following stroke in quick,
passionatesuccession, as though the
mountain were being rent to its foundations and the fires of the old
volcano were breaking forth again.
Could we at once have begun to
descend the snow slopes leading to the
timber, we might have made good our escape, however dark and wild the
storm. As it was, we had first to make our way along a dangerous
ridge nearly a mile and a half long, flanked in many places by steep
ice-slopes at the head of the Whitney Glacier on one side and by
shattered precipices on the other. Apprehensive of this coming
darkness, I had taken the
precaution, when the storm began, to make
the most dangerous points clear to my mind, and to mark their
relations with
reference to the direction of the wind. When,
therefore, the darkness came on, and the bewildering drift, I felt
confident that we could force our way through it with no other
guidance. After passing the "Hot Springs" I halted in the lee of a
lava-block to let Jerome, who had fallen a little behind, come up.
Here he opened a council in which, under circumstances sufficiently
exciting but without evincing any
bewilderment, he maintained, in
opposition to my views, that it was impossible to proceed. He firmly
refused to make the
venture to find the camp, while I, aware of the
dangers that would
necessarily attend our efforts, and
conscious of
being the cause of his present peril,
decided not to leave him.
Our discussions ended, Jerome made a dash from the shelter of the
lava-block and began forcing his way back against the wind to the "Hot
Springs," wavering and struggling to
resist being carried away, as if
he were fording a rapid
stream. After
waiting and watching in vain
for some flaw in the storm that might be urged as a new
argument in
favor of attempting the
descent, I was compelled to follow. "Here,"
said Jerome, as we shivered in the midst of the hissing, sputtering
fumaroles, "we shall be safe from frost." "Yes," said I, "we can lie
in this mud and steam and sludge, warm at least on one side; but how
can we protect our lungs from the acid gases, and how, after our
clothing is saturated, shall we be able to reach camp without
freezing, even after the storm is over? We shall have to wait for
sunshine, and when will it come?"
The tempered area to which we had committed ourselves
extended over
about one fourth of an acre; but it was only about an eighth of an
inch in
thickness, for the scalding gas jets were shorn off close to
the ground by the oversweeping flood of
frosty wind. And how lavishly
the snow fell only mountaineers may know. The crisp
crystal flowers
seemed to touch one another and fairly to
thicken the
tremendous blast
that carried them. This was the bloom-time, the summer of the cloud,
and never before have I seen even a mountain cloud flowering so
profusely.
When the bloom of the Shasta chaparral is falling, the ground is
sometimes covered for hundreds of square miles to a depth of half an
inch. But the bloom of this
fertile snow cloud grew and matured and
fell to a depth of two feet in a few hours. Some
crystals landed with
their rays almost perfect, but most of them were worn and broken by
striking against one another, or by rolling on the ground. The touch
of these snow-flowers in calm weather is
infinitely gentle--glinting,
swaying, settling
silently in the dry mountain air, or massed in
flakes soft and downy. To lie out alone in the mountains of a still
night and be touched by the first of these small silent messengers
from the sky is a
memorable experience, and the
fineness of that touch
none will forget. But the storm-blast laden with crisp, sharp snow
seems to crush and
bruise and stupefy with its
multitude of stings,
and compels the bravest to turn and flee.
The snow fell without abatement until an hour or two after what seemed
to be the natural darkness of the night. Up to the time the storm
first broke on the
summit its development was
remarkably gentle.
There was a
deliberate growth of clouds, a weaving of translucent
tissue above, then the roar of the wind and the
thunder, and the
darkening
flight of snow. Its subsidence was not less sudden. The
clouds broke and vanished, not a
crystal was left in the sky, and the
stars shone out with pure and
tranquil radiance.
During the storm we lay on our backs so as to present as little
surface as possible to the wind, and to let the drift pass over us.
The mealy snow sifted into the folds of our clothing and in many
places reached the skin. We were glad at first to see the snow
packing about us, hoping it would deaden the force of the wind, but it
soon froze into a stiff, crusty heap as the temperature fell, rather
augmenting our novel misery.
When the heat became unendurable, on some spot where steam was
escaping through the sludge, we tried to stop it with snow and mud, or
shifted a little at a time by shoving with our heels; for to stand in
blank
exposure to the
fearful wind in our
frozen-and-broiled condition
seemed certain death. The acrid incrustations sublimed from the
escaping gases frequently gave way,
opening new vents to scald us;
and, fearing that if at any time the wind should fall,
carbonic acid,
which often formed a
considerableportion of the
gaseous exhalations
of volcanoes, might collect in sufficient quantities to cause sleep
and death, I warned Jerome against forgetting himself for a single
moment, even should his
sufferings admit of such a thing.
Accordingly, when during the long,
dreary watches of the night we
roused from a state of half-
consciousness, we called each other by
name in a frightened, startled way, each fearing the other might be
benumbed or dead. The ordinary sensations of cold give but a faint
conception of that which comes on after hard climbing with want of
food and sleep in such
exposure as this. Life is then seen to be a
fire, that now smoulders, now brightens, and may be easily quenched.
The weary hours wore away like dim half-forgotten years, so long and
eventful they seemed, though we did nothing but suffer. Still the
pain was not always of that bitter,
intense kind that precludes
thought and takes away all
capacity for
enjoyment. A sort of dreamy
stupor came on at times in which we fancied we saw dry, resinous logs
suitable for campfires, just as after going days without food men
fancy they see bread.
Frozen, blistered, famished, benumbed, our bodies seemed lost to us at
times--all dead but the eyes. For the duller and fainter we became
the clearer was our
vision, though only in
momentary glimpses. Then,
after the sky cleared, we gazed at the stars,
blessed immortals of
light, shining with
marvelousbrightness with long lance rays, near-looking
and new-looking, as if never seen before. Again they would
look familiar and
remind us of stargazing at home. Oftentimes
imagination coming into play would present
charming pictures of the
warm zone below, mingled with others near and far. Then the bitter
wind and the drift would break the blissful
vision and
dreary pains
cover us like clouds. "Are you
suffering much? Jerome would inquire
with
pitiful faintness. "Yes," I would say, striving to keep my voice
brave, "
frozen and burned; but never mind, Jerome, the night will wear
away at last, and tomorrow we go a-Maying, and what campfires we will
make, and what sunbaths we will take!"
The frost grew more and more
intense, and we became icy and covered
over with a crust of
frozen snow, as if we had lain cast away in the
drift all winter. In about thirteen hours--every hour like a year--day
began to dawn, but it was long ere the
summit's rocks were touched
by the sun. No clouds were
visible from where we lay, yet the morning
was dull and blue, and
bitterlyfrosty; and hour after hour passed by
while we
eagerly watched the pale light stealing down the ridge to the
hollow where we lay. But there was not a trace of that warm, flushing
sunrise
splendor we so long had hoped for.
As the time drew near to make an effort to reach camp, we became
concerned to know what strength was left us, and whether or no we
could walk; for we had lain flat all this time without once rising to
our feet. Mountaineers, however, always find in themselves a reserve
of power after great
exhaustion. It is a kind of second life,
available only in emergencies like this; and, having proved its
existence, I had no great fear that either of us would fail, though
one of my arms was already benumbed and hung powerless.
At length, after the temperature was somewhat mitigated on this