in hand, which was the simplest sort of a Continental holiday. And

I am certain that my companions, near as they are to me, felt no
other trouble but the suppressed excitement of pleasurable

anticipation. The forms and the spirit of the land before their
eyes were their inheritance, not their conquest--which is a thing

precarious, and, therefore, the most precious, possessing you if
only by the fear of unworthiness rather than possessed by you.

Moreover, as we sat together in the same railway carriage, they
were looking forward to a voyage in space, whereas I felt more and

more plainly, that what I had started on was a journey in time,
into the past; a fearful enough prospect for the most consistent,

but to him who had not known how to preserve against his impulses
the order and continuity of his life--so that at times it presented

itself to his conscience as a series of betrayals--still more
dreadful.

I down here these thoughts so exclusively personal, to explain why
there was no room in my consciousness for the apprehension of a

European war. I don't mean to say that I ignored the possibility;
I simply did not think of it. And it made no difference; for if I

had thought of it, it could only have been in the lame and
inconclusive way of the common uninitiated mortals; and I am sure

that nothing short of intellectual certitude--obviously
unattainable by the man in the street--could have stayed me on that

journey which now that I had started on it seemed an irrevocable
thing, a necessity of my self-respect.

London, the London before the war, flaunting its enormous glare, as
of a monstrous conflagration up into the black sky--with its best

Venice-like aspect of rainy evenings, the wet asphalted streets
lying with the sheen of sleeping water in winding canals, and the

great houses of the city towering all dark, like empty palaces,
above the reflected lights of the glistening roadway.

Everything in the subdued incomplete night-life around the Mansion
House went on normally with its fascinating air of a dead

commercial city of sombre walls through which the inextinguishable
activity of its millions streamed East and West in a brilliant flow

of lighted vehicles.
In Liverpool Street, as usual too, through the double gates, a

continuous line of taxi-cabs glided down the inclined approach and
up again, like an endless chain of dredger-buckets, pouring in the

passengers, and dipping them out of the great railway station under
the inexorable pallid face of the clock telling off the diminishing

minutes of peace. It was the hour of the boat-trains to Holland,
to Hamburg, and there seemed to be no lack of people, fearless,

reckless, or ignorant, who wanted to go to these places. The
station was normallycrowded, and if there was a great flutter of

evening papers in the multitude of hands there were no signs of
extraordinary emotion on that multitude of faces. There was

nothing in them to distract me from the thought that it was
singularly appropriate that I should start from this station on the

retraced way of my existence. For this was the station at which,
thirty-seven years before, I arrived on my first visit to London.

Not the same building, but the same spot. At nineteen years of
age, after a period of probation and training I had imposed upon

myself as ordinary seaman on board a North Sea coaster, I had come
up from Lowestoft--my first long railway journey in England--to

"sign on" for an Antipodean voyage in a deep-water ship. Straight
from a railway carriage I had walked into the great city with

something of the feeling of a traveller penetrating into a vast and
unexplored wilderness. No explorer could have been more lonely. I

did not know a single soul of all these millions that all around me
peopled the mysterious distances of the streets. I cannot say I

was free from a little youthful awe, but at that age one's feelings
are simple. I was elated. I was pursuing a clear aim, I was

carrying out a deliberate plan of making out of myself, in the
first place, a seamanworthy of the service, good enough to work by

the side of the men with whom I was to live; and in the second
place, I had to justify my existence to myself, to redeem a tacit

moral pledge. Both these aims were to be attained by the same
effort. How simple seemed the problem of life then, on that hazy

day of early September in the year 1878, when I entered London for
the first time.

From that point of view--Youth and a straight-forward scheme of
conduct--it was certainly a year of grace. All the help I had to

get in touch with the world I was invading was a piece of paper not
much bigger than the palm of my hand--in which I held it--torn out

of a larger plan of London for the greater facility of reference.
It had been the object of careful study for some days past. The

fact that I could take a conveyance at the station never occurred
to my mind, no, not even when I got out into the street, and stood,

taking my anxious bearings, in the midst, so to speak, of twenty
thousand hansoms. A strange absence of mind or unconscious

conviction that one cannot approach an important moment of one's
life by means of a hired carriage? Yes, it would have been a

preposterous proceeding. And indeed I was to make an Australian
voyage and encircle the globe before ever entering a London hansom.

Another document, a cutting from a newspaper, containing the
address of an obscure shipping agent, was in my pocket. And I

needed not to take it out. That address was as if graven deep in
my brain. I muttered its words to myself as I walked on,

navigating the sea of London by the chart concealed in the palm of
my hand; for I had vowed to myself not to inquire my way from

anyone. Youth is the time of rash pledges. Had I taken a wrong
turning I would have been lost; and if faithful to my pledge I

might have remained lost for days, for weeks, have left perhaps my
bones to be discovered bleaching in some blind alley of the

Whitechapel district, as it had happened to lonely travellers lost
in the bush. But I walked on to my destination without hesitation

or mistake, showing there, for the first time, some of that faculty
to absorb and make my own the imaged topography of a chart, which

in later years was to help me in regions of intricatenavigation to
keep the ships entrusted to me off the ground. The place I was

bound to was not easy to find. It was one of those courts hidden
away from the charted and navigable streets, lost among the thick

growth of houses like a dark pool in the depths of a forest,
approached by an inconspicuous archway as if by secret path; a

Dickensian nook of London, that wonder city, the growth of which
bears no sign of intelligent design, but many traces of freakishly

sombre phantasy the Great Master knew so well how to bring out by
the magic of his understanding love. And the office I entered was

Dickensian too. The dust of the Waterloo year lay on the panes and
frames of its windows; early Georgian grime clung to its sombre

wainscoting.
It was one o'clock in the afternoon, but the day was gloomy. By

the light of a single gas-jet depending from the smoked ceiling I
saw an elderly man, in a long coat of black broadcloth. He had a

grey beard, a big nose, thick lips, and heavy shoulders. His curly
white hair and the general character of his head recalled vaguely a

burly apostle in the BAROCCO style of Italian art. Standing up at
a tall, shabby, slanting desk, his silver-rimmed spectacles pushed

up high on his forehead, he was eating a mutton-chop, which had
been just brought to him from some Dickensian eating-house round

the corner.
Without ceasing to eat he turned to me his florid, BAROCCO

apostle's face with an expression of inquiry.
I produced elaborately a series of vocal sounds which must have

borne sufficient resemblance to the phonetics of English speech,
for his face broke into a smile of comprehension almost at once.--

"Oh, it's you who wrote a letter to me the other day from Lowestoft
about getting a ship."

I had written to him from Lowestoft. I can't remember a single
word of that letter now. It was my very first composition in the

English language. And he had understood it, evidently, for he
spoke to the point at once, explaining that his business, mainly,

was to find good ships for young gentlemen who wanted to go to sea
as premium apprentices with a view of being trained for officers.

But he gathered that this was not my object. I did not desire to