finally in a low broken range many miles away called the Ithanga
Hills. The country gave one the
impression of being clothed with
small trees; although here and there this growth gave space to
wide
grassy plains. Later we discovered that the forest was more
apparent than real. The small trees, even where
continuous, were
sparse enough to permit free walking in all directions, and open
enough to allow clear sight for a hundred yards or so.
Furthermore, the
shallow wide valleys between the hills were
almost
invariably treeless and grown to very high thick grass.
Thus the course of the Tana possessed advantages to such as we.
By following in general the course of the
stream we were always
certain of wood and water. The river itself was full of fish-not
to speak of hundreds of
crocodiles and hippopotamuses. The thick
river
jungle gave cover to such animals as the bushbuck, leopard,
the beautiful colobus, some of the tiny
antelope, waterbuck,
buffalo and rhinoceros. Among the thorn and acacia trees of the
hillsides one was certain of impalla, eland, diks-diks, and
giraffes. In the grass bottoms were lions, rhinoceroses, a half
dozen varieties of buck, and thousands and thousands of game
birds such as
guinea fowl and
grouse. On the plains fed zebra,
hartebeeste, wart-hog, ostriches, and several
species of the
smaller
antelope. As a sportsman's
paradise this region would be
hard to beat.
We were now afoot. The dreaded tsetse fly abounded here, and we
had sent our horses in via Fort Hall. F. had accompanied them,
and hoped to
rejoin us in a few days or weeks with tougher and
less
valuable mules. Pending his return we moved on leisurely,
camping long at one spot, marching short days, searching the
country far and near for the special trophies of which we stood
in need.
It was great fun. Generally we hunted each in his own direction
and according to his own ideas. The
jungle along the river, while
not the most prolific in trophies, was by all odds the most
interesting. It was very dense, very hot, and very shady. Often a
thorn
thicket would fling itself from the hills right across to
the water's edge,
absolutely and
hopelessly impenetrable save by
way of the rhinoceros tracks. Along these then we would slip,
bent double, very quietly and gingerly, keeping a sharp lookout
for the
rightful owners of the trail. Again we would
wander among
lofty trees through the tops of which the sun flickered on
festooned serpentlike vines. Every once in a while we managed a
glimpse of the
sullen oily river through the dense leaf
screen on
its banks. The water looked thick as syrup, of a
deadly menacing
green. Sometimes we saw a
loathsomecrocodile lying with his nose
just out of water, or heard the snorting blow of a hippopotamus
coming up for air. Then the
thicket forced us
inland again. We
stepped very slowly, very alertly, our ears cocked for the
faintest sound, our eyes roving. Generally, of course, the
creatures of the
jungle saw us first. We became aware of them by
a crash or a rustling or a
scamper. Then we stood stock listening
with all our ears for some sound distinguishing to the
species. Thus I
came to recognize the queer barking note of the bushbuck, for
example, and to realize how
profane and
vulgar that and the beautiful
creature, the impalla, can be when he forgets himself. As for the
rhinoceros, he does not care how much noise he makes, nor how
badly he scares you.
Personally, I liked very well to
circle out in the more open
country until about three o'clock, then to enter the river
jungleand work my way slowly back toward camp. At that time of day the
shadows were lengthening, the birds and animals were
beginning to
stir about. In the cooling
nether world of shadow we slipped
silently from
thicket to
thicket, from tree to tree; and the
jungle people fled from us, or
withdrew, or gazed
curiously, or
cursed us as their dispositions varied.
While thus returning one evening I saw my first colobus. He was
swinging rapidly from one tree to another, his long black and
white fur shining against the sun. I wanted him very much, and
promptly let drive at him with the 405 Winchester. I always
carried this heavier
weapon in the dense
jungle. Of course I