silver pools glistening here and there in the turf cuttings, and
watch the
transparent vapour rising from the red-brown of the
purple-shadowed bog fields. Dinnis Rooney, half awake, leisurely,
silent, is moving among the stacks with his creel. How the missel
thrushes sing in the woods, and the
plaintive note of the curlew
gives the last touch of
mysterioustenderness to the scene. There
is a moist, rich
fragrance of meadowsweet and bog
myrtle in the air;
and how fresh and wild and verdant it is!
'For there's plenty to mind, sure, if on'y ye look to the grass
at your feet,
For 'tis thick wid the tussocks of
heather, an' blossoms and
herbs that smell sweet
If ye tread thim; an' maybe the white o' the bog-cotton waves
in the win',
Like the wool ye might shear off a night-moth, an' set an ould
fairy to spin;
Or wee frauns, each wan stuck 'twixt two leaves on a grand
little stem of its own,
Lettin' on 'twas a plum on a tree.'*
*Jane Barlow.
As for Lough Lein itself, who could speak its
loveliness, lying like
a
crystal mirror beneath the black Reeks of the McGillicuddy, where,
in the mountain fastnesses, lie spell-bound the
sleeping warriors
who, with their bridles and broadswords in hand, await but the word
to give Erin her own! When we glide along the surface of the lakes,
on some bright day after a heavy rain; when we look down through the
clear water on tiny submerged islets, with their grasses and drowned
daisies glancing up at us from the blue; when we moor the boat and
climb the hillsides, we are dazzled by the
luxuriant beauty of it
all. It hardly seems real--it is too green, too perfect, to be
believed; and one thinks of some fairy drop-scene, painted by
cunning-fingered elves and sprites, who might have a wee folk's way
of mixing roses and rainbows, dew-drenched greens and sun-warmed
yellows; showing the picture to you first all burnished, glittering
and
radiant, then 'veiled in mist and diamonded with showers.' We
climb, climb, up, up, into the heart of the leafy
loveliness;
peering down into dewy dingles, stopping now and again to watch one
of the
countless streams as it tinkles and gurgles down an emerald
ravine to join the lakes. The way is
strewn with lichens and
mosses; rich green hollies and arbutus surround us on every side;
the ivy hangs in sweet
disorder from the rocks; and when we reach
the innermost
recess of the glen we can find moist green jungles of
ferns and bracken, a very bending, curling forest of fronds:-
'The fairy's tall palm-tree, the heath bird's fresh nest,
And the couch the red deer deems the sweetest and best.'
Carrantual rears its crested head high above the other mountains,
and on its
summit Shon the Outlaw, footsore, weary, slept; sighing,
"For once, thank God, I am above all my enemies."
You must go to sweet Innisfallen, too, and you must not be prosaic
or
incredulous at the boatman's stories, or turn the 'bodthered ear
to them.' These are no ordinary hillsides: not only do the wee
folk troop through the frond forests
nightly, but great heroic
figures of
romance have stalked majestically along these mountain
summits. Every
waterfall foaming and
dashing from its rocky bed in
the glen has a legend in the toss and swirl of the water.
Can't you see the O'Sullivan, famous for fleetness of foot and
prowess in the chase, starting forth in the cool o' the morn to hunt
the red deer? His dogs sniff the
heather; a splendid stag bounds
across the path; swift as
lightning the dogs follow the scent across
moors and glens. Throughout the long day the
chieftain chases the
stag, until at
nightfall, weary and
thirsty, he loses the scent, and
blows a blast on his horn to call the dogs homeward.
And then he hears a voice: "O'Sullivan, turn back!"
He looks over his shoulder to behold the great Finn McCool, central
figure in centuries of
romance.
"Why do you dare chase my stag?" he asks.
"Because it is the finest man ever saw," answers the
chieftaincomposedly.
"You are a
valiant man," says the hero, pleased with the reply;
"and as you
thirst from the long chase, I will give you to drink."
So he crunches his giant heel into the rock, and forth burst the
waters, seething and roaring as they do to this day; "and may the
divil fly away wid me if I've spoke an unthrue word, ma'am!"