And then the first of the two stages swooped upon the Toll
House with a roar and in a cloud of dust; and the shock had
not yet time to subside, before the second was
abreast of it.
Huge concerns they were, well-horsed and loaded, the men in
their shirt-sleeves, the women swathed in veils, the long
whip cracking like a
pistol; and as they charged upon that
slumbering hostelry, each shepherding a dust storm, the dead
place blossomed into life and talk and
clatter. This the
Toll House? - with its city
throng, its jostling shoulders,
its infinity of
instant business in the bar? The mind would
not receive it! The heartfelt
bustle of that hour is hardly
credible; the
thrill of the great
shower of letters from the
post-bag, the
childish hope and interest with which one gazed
in all these strangers' eyes. They paused there but to pass:
the blue-clad China-boy, the San Francisco magnate, the
mystery in the dust coat, the secret memoirs in tweed, the
ogling, well-shod lady with her troop of girls; they did but
flash and go; they were hull-down for us behind life's ocean,
and we but hailed their topsails on the line. Yet, out of
our great
solitude of four and twenty mountain hours, we
thrilled to their
momentary presence gauged and divined them,
loved and hated; and stood light-headed in that storm of
human
electricity. Yes, like Piccadilly
circus, this is also
one of life's crossing-places. Here I
beheld one man,
already famous or
infamous, a centre of
pistol-shots: and
another who, if not yet known to rumour, will fill a column
of the Sunday paper when he comes to hang - a burly, thick-
set, powerful Chinese desperado, six long bristles upon
either lip; redolent of
whiskey, playing cards, and
pistols;
swaggering in the bar with the lowest
assumption of the
lowest European manners; rapping out blackguard English oaths
in his canorous
oriental voice; and combining in one person
the depravities of two races and two civilizations. For all
his lust and
vigour, he seemed to look cold upon me from the
valley of the shadow of the
gallows. He imagined a vain
thing; and while he drained his cock-tail, Holbein's death
was at his elbow. Once, too, I fell in talk with another of
these flitting strangers - like the rest, in his shirt-
sleeves and all begrimed with dust - and the next minute we
were discussing Paris and London, theatres and wines. To
him, journeying from one human place to another, this was a
trifle; but to me! No, Mr. Lillie, I have not forgotten it.
And
presently the city-tide was at its flood and began to
ebb. Life runs in Piccadilly Circus, say, from nine to one,
and then, there also, ebbs into the small hours of the
echoing
policeman and the lamps and stars. But the Toll
House is far up
stream, and near its rural springs; the
bubble of the tide but touches it. Before you had yet
grasped your pleasure, the horses were put to, the loud whips
volleyed, and the tide was gone. North and south had the two
stages vanished, the
towering dust subsided in the woods; but
there was still an
interval before the flush had fallen on
your cheeks, before the ear became once more
contented with
the silence, or the seven sleepers of the Toll House dozed
back to their accustomed corners. Yet a little, and the
ostler would swing round the great
barrier across the road;
and in the golden evening, that
dreamy inn begin to trim its
lamps and spread the board for supper.
As I recall the place - the green dell below; the spires of
pine; the sun-warm, scented air; that gray, gabled inn, with
its faint stirrings of life amid the
slumber of the mountains
- I slowly awake to a sense of
admiration,
gratitude, and
almost love. A fine place, after all, for a wasted life to
doze away in - the
cuckoo clock hooting of its far home
country; the croquet
mallets,
eloquent of English lawns; the
stages daily bringing news of - the
turbulent world away
below there; and perhaps once in the summer, a salt fog
pouring
overhead with its tale of the Pacific.
A STARRY DRIVE