold than Asiatics;
with the least change of air, and with the slightest appearance of an epidemic
are they not more easily infected than Asiatics? If so, why?
With their
genius for
invention why have they not discovered means
to
safeguard themselves so that they can live longer on this earth?
Again, can Americans say that they are happier than the Chinese?
From personal
observation I have formed the opinion that the Chinese
are more
contented than Americans, and on the whole happier;
and certainly one meets more old people in China than in America.
Since the United States of America is rich, well governed,
and provided with more material comforts than China,
Americans, one would think, should be happier than we are, but are they?
Are there not many in their midst who are friendless and penurious?
In China no man is without friends, or if he is, it is his own fault.
"Virtue is never friendless," said Confucius, and, as society is constituted
in China, this is
literally true. If this is not so in America
I fear there is something wrong with that boasted
civilization,
and that their material triumphs over the
physical forces of nature have been
paid
dearly for by a loss of
insight into her
profound spiritualities.
Perhaps some will understand when I quote Lao Tsze's address to Confucius
on "Simplicity". "The chaff from winnowing will blind a man.
Mosquitoes will bite a man and keep him awake all night, and so it is
with all the talk of yours about
charity and duty to one's neighbor,
it drives one crazy. Sir,
strive to keep the world in its
original
simplicity-- why so much fuss? The wind blows as it listeth,
so let
virtue establish itself. The swan is white without a daily bath,
and the raven is black without dyeing itself. When the pond is dry
and the fishes are gasping for
breath it is of no use to
moisten them
with a little water or a little sprinkling. Compared to their
original
and simple condition in the pond and the rivers it is nothing."
Henry Ward Beecher says, "Wealth may not produce
civilization,
but
civilization produces money," and in my opinion while
wealth may be used
to
promote happiness and health it as often injures both.
Happiness is the product of liberality,
intelligence and service to others,
and the reflex of happiness is health. My
contention is that the people who
possess these good qualities in the greatest degree are the most
civilized.
Now
civilization, as mentioned in the
previous chapter,
was born in the East and travelled
westward. The law of nature is spiral,
and
inasmuch as Eastern
civilization taught the people of the West,
so Western
civilization, which is based upon principles native to the East,
will return to its
original source. No nation can now remain
shut up within itself without
intercourse with other nations;
the East and the West can no longer exist separate and apart.
The new facilities for
transportation and travel by land and water
bring all nations, European, American, Asiatic and African,
next door to each other, and when the art of
aviation is more advanced
and people travel in the air as
safely as they now cross oceans,
the relationships of nations will become still closer.
What effect will this have on mankind? The first effect will be,
I should say, greater
stability. As interests become common,
destructive combats will
vanish. All alike will be interested in peace.
It is a gratifying sign that within recent years the people of America
have taken a
prominent part in peace
movements, and have inaugurated
peace congresses, the members of which represent different sections