their lives in a vain search for weather with which no fault may be
found, keeping themselves and their families in
constantmotion, like
floating seaweeds that never strike root, yielding compliance to every
current of news
concerning countries yet untried, believing that
everywhere,
anywhere, the sky is fairer and the grass grows greener
than where they happen to be. Before the Oregon and California
railroad was built, the
overland journey between these States across
the Siskiyou Mountains in the
old-fashionedemigrant wagon was a long
and
tedious one. Nevertheless, every season
dissatisfied climate-seekers,
too wet and too dry, might be seen plodding along through the
dust in the old " 49 style," making their way one half of them from
California to Oregon, the other half from Oregon to California. The
beautiful Sisson meadows at the base of Mount Shasta were a favorite
halfway resting place, where the weary cattle were turned out for a
few days to gather strength for better climates, and it was curious to
hear those
perpetual pioneers comparing notes and seeking information
around the campfires.
"Where are you from?" some Oregonian would ask.
"The Joaquin."
"It's dry there, ain't it?"
"Well, I should say so. No rain at all in summer and none to speak of
in winter, and I'm dried out. I just told my wife I was on the move
again, and I'm going to keep moving till I come to a country where it
rains once in a while, like it does in every reg'lar white man's
country; and that, I guess, will be Oregon, if the news be true."
"Yes, neighbor, you's heading in the right direction for rain," the
Oregonian would say. "Keep right on to Yamhill and you'll soon be
damp enough. It rains there more than twelve months in the year; at
least, no
saying but it will. I've just come from there, plumb
drownded out, and I told my wife to jump into the wagon and we should
start out and see if we couldn't find a dry day somewhere. Last fall
the hay was out and the wood was out, and the cabin leaked, and I made
up my mind to try California the first chance."
"Well, if you be a horned toad or coyote," the seeker of moisture
would reply, "then maybe you can stand it. Just keep right on by the
Alabama Settlement to Tulare and you can have my place on Big Dry
Creek and
welcome. You'll be drowned there
mighty seldom. The wagon
spokes and tires will
rattle and tell you when you come to it."
"All right,
partner, we'll swap square, you can have mine in Yamhill
and the rain thrown in. Last August a
painter sharp came along one
day
wanting to know the way to Willamette Falls, and I told him:
Young man, just wait a little and you'll find falls enough without
going to Oregon City after them. The whole dog-gone Noah's flood of a
country will be a fall and melt and float away some day.'" And more to
the same effect.
But no one need leave Oregon in search of fair weather. The wheat and
cattle region of eastern Oregon and Washington on the upper Columbia
plains is dry enough and dusty enough more than half the year. The
truth is, most of these wanderers enjoy the freedom of gypsy life and
seek not homes but camps. Having crossed the plains and reached the
ocean, they can find no farther west within reach of wagons, and are
therefore compelled now to go north and south between Mexico and
Alaska, always glad to find an excuse for moving, stopping a few
months or weeks here and there, the time being measured by the size of
the camp-meadow, conditions of the grass, game, and other indications.
Even their
so-called settlements of a year or two, when they take up
land and build cabins, are only another kind of camp, in no common
sense homes. Never a tree is planted, nor do they plant themselves,
but like good soldiers in time of war are ever ready to march. Their
journey of life is indeed a journey with very
matter-of-fact thorns in
the way, though not
whollywanting in
compensation.
One of the most
influential of the motives that brought the early
settlers to these shores, apart from that natural
instinct to scatter
and
multiply which urges even sober
salmon to climb the Rocky
Mountains, was their desire to find a country at once
fertile and
winterless, where their flocks and herds could find
pasture all the
year, thus doing away with the long and
tiresome period of haying and
feeding necessary in the eastern and old
western States and
Territories. Cheap land and good land there was in
abundance in
Kansas, Nebraska, Minnesota, and Iowa; but there the labor of
providing for animals of the farm was very great, and much of that
labor was
crowded together into a few summer months, while to keep
cool in summers and warm in the icy winters was well-nigh impossible
to poor farmers.
Along the coast and throughout the greater part of
western Oregon in
general, snow seldom falls on the
lowlands to a greater depth than a
few inches, and never lies long. Grass is green all winter. The
average temperature for the year in the Willamette Valley is about 52
degrees, the highest and lowest being about 100 degrees and 20
degrees, though
occasionally a much lower temperature is reached.
The average
rainfall is about fifty or fifty-five inches in the
Willamette Valley, and along the coast seventy-five inches, or even
more at some points--figures that bring many a
dreary night and day to
mind, however fine the effect on the great
evergreen woods and the
fields of the farmers. The rainy season begins in September or
October and lasts until April or May. Then the whole country is
solemnly soaked and poulticed with the gray, streaming clouds and
fogs, night and day, with
marvelousconstancy. Towards the beginning
and end of the season a good many bright days occur to break the
pouring gloom, but whole months of rain,
continuous, or nearly so, are
not at all rare. Astronomers beneath these Oregon skies would have a
dull time of it. Of all the year only about one fourth of the days
are clear, while three fourths have more or less of fogs, clouds, or
rain.
The fogs occur
mostly in the fall and spring. They are grand, far-reaching
affairs of two kinds, the black and the white, some of the
latter being very beautiful, and the
infinitedelicacy and tenderness
of their touch as they
linger to
caress the tall
evergreens is most
exquisite. On farms and highways and in the streets of towns, where
work has to be done, there is nothing
picturesque or
attractive in any
obvious way about the gray, serious-faced rainstorms. Mud abounds.
The rain seems
dismal and
heedless and gets in everybody's way. Every
face is turned from it, and it has but few friends who recognize its
boundless beneficence. But back in the untrodden woods where no axe
has been lifted, where a deep, rich
carpet of brown and golden mosses
covers all the ground like a
garment, pressing warmly about the feet
of the trees and rising in thick folds
softly and kindly over every
fallen trunk, leaving no spot naked or uncared-for, there the rain is
welcomed, and every drop that falls finds a place and use as sweet and
pure as itself. An
excursion into the woods when the rain
harvest is
at its
height is a noble pleasure, and may be
safely enjoyed at small
expense, though very few care to seek it. Shelter is easily found
beneath the great trees in some hollow out of the wind, and one need
carry but little
provision, none at all of a kind that a wetting would
spoil. The colors of the woods are then at their best, and the
mightyhosts of the forest, every
needle tingling in the blast, wave and sing
in
glorious harmony.
" T were worth ten years of
peaceful life,
one glance at this array."
The snow that falls in the
lowland woods is usually soft, and makes a
fine show coming through the trees in large, feathery tufts, loading
the branches of the firs and spruces and cedars and weighing them down
against the trunks until they look
slender and sharp as arrows, while
a strange, muffled silence prevails, giving a
peculiarsolemnity to
everything. But these
lowland snowstorms and their effects quickly
vanish; every
crystal melts in a day or two, the bent branches rise
again, and the rain resumes its sway.
While these
gracious rains are searching the roots of the
lowlands,
corresponding snows are busy along the
heights of the Cascade
Mountains. Month after month, day and night the heavens shed their
icy bloom in stormy, measureless
abundance, filling the grand upper
fountains of the rivers to last through the summer. Awful then is the
silence that presses down over the mountain forests. All the smaller
streams
vanish from sight, hushed and obliterated. Young groves of
spruce and pine are bowed down as by a gentle hand and put to rest,
not again to see the light or move leaf or limb until the grand
awakening of the
springtime, while the larger animals and most of the
birds seek food and shelter in the foothills on the borders of the
valleys and plains.