When Sir Walter Scott visited the Stones of Stennis, my
grandfather put in his pocket a hundred-foot line, which he
unfortunately lost.
`Some years afterwards,' he writes, `one of my
assistants
on a visit to the Stones of Stennis took shelter from a storm
in a
cottage close by the lake; and
seeing a box-measuring-
line in the bole or sole of the
cottage window, he asked the
woman where she got this
well-knownprofessional appendage.
She said: "O sir, ane of the bairns fand it lang syne at the
Stanes; and when
drawing it out we took
fright, and thinking
it had belanged to the fairies, we threw it into the bole, and
it has layen there ever since." '
This is for the one; the last shall be a
sketch by the
master hand of Scott himself:
`At the village of Stromness, on the Orkney main island,
called Pomona, lived, in 1814, an aged dame called Bessie
Millie, who helped out her
subsistence" target="_blank" title="n.生存;生计;生活费">
subsistence by selling favourable
winds to mariners. He was a venturous master of a
vessel who
left the roadstead of Stromness without paying his
offering to
propitiate Bessie Millie! Her fee was
extremely moderate,
being exactly
sixpence, for which she boiled her
kettle and
gave the bark the
advantage of her prayers, for she disclaimed
all unlawful acts. The wind thus petitioned for was sure, she
said, to arrive, though
occasionally the mariners had to wait
some time for it. The woman's
dwelling and appearance were
not unbecoming her pretensions. Her house, which was on the
brow of the steep hill on which Stromness is founded, was only
accessible by a
series of dirty and precipitous lanes, and for
exposure might have been the abode of Eolus himself, in whose
commodities the inhabitant dealt. She herself was, as she
told us, nearly one hundred years old, withered and dried up
like a mummy. A clay-coloured
kerchief, folded round her
neck, corresponded in colour to her corpse-like complexion.
Two light blue eyes that gleamed with a lustre like that of
insanity, an
utterance of
astonishingrapidity, a nose and
chin that almost met together, and a
ghastly expression of
cunning, gave her the effect of Hecate. Such was Bessie
Millie, to whom the mariners paid a sort of
tribute with a
feeling between jest and earnest.'
II
From about the
beginning of the century up to 1807 Robert
Stevenson was in
partnership with Thomas Smith. In the last-
named year the
partnership was dissolved; Thomas Smith
returning to his business, and my
grandfather becoming sole
engineer to the Board of Northern Lights.
I must try, by excerpts from his diary and
correspondence, to
convey to the reader some idea of the
ardency and thoroughness with which he threw himself into the
largest and least of his multifarious engagements in this
service. But first I must say a word or two upon the life of
light
keepers, and the temptations to which they are more
particularly exposed. The light
keeper occupies a position
apart among men. In sea-towers the complement has always been
three since the
deplorable business in the Eddystone, when one
keeper died, and the
survivor, signalling in vain for relief,
was compelled to live for days with the dead body. These
usually pass their time by the pleasant human
expedient of
quarrelling; and sometimes, I am
assured, not one of the three
is on
speaking terms with any other. On shore stations, which
on the Scottish coast are sometimes hardly less isolated, the
usual number is two, a
principal and an
assistant. The
principal is
dissatisfied with the
assistant, or perhaps the
assistant keeps pigeons, and the
principal wants the water
from the roof. Their wives and families are with them, living
cheek by jowl. The children quarrel; Jockie hits Jimsie in
the eye, and the mothers make haste to
mingle in the
dissension. Perhaps there is trouble about a broken dish;
perhaps Mrs. Assistant is more highly born than Mrs. Principal
and gives herself airs; and the men are drawn in and the
servants
presently follow. `Church privileges have been
denied the
keeper's and the
assistant's servants,' I read in
one case, and the eminently Scots periphrasis means neither
more nor less than ex
communication, `on
account of the
discordant and quarrelsome state of the families. The cause,
when inquired into, proves to be TITTLE-TATTLE on both sides.'
The tender comes round; the foremen and artificers go from
station to station; the
gossip flies through the whole
systemof the service, and the stories, disfigured and exaggerated,
return to their own
birthplace with the returning tender. The
English Board was
apparently shocked by the picture of these
dissensions. `When the Trinity House can,' I find my
grandfatherwriting at Beachy Head, in 1834, `they do not
appoint two
keepers, they
disagree so ill. A man who has a
family is assisted by his family; and in this way, to my
experience and present
observation, the business is very much
neglected. One
keeper is, in my view, a bad
system. This
day's visit to an English
lighthouse convinces me of this, as
the light
keeper was walking on a staff with the gout, and the
business performed by one of his daughters, a girl of thirteen
or fourteen years of age.' This man received a hundred a
year! It shows a different
reading of human nature, perhaps
typical of Scotland and England, that I find in my
grandfather's diary the following
pregnant entry: `THE
LIGHTKEEPERS, AGREEING ILL, KEEP ONE ANOTHER TO THEIR DUTY.'
But the Scottish
system was not alone founded on this cynical
opinion. The
dignity and the comfort of the northern
light
keeper were both attended to. He had a uniform to `raise
him in his own
estimation, and in that of his neighbour, which
is of
consequence to a person of trust. The
keepers,' my
grandfather goes on, in another place, `are attended to in all
the detail of
accommodation in the best style as shipmasters;
and this is believed to have a
sensible effect upon their
conduct, and to
regulate their general habits as members of
society.' He notes, with the same dip of ink, that `the
brasses were not clean, and the persons of the
keepers not
TRIG'; and thus we find him
writing to a
culprit: `I have to
complain that you are not
cleanly in your person, and that
your manner of speech is ungentle, and rather inclines to
rudeness. You must
therefore take a different view of your
duties as a light
keeper.' A high ideal for the service
appears in these expressions, and will be more amply
illustrated further on. But even the Scottish light
keeper was
frail. During the
unbrokensolitude of the winter months,
when
inspection is
scarce possible, it must seem a vain toil
to
polish the brass hand-rail of the stair, or to keep an
unrewarded vigil in the light-room; and the
keepers are
habitually tempted to the
beginnings of sloth, and must
unremittingly
resist. He who temporises with his conscience
is already lost. I must tell here an
anecdote that
illustrates the difficulties of
inspection. In the days of my
uncle David and my father there was a station which they
regarded with
jealousy. The two engineers compared notes and
were agreed. The tower was always clean, but seemed always to
bear traces of a hasty cleansing, as though the
keepers had
been suddenly forewarned. On
inquiry, it proved that such was
the case, and that a wandering fiddler was the unfailing
harbinger of the engineer. At last my father was storm-stayed
one Sunday in a port at the other side of the island. The
visit was quite overdue, and as he walked across upon the
Monday morning he promised himself that he should at last take
the
keepers unprepared. They were both
waiting for him in
uniform at the gate; the fiddler had been there on Saturday!
My
grandfather, as will appear from the following
extracts, was much a martinet, and had a habit of expressing