hippopotamus. One is impressed with the busyness of the world
surrounding him; every bird or beast, the
hunter and the hunted,
is the centre of many important affairs. The world swarms.
And then, some miles away a lion roars, the earth and air
vibrating to the sheer power of the sound. The world falls to a
blank dead silence. For a full minute every living creature of
the
jungle or of the veldt holds its
breath. Their lord has
spoken.
After dinner we sat in our
canvas chairs, smoking. The guard fire
in front of our tent had been lit. On the other side of it stood
one of our askaris leaning on his
musket. He and his three
companions, turn about, keep the flames bright against the
fiercer creatures.
After a time we grew
sleepy. I called Saa-sita and entrusted to
him my watch. On the
crystal of this I had pasted a small piece
of surgeon's
plaster. When the hour hand reached the surgeon's
plaster, he must wake us up. Saa-sita was a very conscientious
and careful man. One day I took some time hitching my pedometer
properly to his belt: I could not wear it
effectively myself
because I was on
horseback. At the end of the ten-hour march it
registered a mile and a
fraction. Saa-sita explained that he
wished to take
especial care of it, so he had wrapped it in a
cloth and carried it all day in his hand!
We turned in. As I reached over to
extinguish the
lantern I
issued my last command for the day.
"Watcha kalele, Saa-sita," I told the askari; at once he lifted
up his voice to repeat my words. "Watcha kalele!" Immediately
from the Responsible all over camp the word came back-from
gunbearers, from M'ganga, from tent boys-"kalele! kalele!
kalele!"
Thus commanded, the
boisterous fun, the croon of
intimate talk,
the
gently rising and falling tide of
melody fell to complete
silence. Only remained the crackling of the fire and the
innumerable voices of the
tropical night.
VIII. THE RIVER JUNGLE
We camped along this river for several weeks, poking indefinitely
and happily around the country in all directions to see what we
could see. Generally we went together, for neither B. nor myself
had been tried out as yet on dangerous game-those easy rhinos
hardly counted-and I think we both preferred to feel that we had
backing until we knew what our nerves were going to do with us.
Nevertheless,
occasionally, I would take Memba Sasa and go out
for a little purposeless
stroll a few miles up or down river.
Sometimes we skirted the
jungle, sometimes we held as near as
possible to the river's bank, sometimes we cut loose and rambled
through the dry, crackling scrub over the low
volcanic hills of
the arid country outside.
Nothing can equal the
intense interest of the most ordinary walk
in Africa. It is the only country I know of where a man is
thoroughly and
continuously" target="_blank" title="ad.连续(不断)地">
continuously alive. Often when riding
horsebackwith the dogs in my California home I have watched them in envy
of the keen, alert interest they took in every stone, stick, and
bush, in every sight, sound, and smell. With equal
frequency I
have expressed that envy, but as something unattainable to a
human being's more phlegmatic
make-up. In Africa one actually
rises to
continuous alertness. There are dozy moments-except you
curl up in a safe place for the PURPOSE of dozing; again just
like the dog! Every bush, every hollow, every high tuft of grass,
every deep shadow must be scrutinized for danger. It will not do
to pass
carelessly any possible lurking place. At the same time
the sense of
hearing must be on guard; so that no break of twig
or crash of bough can go unremarked. Rhinoceroses conceal
themselves most cannily, and have a
deceitful habit of leaping
from a nap into their swiftest
stride. Cobras and puff adders are
scarce, to be sure, but very
deadly. Lions will generally give