a few white spots on the highest ridges, where the depth from drifting
has been greatest, or where the rate of waste has been diminished by
specially
favorable conditions as to
exposure. Only the great
volcanic cones are truly snow-clad all the year, and these are not
numerous and make but a small
portion of the general
landscape.
As we approach Oregon from the coast in summer, no hint of snowy
mountains can be seen, and it is only after we have sailed into the
country by the Columbia, or climbed some one of the commanding
summits, that the great white peaks send us greeting and make telling
advertisements of themselves and of the country over which they rule.
So, also, in coming to Oregon from the east the country by no means
impresses one as being surpassingly
mountainous, the abode of peaks
and glaciers. Descending the spurs of the Rocky Mountains into the
basin of the Columbia, we see hot, hundred-mile plains, roughened here
the there by hills and ridges that look hazy and blue in the distance,
until we have pushed well to the
westward. Then one white point after
another comes into sight to
refresh the eye and the
imagination; but
they are yet a long way off, and have much to say only to those who
know them or others of their kind. How grand they are, though
insignificant-looking on the edge of the vast
landscape! What noble
woods they
nourish, and
emerald meadows and gardens! What springs and
streams and waterfalls sing about them and to what a
multitude of
happy creatures they give homes and food!
The
principal mountains of the range are Mounts Pitt, Scott, and
Thielson, Diamond Peak, the Three Sisters, Mounts Jefferson, Hood, St.
Helen's, Adams, Rainier, Aix, and Baker. Of these the seven first
named belong to Oregon, the others to Washington. They rise singly at
irregular distances from one another along the main axis of the range
or near it, with an
elevation of from about eight thousand to fourteen
thousand four hundred feet above the level of the sea. From few
points in the
valleys may more than three or four of them be seen, and
of the more distant ones of these only the tops appear. Therefore,
speaking generally, each of the
lowlandlandscapes of the State
contains only one grand snowy mountain.
The
heights back of Portland command one of the best general views of
the forests and also of the most famous of the great mountains both of
Oregon and Washington. Mount Hood is in full view, with the
summits
of Mounts Jefferson, St. Helen's, Adams, and Rainier in the distance.
The city of Portland is at our feet, covering a large area along both
banks of the Willamette, and, with its fine streets, schools,
churches, mills,
shipping, parks, and gardens, makes a telling picture
of busy, aspiring
civilization in the midst of the green
wilderness in
which it is planted. The river is displayed to fine
advantage in the
foreground of our main view,
sweeping in beautiful curves around rich,
leafy islands, its banks fringed with
willows.
A few miles beyond the Willamette flows the
renowned Columbia, and the
confluence of these two great rivers is at a point only about ten
miles below the city. Beyond the Columbia extends the
immense breadth
of the forest, one dim, black,
monotonous field with only the sky,
which one is glad to see is not forested, and the tops of the
majesticold volcanoes to give
diversity to the view. That sharp, white,
broad-based pyramid on the south side of the Columbia, a few degrees
to the south of east from where you stand, is the famous Mount Hood.
The distance to it in a straight line is about fifty miles. Its upper
slopes form the only bare ground, bare as to forests, in the
landscapein that direction. It is the pride of Oregonians, and when it is
visible is always
pointed out to strangers as the glory of the
country, the mountain of mountains. It is one of the grand
series of
extinct volcanoes extending from Lassen's Butte[31] to Mount Baker, a
distance of about six hundred miles, which once flamed like gigantic
watch-fires along the coast. Some of them have been active in recent
times, but no
considerableaddition to the bulk of Mount Hood has been
made for several centuries, as is shown by the
amount of glacial
denudation it has suffered. Its
summit has been ground to a point,
which gives it a rather thin, pinched appearance. It has a wide-flowing
base, however, and is fairly well pro
portioned. Though it is
eleven thousand feet high, it is too far off to make much show under
ordinary conditions in so
extensive a
landscape. Through a great part
of the summer it is
invisible on
account of smoke poured into the sky
from burning woods, logging camps, mills, etc., and in winter for
weeks at a time, or even months, it is in the clouds. Only in spring
and early summer and in what there may chance to be of bright weather
in winter is it or any of its
companions at all clear or telling.
From the Cascades on the Columbia it may be seen at a distance of
twenty miles or thereabouts, or from other points up and down the
river, and with the
magnificent foreground it is very
impressive. It
gives the
supreme touch of
grandeur to all the main Columbia views,
rising at every turn,
solitary,
majestic, awe-inspiring, the ruling
spirit of the
landscape. But, like mountains everywhere, it varies
greatly in
impressiveness and
apparentheight at different times and
seasons, not alone from differences as to the dimness or transparency
of the air. Clear, or arrayed in clouds, it changes both in size and
general expression. Now it looms up to an
immenseheight and seems to
draw near in
tremendousgrandeur and beauty,
holding the eyes of every
beholder in
devout and awful interest. Next year or next day, or even
in the same day, you return to the same point of view, perhaps to find
that the glory has
departed, as if the mountain had died and the poor
dull, shrunken mass of rocks and ice had lost all power to charm.
Never shall I forget my first
glorious view of Mount Hood one calm
evening in July, though I had seen it many times before this. I was
then sauntering with a friend across the new Willamette
bridge between
Portland and East Portland for the sake of the river views, which are
here very fine in the
tranquil summer weather. The scene on the water
was a
lively one. Boats of every
description were gliding, glinting,
drifting about at work or play, and we leaned over the rail from time
to time, contemplating the gay
throng. Several lines of ferry boats
were making regular trips at intervals of a few minutes, and river
steamers were coming and going from the
wharves, laden with all sorts
of
merchandise, raising long diverging swells that make all the light
pleasure craft bow and nod in
heartysalutation as they passed. The
crowd was being
constantly increased by new arrivals from both shores,
sailboats, rowboats, racing shells, rafts, were loaded with gayly
dressed people, and here and there some
adventurous man or boy might
be seen as a merry sailor on a single plank or spar,
apparently as
deep in
enjoyment as were any on the water. It seemed as if all the
town were coming to the river, renouncing the cares and toils of the
day, determined to take the evening
breeze into their pulses, and be
cool and
tranquil ere going to bed.
Absorbed in the happy scene, given up to
dreamy,
randomobservation of
what lay immediately before me, I was not
conscious of anything
occurring on the outer rim of the
landscape. Forest, mountain, and
sky were forgotten, when my
companion suddenly directed my attention
to the
eastward, shouting, "Oh, look! look!" in so loud and excited a
tone of voice that passers-by, saunterers like ourselves, were
startled and looked over the
bridge as if expecting to see some boat
upset. Looking across the forest, over which the
mellow light of the
sunset was streaming, I soon discovered the source of my friend's
excitement. There stood Mount Hood in all the glory of the alpenglow,
looming
immensely high,
beaming with
intelligence, and so
impressivethat one was overawed as if suddenly brought before some superior
being newly arrived from the sky.
The
atmosphere was somewhat hazy, but the mountain seemed neither near
nor far. Its glaciers flashed in the
divine light. The rugged,
storm-worn ridges between them and the snowfields of the
summit, these
perhaps might have been traced as far as they were in sight, and the
blending zones of color about the base. But so
profound was the
general
impression,
partialanalysis did not come into play. The
whole mountain appeared as one
gloriousmanifestation of
divine power,
enthusiastic and
benevolent, glowing like a
countenance with ineffable
repose and beauty, before which we could only gaze in
devout and lowly
admiration.
The far-famed Oregon forests cover all the
western section of the
State, the mountains as well as the
lowlands, with the
exception of a
few gravelly spots and open spaces in the central
portions of the
great
cultivatedvalleys. Beginning on the coast, where their outer
ranks are drenched and buffeted by wind-driven scud from the sea, they
press on in close,
majestic ranks over the coast mountains, across the
broad central
valleys, and over the Cascade Range, broken and halted