scattered
fringe of bluffs was un
submerged; and through all
the gaps the fog was pouring over, like an ocean, into the
blue clear sunny country on the east. There it was soon
lost; for it fell
instantly" target="_blank" title="ad.立即,立刻">
instantly into the bottom of the
valleys,
following the water-shed; and the
hilltops in that quarter
were still clear cut upon the eastern sky.
Through the Toll House gap and over the near ridges on the
other side, the
deluge was
immense. A spray of thin vapour
was thrown high above it, rising and falling, and blown into
fantastic shapes. The speed of its course was like a
mountain
torrent. Here and there a few treetops were
discovered and then whelmed again; and for one second, the
bough of a dead pine beckoned out of the spray like the arm
of a drowning man. But still the
imagination was
dissatisfied, still the ear waited for something more. Had
this indeed been water (as it seemed so, to the eye), with
what a
plunge of reverberating
thunder would it have rolled
upon its course, disembowelling mountains and deracinating
pines! And yet water it was, and sea-water at that - true
Pacific billows, only somewhat rarefied, rolling in mid air
among the
hilltops.
I climbed still higher, among the red rattling
gravel and
dwarf underwood of Mount Saint Helena, until I could look
right down upon Silverado, and admire the
favoured nook in
which it lay. The sunny plain of fog was several hundred
feet higher; behind the protecting spur a gigantic
accumulation of cottony vapour threatened, with every second,
to blow over and
submerge our
homestead; but the vortex
setting past the Toll House was too strong; and there lay our
little
platform, in the arms of the
deluge, but still
enjoying its
unbrokensunshine. About eleven, however, thin
spray came flying over the friendly buttress, and I began to
think the fog had hunted out its Jonah after all. But it was
the last effort. The wind veered while we were at dinner,
and began to blow squally from the mountain
summit; and by
half-past one, all that world of sea-fogs was utterly routed
and flying here and there into the south in little rags of
cloud. And instead of a lone sea-beach, we found ourselves
once more inhabiting a high mountainside, with the clear
green country far below us, and the light smoke of Calistoga
blowing in the air.
This was the great Russian
campaign for that season. Now and
then, in the early morning, a little white lakelet of fog
would be seen far down in Napa Valley; but the heights were
not again assailed, nor was the
surrounding world again shut
off from Silverado.
THE TOLL HOUSE
THE Toll House,
standing alone by the
wayside under nodding
pines, with its
streamlet and water-tank; its backwoods,
toll-bar, and well trodden croquet ground; the ostler
standing by the
stable door, chewing a straw; a
glimpse of
the Chinese cook in the back parts; and Mr. Hoddy in the bar,
gravely alert and serviceable, and
equallyanxious to lend or
borrow books; - dozed all day in the dusty
sunshine, more
than half asleep. There were no neighbours, except the
Hansons up the hill. The
traffic on the road was
infinitesimal; only, at rare
intervals, a couple in a waggon,
or a dusty farmer on a springboard, toiling over "the grade"
to that
metropolitanhamlet, Calistoga; and, at the fixed
hours, the passage of the stages.
The nearest building was the school-house, down the road; and
the school-ma'am boarded at the Toll House, walking
thence in
the morning to the little brown shanty, where she taught the
young ones of the district, and returning
thither pretty
weary in the afternoon. She had chosen this outlying
situation, I understood, for her health. Mr. Corwin was
consumptive; so was Rufe; so was Mr. Jennings, the engineer.
In short, the place was a kind of small Davos: consumptive
folk consorting on a
hilltop in the most
unbroken idleness.
Jennings never did anything that I could see, except now and
then to fish, and generally to sit about in the bar and the
verandah,
waiting for something to happen. Corwin and Rufe
did as little as possible; and if the school-ma'am, poor
lady, had to work pretty hard all morning, she subsided when
it was over into much the same dazed beatitude as all the
rest.
Her special corner was the parlour - a very
genteel room,
with Bible prints, a crayon
portrait of Mrs. Corwin in the
height of fashion, a few years ago, another of her son (Mr.
Corwin was not represented), a mirror, and a
selection of
dried grasses. A large book was laid religiously on the
table - "From Palace to Hovel," I believe, its name - full of
the raciest experiences in England. The author had mingled
freely with all classes, the
nobility particularly meeting
him with open arms; and I must say that traveller had ill
requited his
reception. His book, in short, was a capital
instance of the Penny Messalina school of
literature; and
there arose from it, in that cool parlour, in that silent,
wayside, mountain inn, a rank
atmosphere of gold and blood
and "Jenkins," and the "Mysteries of London," and sickening,
inverted snobbery, fit to knock you down. The mention of
this book reminds me of another and far racier picture of our
island life. The latter parts of ROCAMBOLE are surely too
sparingly consulted in the country which they
celebrate. No
man's education can be said to be complete, nor can he
pronounce the world yet emptied of
enjoyment, till he has
made the
acquaintance of "the Reverend Patterson,
director of
the Evangelical Society." To follow the evolutions of that
reverend gentleman, who goes through scenes in which even Mr.
Duffield would
hesitate to place a
bishop, is to rise to new
ideas. But, alas! there was no Patterson about the Toll
House. Only,
alongside of "From Palace to Hovel," a sixpenny
"Ouida" figured. So
literature, you see, was not
unrepresented.
The school-ma'am had friends to stay with her, other school-
ma'ams enjoying their holidays, quite a bevy of damsels.
They seemed never to go out, or not beyond the verandah, but
sat close in the little parlour, quietly talking or listening
to the wind among the trees. Sleep dwelt in the Toll House,
like a
fixture: summer sleep,
shallow, soft, and dreamless.
A
cuckoo-clock, a great rarity in such a place, hooted at
intervals about the echoing house; and Mr. Jenning would open
his eyes for a moment in the bar, and turn the leaf of a
newspaper, and the resting school-ma'ams in the parlour would
be recalled to the
consciousness of their inaction. Busy
Mrs. Corwin and her busy Chinaman might be heard indeed, in
the penetralia, pounding dough or rattling dishes; or perhaps
Rufe had called up some of the sleepers for a game of
croquet, and the hollow strokes of the
mallet sounded far
away among the woods: but with these exceptions, it was
sleep and
sunshine and dust, and the wind in the pine trees,
all day long.
A little before stage time, that castle of indolence awoke.
The ostler threw his straw away and set to his preparations.
Mr. Jennings rubbed his eyes; happy Mr. Jennings, the
something he had been
waiting for all day about to happen at
last! The boarders gathered in the verandah,
silently giving
ear, and gazing down the road with shaded eyes. And as yet
there was no sign for the senses, not a sound, not a tremor
of the mountain road. The birds, to whom the secret of the
hooting
cuckoo is unknown, must have set down to instinct
this premonitory
bustle.