no less than the lack of knowledge,
forbade in him any forecast
of the possibilities of the life to come. He believed that if granted,
it would be an advance on the present -- an
accession of knowledge
if not an increase of happiness. He was satisfied that
whatever it gave,
and
whatever it
withheld, it would be good. In his
normal condition
this sufficed to him.
`La Saisiaz' appeared in the early summer of 1878, and with it
`The Two Poets of Croisic', which had been written immediately after it.
The various incidents of this poem are
strictlyhistorical; they lead the way
to a
characteristicutterance of Mr. Browning's
philosophy of life
to which I shall recur later.
In 1872 Mr. Browning had published a first
series of selections
from his works; it was to be followed by a second in 1880.
In a
preface to the earlier
volume, he indicates the plan
which he has followed in the choice and
arrangement of poems;
and some such
intention runs also through the second; since he declined
a
suggestion made to him for the
introduction or placing of a special poem,
on the ground of its not conforming to the end he had in view.
It is difficult, in the one case as in the other, to reconstruct
the imagined
personality to which his
preface refers; and his words
on the later occasion
pointed rather to that idea of a chord of feeling
which is raised by the
correspondence of the first and last poems
of the
respective groups. But either clue may be followed with interest.
Chapter 18
1878-1884
He revisits Italy; Asolo; Letters to Mrs. Fitz-Gerald -- Venice --
Favourite Alpine Retreats -- Mrs. Arthur Bronson -- Life in Venice --
A Tragedy at Saint-Pierre -- Mr. Cholmondeley -- Mr. Browning's
Patriotic Feeling; Extract from Letter to Mrs. Charles Skirrow --
`Dramatic Idyls' -- `Jocoseria' -- `Ferishtah's Fancies'.
The
catastrophe of La Saisiaz closed a
comprehensive chapter
in Mr. Browning's habits and experience. It impelled him finally
to break with the associations of the last seventeen autumns,
which he remembered more in their
tedious or
painful circumstances
than in the unexciting pleasure and renewed
physical health
which he had derived from them. He was weary of the ever-recurring effort
to
uproot himself from his home life, only to become stationary
in some more or less uninteresting northern spot. The always latent
desire for Italy
sprang up in him, and with it the often present
thought and wish to give his sister the opportunity of
seeing it.
Florence and Rome were not included in his
scheme; he knew them both too well;
but he hankered for Asolo and Venice. He determined,
though as usual
reluctantly, and not till the last moment,
that they should move southwards in the August of 1878.
Their route lay over the Spluegen; and having heard of a comfortable hotel
near the
summit of the Pass, they agreed to remain there
till the heat had
sufficiently abated to allow of the
descent into Lombardy.
The advantages of this first
arrangement exceeded their expectations.
It gave them
solitude without the sense of loneliness.
A little
stream of travellers passed
constantly over the mountain,
and they could shake hands with
acquaintances at night,
and know them gone in the morning. They dined at the table d'hote,
but took all other meals alone, and slept in a detached wing or `dependance'
of the hotel. Their daily walks sometimes carried them down to the Via Mala;
often to the top of the
ascent, where they could rest,
looking down into Italy; and would even be prolonged
over a period of five hours and an
extent of seventeen miles.
Now, as always, the mountain air stimulated Mr. Browning's
physical energy;
and on this occasion it also especially quickened his
imaginative powers.
He was preparing the first
series of `Dramatic Idylls'; and several of these,
including `Ivan Ivanovitch', were produced with such rapidity
that Miss Browning refused to
countenance a prolonged stay on the mountain,
unless he worked at a more
reasonable rate.
They did not
linger on their way to Asolo and Venice,
except for a night's rest on the Lake of Como and two days at Verona.
In their
successive journeys through Northern Italy they visited by degrees
all its
notable cities, and it would be easy to recall, in order and detail,
most of these
yearly expeditions. But the
account of them
would
chieflyresolve itself into a list of names and dates;
for Mr. Browning had seldom a new
impression to receive, even from localities
which he had not seen before. I know that he and his sister
were deeply struck by the deserted grandeurs of Ravenna;
and that it stirred in both of them a
memorablesensation to wander
as they did for a whole day through the pinewoods consecrated by Dante.
I am
nevertheless not sure that when they performed the
repeated round
of picture-galleries and palaces, they were not sometimes
simply paying their debt to opportunity, and as much for each other's sake
as for their own. Where all was Italy, there was little to gain or lose
in one
memorial of
greatness, one object of beauty, visited or left unseen.
But in Asolo, even in Venice, Mr. Browning was seeking something more:
the
remembrance of his own
actual and
poetic youth. How far he found it
in the former place we may infer from a letter to Mrs. Fitz-Gerald.
==
Sept. 28, 1878.
And from `Asolo', at last, dear friend! So can dreams come FALSE.
-- S., who has been
writing at the opposite side of the table,
has told you about our journey and adventures, such as they were:
but she cannot tell you the feelings with which I revisit this
-- to me --
memorable place after above forty years'
absence, --
such things have begun and ended with me in the interval!
It was TOO strange when we reached the ruined tower
on the hill-top
yesterday, and I said `Let me try if the echo still exists
which I discovered here,' (you can produce it from only ONE particular spot
on a
remainder of brickwork --) and
thereupon it answered me
plainly as ever,
after all the silence: for some children from the adjoining `podere',
happening to be outside, heard my voice and its result --
and began
trying to perform the feat --
calling `Yes, yes' -- all in vain:
so, perhaps, the
mighty secret will die with me! We shall probably stay here
a day or two longer, -- the air is so pure, the country so attractive:
but we must go soon to Venice, stay our allotted time there,
and then go
homeward: you will of course address letters to Venice,
not this place: it is a pleasure I promise myself that, on arriving
I shall certainly hear you speak in a letter which I count upon finding.
The old inn here, to which I would fain have betaken myself,
is gone -- levelled to the ground: I remember it was much damaged by
a recent
earthquake, and the cracks and chasms may have threatened a downfall.
This Stella d'Oro is, however, much such an unperverted `locanda'
as its
predecessor --
primitive indeed are the
arrangements
and unsophisticate the ways: but there is
cleanliness,
abundance of goodwill,
and the sweet Italian smile at every mistake: we get on excellently.
To be sure never was such a perfect fellow-traveller, for my purposes, as S.,
so that I have no subject of concern -- if things suit me they suit her --
and vice-versa. I daresay she will have told you how we
trudged together,
this morning to Possagno -- through a lovely country:
how we saw all the wonders -- and a wonder of detestability
is the paint-performance of the great man! -- and how, on our return,
we found the little town enjoying high market day, and its privilege
of roaring and screaming over a
bargain. It confuses me
altogether, --
but at Venice I may write more
comfortably. You will till then, Dear Friend,
remember me ever as yours affectionately,
Robert Browning.
==
If the tone of this does not express disappointment,
it has none of the
rapture which his last visit was to inspire.
The charm which forty years of
remembrance had cast around
the little city on the hill was dispelled for, at all events, the time being.
The hot weather and dust-covered
landscape, with the more than
primitiveaccommodation of which he spoke in a letter to another friend,
may have contributed something to this result.
At Venice the travellers fared better in some
essential respects.
A London
acquaintance, who passed them on their way to Italy,
had recommended a cool and quiet hotel there, the Albergo dell' Universo.
The house, Palazzo Brandolin-Rota, was
situated on the shady side
of the Grand Canal, just below the Accademia and the Suspension Bridge.
The open stretches of the Giudecca lay not far behind; and a scrap of garden
and a clean and open little street made pleasant the approach
from back and side. It accommodated few persons in
proportion to its size,
and fewer still took up their abode there; for it was managed by a lady
of good birth and fallen fortunes whose home and patrimony it had been;
and her husband, a
retired Austrian officer, and two
grown-up daughters
did not
lighten her task. Every year the fortunes sank lower;