'The fire should have been here, at this side.' explained the
husband. 'Then one might have a writing-table in the middle -
books - and' (comprehensively) 'all. It would be quite coquettish
- CA SERAIT TOUT-A-FAIT COQUET.' And he looked about him as though
the improvements were already made. It was
plainly not the first
time that he had thus beautified his cabin in
imagination; and when
next he makes a bit, I should expect to see the writing-table in
the middle.
Madame had three birds in a cage. They were no great thing, she
explained. Fine birds were so dear. They had sought to get a
HOLLANDAIS last winter in Rouen (Rouen? thought I; and is this
whole
mansion, with its dogs and birds and smoking chimneys, so far
a traveller as that? and as
homely an object among the cliffs and
orchards of the Seine as on the green plains of Sambre?) - they had
sought to get a HOLLANDAIS last winter in Rouen; but these cost
fifteen francs
apiece - picture it - fifteen francs!
'POUR UN TOUT PETIT OISEAU - For quite a little bird,' added the
husband.
As I continued to admire, the apologetics died away, and the good
people began to brag of their barge, and their happy condition in
life, as if they had been Emperor and Empress of the Indies. It
was, in the Scots
phrase, a good
hearing, and put me in good humour
with the world. If people knew what an inspiriting thing it is to
hear a man boasting, so long as he boasts of what he really has, I
believe they would do it more
freely and with a better grace.
They began to ask about our
voyage. You should have seen how they
sympathised. They seemed half ready to give up their barge and
follow us. But these CANALETTI are only gypsies semi-domesticated.
The semi-domestication came out in rather a pretty form. Suddenly
Madam's brow darkened. 'CEPENDANT,' she began, and then stopped;
and then began again by asking me if I were single?
'Yes,' said I.
'And your friend who went by just now?'
He also was unmarried.
O then - all was well. She could not have wives left alone at
home; but since there were no wives in the question, we were doing
the best we could.
'To see about one in the world,' said the husband, 'IL N'Y A QUE CA
- there is nothing else worth while. A man, look you, who sticks
in his own village like a bear,' he went on, ' - very well, he sees
nothing. And then death is the end of all. And he has seen
nothing.'
Madame reminded her husband of an Englishman who had come up this
canal in a steamer.
'Perhaps Mr. Moens in the YTENE,' I suggested.
'That's it,' assented the husband. 'He had his wife and family
with him, and servants. He came
ashore at all the locks and asked
the name of the villages, whether from boatmen or lock-keepers; and
then he wrote, wrote them down. Oh, he wrote enormously! I
suppose it was a wager.'
A wager was a common enough
explanation for our own exploits, but
it seemed an original reason for
taking notes.
THE OISE IN FLOOD
BEFORE nine next morning the two canoes were installed on a light
country cart at Etreux: and we were soon following them along the
side of a pleasant
valley full of hop-gardens and poplars.
Agreeable villages lay here and there on the slope of the hill;
notably, Tupigny, with the hop-poles
hanging their garlands in the
very street, and the houses clustered with grapes. There was a
faint
enthusiasm on our passage; weavers put their heads to the
windows; children cried out in
ecstasy at sight of the two
'boaties' - BARGUETTES: and bloused pedestrians, who were
acquainted with our charioteer, jested with him on the nature of
his freight.
We had a
shower or two, but light and flying. The air was clean
and sweet among all these green fields and green things growing.
There was not a touch of autumn in the weather. And when, at
Vadencourt, we launched from a little lawn opposite a mill, the sun
broke forth and set all the leaves shining in the
valley of the
Oise.
The river was
swollen with the long rains. From Vadencourt all the
way to Origny, it ran with ever-quickening speed,
taking fresh
heart at each mile, and racing as though it already smelt the sea.
The water was yellow and
turbulent, swung with an angry eddy among