together by vines, made up the "deep impenetrable
jungle" of our
childhood imagining. Here were rustlings, sudden scurryings,
half-caught glimpses, once or twice a crash as some greater
animal made off. Here and there through the
thicket wandered well
beaten trails, wide, but low, so that to follow them one would
have to bend double. These were the paths of rhinoceroses. The
air smelt warm and moist and earthy, like the odour of a
greenhouse.
We skirted this
jungle until it gave way to let the plain down to
the river. Then, in an open grove of acacias, and fairly on the
river's bank, we pitched our tents.
These acacia trees were very noble big chaps, with many branches
and a thick shade. In their season they are
wonderfully blossomed
with white, with yellow, sometimes even with vivid red flowers.
Beneath them was only a small matter of ferns to clear away.
Before us the sodded bank rounded off ten feet the river itself.
At this point far up in its youth it was a friendly river. Its
noble width ran over shallows of yellow sand or of small pebbles.
Save for
unexpected deep holes one could wade across it anywhere.
Yet it was very wide, with still reaches of water, with islands
of
gigantic papyrus, with sand bars dividing the current, and
with always the vista for a greater or
lesser distance down
through the
jungle along its banks. From our
canvas chairs we
could look through on one side to the arid country, and on the
other to this
tropical wonderland.
Yes, at this point in its youth it was indeed a friendly river in
every sense of the word. There are three reasons,
ordinarily, why
one cannot bathe in the African rivers. In the first place, they
are nearly all disagreeably muddy; in the second place, cold
water in a
tropicalclimate causes
horrible congestions; in the
third place they swarm with crocodiles and hippos. But this river
was as yet unpolluted by the alluvial soil of the lower
countries; the sun on its shallows had warmed its waters almost
to blood heat; and the beasts found no
congenial haunts in these
clear shoals. Almost before our tents were up the men were
splashing. And always my
mental image of that river's beautiful
expanse must include round black heads floating like gourds where
the water ran smoothest.
Our tents stood all in a row facing the
stream, the great trees
at their backs. Down in the grove the men had pitched their
little white shelters. Happily they settled down to ease.
Settling down to ease, in the case of the African porter,
consists in discarding as many clothes as possible. While on the
march he wears everything he owns; whether from pride or a desire
to
simplifytransportation I am
unable to say. He is supplied by
his
employer with a blanket and
jersey. As supple
mentals he can
generally produce a half dozen white man's ill-assorted
garments:
an old shooting coat, a
ragged pair of khaki
breeches, a kitchen
tablecloth for a skirt, or something of the sort. If he can raise
an
overcoat he is happy, especially if it happen to be a long,
thick WINTER
overcoat. The possessor of such a
garment will wear
it conscientiously throughout the longest journey and during the
hottest noons. But when he relaxes in camp, he puts away all
these prideful possessions and turns out in the
savage simplicity
of his red blanket. Draped negligently, sometimes very
negligently, in what may be termed semi-toga fashion, he stalks
about or squats before his little fire in all the glory of a
regained
savagery. The
contrast of the red with his red
bronze or
black skin, the freedom and grace of his
movements, the upright
carriage of his fine figure, and the flickering
savagery playing
in his eyes are very effective.
Our men occupied their
leisure variously and happily. A great
deal of time they spent before their tiny fires roasting meat and
talking. This talk was almost
invariably of
specific personal
experiences. They bathed frequently and with pleasure. They
slept. Between times they fashioned
ingenious affairs of ornament
or use: bows and arrows, throwing clubs, snuff-boxes of the tips
of
antelope horns, bound prettily with bright wire,
wooden swords
beautifully carved in exact
imitation of the white man's service
weapon, and a hundred other such affairs. At this particular time
also they were much occupied in making sandals against the
thorns. These were flat soles of rawhide, the edges pounded to