Mr. Rose (after a pause). "It's your
absentee landlords that have
done the
mischief. I'd hang every one of them, if I had my way."
Mr. Shamrock. "Faith, they'd be
absent thin, sure enough!"
And at this everybody laughs, and the trouble is over for a brief
space, much to the
relief of Mrs. Shamrock, until her husband finds
himself, after a little,
sufficiently calm to repeat a Cockney
anecdote, which is received by Mr. Rose in resentful silence, it
being merely a
description of the common bat, an
unfortunate animal
that, according to Mr. Shamrock, "'as no 'ole to 'ide in, no 'ands
to 'old by, no 'orns to 'urt with, though Nature 'as given 'im 'ooks
be'ind to 'itch 'imself up by."
The last two noteworthy personages in our party are a dapper
Frenchman, who is in business at Manchester, and a portly Londoner,
both of whom are
seeing Ireland for the first time. The Frenchman
does not
grumble at the weather, for he says that in Manchester it
rains twice a day all the year round, save during the winter, when
it
commonly rains all day.
Sir James Paget, in an address on
recreation, defined its chief
element to be surprise. If that is true, the portly Londoner must
be exhilarated beyond words. But with him the
sensation does not
stop with surprise: it
speedily becomes
amazement, and then horror;
for he is of the
comparative type, and
therefore sees things done
and hears things said, on every hand, that are not said and done at
all in the same way in London. He sees people--ay, and policemen--
bicycling on footpaths and riding without lamps, and is horrified to
learn that they are seldom, if ever, prosecuted. He is shocked at
the cabins, and the rocks, and the
beggar children, and the lack of
trees; at the lack of logic, also, and the lack of shoes; at the
prevalence of the brogue; above all, at the presence of the pig in
the parlour. He is outraged at the weather, and he minds getting
wet the more because he hates Irish whisky. He keeps a little
notebook, and he can hardly wait for dinner to be over, he is so
anxious to send a
communication (probably signed 'Veritas') to the
London Times.
The multiplicity of rocks and the
absence of trees are indeed the
two most
striking features of the
landscape; and yet Boate says, 'In
ancient times as long as the land was in full possession of the
Irish themselves, all Ireland was very full of woods on every side,
as
evidently appeareth by the writings of Giraldus Cambrensis.' But
this was long ago,-
'Ere the
emerald gem of the
western world
Was set in the brow of a stranger.'
In the long wars with the English these forests were the favourite
refuge of the natives, and it was a common
saying that the Irish
could never be tamed while the leaves were upon the trees. Then
passages were cut through the woods, and the
policy of felling them,
as a military
measure, was begun and carried forward on a gigantic
scale in Elizabeth's reign.
At one of the cabins along the road they were making great
preparations, which we understood from having seen the same thing in
Lisdara. There are wee villages and
solitary cabins so far from
chapel that the
priests establish 'stations' for
confession" target="_blank" title="n.招供;认错;交待">
confession. A
certain house is selected, and all the old, infirm, and
feeble ones
come there to
confess and hear Mass. The
priest afterwards eats
breakfast with the family; and there is great pride in this
function, and great
rivalry in the
humble arrangements. Mrs.
Odevaine often lends a linen cloth and flowers to one of her
neighbours, she tells us; to another a knife and fork, or a silver
teapot; and so on. This cabin was at the foot of a long hill, and
the driver gave me
permission to walk; so Francesca and I slipped
down, I with a
parcel which chanced to have in it some small
purchases made at the last hotel. We asked if we might help a bit,
and give a little teapot of Belleek ware and a linen doily trimmed
with Irish lace. Both the articles were trumpery bits of souvenirs,