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know not; she was certainly not Celt, and certainly no Barney McCrea



of her day would have kissed her if she had spilled ever so many

pitchers of sweet buttermilk over the plain; so we took the railway,



and departed with delight for Limavady, where Thackeray, fresh from

his visit to Charles Lever, laid his poeticaltribute at the



stockingless feet of Miss Margaret of that town.

O'Cahan, whose chief seat was at Limavady, was the principal urraght



of O'Neill, and when one of the great clan was 'proclaimed' at

Tullaghogue it was the magnificentprivilege of the O'Cahan to toss



a shoe over his head. We slept at O'Cahan's Hotel, and--well, one

must sleep; and wherever we attend to that necessary function



without due preparation, we generally make a mistake in the

selection of the particular spot. Protestantism does not



necessarily mean cleanliness, although it may have natural

tendencies in that direction; and we find, to our surprise ( a



surprise rooted, probably, in bigotry), that Catholicism can be as

clean as a penny whistle, now and again. There were no special



privileges at O'Cahan's for maids, and Benella, therefore, had a

delightful evening in the coffee-room with a storm-bound commercial



traveller. As for Francesca and me, there was plenty to occupy us

in our regular letters to Ronald and Himself; and Salemina wrote



several sheets of thin paper to somebody,--no one in America,

either, for we saw her put on a penny stamp.



Our pleasant duties over, we looked into the cheerful glow of the

turf sods while I read aloud Thackeray's Peg of Limavady. He spells



the town with two d's, by the way, to insure its being rhymed

properly with Paddy and daddy.



'Riding from Coleraine

(Famed for lovely Kitty),



Came a Cockney bound

Unto Derry city;



Weary was his soul,

Shivering and sad he



Bumped along the road

Leads to Limavaddy.



. . . .

Limavaddy inn's



But a humble baithouse,

Where you may procure



Whisky and potatoes;

Landlord at the door



Gives a smiling welcome

To the shivering wights



Who to his hotel come.

Landlady within



Sits and knits a stocking,

With a wary foot



Baby's cradle rocking.

. . . .



Presently a maid

Enters with the liquor



(Half a pint of ale

Frothing in a beaker).



Gads! I didn't know

What my beating heart meant:



Hebe's self I thought

Entered the apartment.



As she came she smiled,

And the smile bewitching,



On my word and honour,

Lighted all the kitchen!



. . . .

This I do declare,



Happy is the laddy

Who the heart can share



Of Peg of Limavaddy.

Married if she were,



Blest would be the daddy

Of the children fair



Of Peg of Limavaddy.




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