from a long safari, is to SIT IN A CHAIR and drink tea. For this
they pay exorbitantly at the Somali
so-called "hotels." It is a
strange sight. But then, I have seen cowboys off the range or
lumberjacks from the river do
equallyextravagant and foolish
things.
On the other hand they carry their loads well, they march
tremendously, they know their camp duties and they do them. Under
adverse circumstances they are
good-natured. I remember C. and I,
being
belated and lost in a driving rain. We wandered until
nearly
midnight. The four or five men with us were loaded heavily
with the meat and
trophy of a roan. Certainly they must have been
very tired; for only
occasionally could we permit them to lay
down their loads. Most of the time we were
actually" target="_blank" title="ad.事实上;实际上">
actually groping, over
boulders,
volcanic rocks, fallen trees and all sorts of
tribulation. The men took it as a huge joke, and at every pause
laughed consumedly.
In making up a safari one tries to mix in four or five tribes.
This prevents concerted action in case of trouble, for no one
tribe will help another. They vary both in tribal and individual
characteristics, of course. For example, the Kikuyus are docile
but mediocre
porters; the Kavirondos strong carriers but
turbulent and difficult to handle. You are very lucky if you
happen on a camp
jester, one of the sort that sings, shouts, or
jokes while on the march. He is probably not much as a
porter,
but he is worth his wages
nevertheless. He may or may not aspire
to his giddy
eminence. We had one droll-faced little Kavirondo
whose very expression made one laugh, and whose rueful remarks on
the harshness of his lot finally ended by being funny. His name
got to be a catchword in camp.
"Mualo! Mualo!" the men would cry, as they heaved their burdens
to their heads; and all day long their war cry would ring out,
"Mualo!" followed by shrieks of laughter.
Of the other type was Sulimani, a big, one-eyed Monumwezi, who
had a really keen wit coupled with an
earnest,
solemn manner.
This man was no buffoon, however; and he was a good
porter,
always at or near the head of the
procession. In the great jungle
south of Kenia we came upon Cuninghame. When the head of our
safari reached the spot Sulimani left the ranks and, his load
still aloft danced
solemnly in front of Cuninghame, chanting
something in a loud tone of voice. Then with a final deep
"Jambo!" to his old master he rejoined the safari. When the day
had stretched to
weariness and the men had fallen to a sullen
plodding, Sulimani's
vigorous song could always set the safari
sticks tapping the sides of the chop boxes.
He carried part of the tent, and the next best men were entrusted
with the cook
outfit and our personal effects. It was a point of
honour with these men to be the first in camp. The rear, the very
extreme and straggling rear, was brought up by
worthlessporters
with loads of cornmeal-and the weary askaris whose duty it was
to keep astern and herd the lot in.
XIV. A DAY ON THE ISIOLA
Early one morning-we were still on the Isiola-we set forth on
our horses to ride across the rolling, brush-grown plain. Our
intention was to proceed at right angles to our own little stream
until we had reached the forest growth of another, which we could
dimly make out eight or ten miles distant. Billy went with us, so
there were four a-horseback. Behind us trudged the gunbearers,
and the syces, and after them straggled a dozen or fifteen
porters.
The sun was just up, and the air was only tepid as yet. From
patches of high grass whirred and rocketed
grouse of two sorts.
They were so much like our own ruffed
grouse and
prairie chicken
that I could with no effort imagine myself once more a boy in the
coverts of the Middle West. Only before us we could see the
stripes of trotting zebra disappearing; and catch the glint of
light on the bayonets of the oryx. Two giraffes galumphed away to
the right. Little grass
antelope darted from clump to clump of
grass. Once we saw gerenuk-oh, far away in an impossible
distance. Of course we tried to stalk them; and as usual we
failed. The gerenuk we had come to look upon as our Lesser
Hoodoo.
The beast is a gazelle about as big as a black-tailed deer. His
peculiarity is his excessively long neck, a good deal on the