sunshine. The
sleepy hum of a threshing-machine filled the
neighbouring fields and hung about the
quaint street corners. A
little above, the church sits well back on its haunches against the
hillside - an attitude for a church, you know, that makes it look as
if it could be ever so much higher if it liked; and the trees grew
about it
thickly, so as to make a
density of shade in the churchyard.
A very quiet place it looks; and yet I saw many boards and posters
about threatening dire
punishment against those who broke the church
windows or defaced the
precinct, and
offering rewards for the
apprehension of those who had done the like already. It was fair day
in Great Missenden. There were three stalls set up, SUB JOVE, for
the sale of
pastry and cheap toys; and a great number of holiday
children thronged about the stalls and noisily invaded every corner
of the straggling village. They came round me by coveys, blowing
simultaneously upon penny trumpets as though they imagined I should
fall to pieces like the battlements of Jericho. I noticed one among
them who could make a wheel of himself like a London boy, and
seemingly enjoyed a grave pre-eminence upon the strength of the
accomplishment. By and by, however, the trumpets began to weary me,
and I went
indoors, leaving the fair, I fancy, at its height.
Night had fallen before I ventured forth again. It was pitch-dark in
the village street, and the darkness seemed only the greater for a
light here and there in an uncurtained window or from an open door.
Into one such window I was rude enough to peep, and saw within a
charming GENRE picture. In a room, all white wainscot and
crimsonwall-paper, a perfect gem of colour after the black, empty darkness
in which I had been groping, a pretty girl was telling a story, as
well as I could make out, to an
attentive child upon her knee, while
an old woman sat placidly dozing over the fire. You may be sure I
was not behindhand with a story for myself - a good old story after
the manner of G. P. R. James and the village melodramas, with a
wicked
squire, and poachers, and an
attorney, and a
virtuous young
man with a
genius for
mechanics, who should love, and protect, and
ultimately marry the girl in the
crimson room. Baudelaire has a few
dainty sentences on the fancies that we are inspired with when we
look through a window into other people's lives; and I think Dickens
has somewhere enlarged on the same text. The subject, at least, is
one that I am seldom weary of entertaining. I remember, night after
night, at Brussels, watching a good family sup together, make merry,
and
retire to rest; and night after night I waited to see the candles
lit, and the salad made, and the last salutations dutifully
exchanged, without any abatement of interest. Night after night I
found the scene rivet my attention and keep me awake in bed with all
manner of
quaintimaginations. Much of the pleasure of the ARABIAN
NIGHTS hinges upon this Asmodean interest; and we are not weary of
lifting other people's roofs, and going about behind the scenes of
life with the Caliph and the serviceable Giaffar. It is a salutary
exercise, besides; it is salutary to get out of ourselves and see
people living together in perfect unconsciousness of our existence,
as they will live when we are gone. If to-morrow the blow falls, and
the worst of our ill fears is realised, the girl will none the less
tell stories to the child on her lap in the
cottage at Great
Missenden, nor the good Belgians light their candle, and mix their
salad, and go
orderly to bed.
The next morning was sunny
overhead and damp underfoot, with a thrill
in the air like a reminiscence of frost. I went up into the sloping
garden behind the inn and smoked a pipe
pleasantly enough, to the
tune of my landlady's lamentations over
sundry cabbages and
cauliflowers that had been spoiled by caterpillars. She had been so
much pleased in the summer-time, she said, to see the garden all
hovered over by white butterflies. And now, look at the end of it!
She could nowise
reconcile this with her moral sense. And, indeed,
unless these butterflies are created with a side-look to the
composition of improving apologues, it is not
altogether easy, even
for people who have read Hegel and Dr. M'Cosh, to decide intelligibly
upon the issue raised. Then I fell into a long and abstruse
calculation with my
landlord; having for object to compare the
distance
driven by him during eight years' service on the box of the
Wendover coach with the girth of the round world itself. We tackled
the question most conscientiously, made all necessary
allowance for
Sundays and leap-years, and were just coming to a triumphant
conclusion of our labours when we were stayed by a small lacuna in my
information. I did not know the
circumference of the earth. The
landlord knew it, to be sure -
plainly he had made the same
calculation twice and once before, - but he wanted confidence in his
own figures, and from the moment I showed myself so poor a second
seemed to lose all interest in the result.
Wendover (which was my next stage) lies in the same
valley with Great
Missenden, but at the foot of it, where the hills trend off on either
hand like a coast-line, and a great
hemisphere of plain lies, like a
sea, before one, I went up a chalky road, until I had a good outlook
over the place. The vale, as it opened out into the plain, was
shallow, and a little bare, perhaps, but full of graceful
convolutions. From the level to which I have now attained the fields
were exposed before me like a map, and I could see all that
bustle of
autumn field-work which had been hid from me
yesterday behind the
hedgerows, or shown to me only for a moment as I followed the
footpath. Wendover lay well down in the midst, with mountains of
foliage about it. The great plain stretched away to the northward,
variegated near at hand with the
quaint pattern of the fields, but
growing ever more and more in
distinct, until it became a mere hurly-
burly of trees and bright crescents of river, and snatches of
slanting road, and finally melted into the ambiguous cloud-land over
the
horizon. The sky was an opal-grey, touched here and there with
blue, and with certain faint russets that looked as if they were
reflections of the colour of the autumnal woods below. I could hear
the ploughmen shouting to their horses, the uninterrupted carol of
larks
innumerableoverhead, and, from a field where the
shepherd was
marshalling his flock, a sweet tumultuous
tinkle of sheep-bells. All
these noises came to me very thin and
distinct in the clear air.
There was a wonderful
sentiment of distance and
atmosphere about the
day and the place.
I mounted the hill yet farther by a rough
staircase of chalky
footholds cut in the turf. The hills about Wendover and, as far as I
could see, all the hills in Buckinghamshire, wear a sort of hood of
beech
plantation; but in this particular case the hood had been
suffered to extend itself into something more like a cloak, and hung
down about the shoulders of the hill in wide folds, instead of lying
flatly along the
summit. The trees grew so close, and their boughs
were so matted together, that the whole wood looked as dense as a
bush of
heather. The
prevailing colour was a dull, smouldering red,
touched here and there with vivid yellow. But the autumn had scarce
advanced beyond the outworks; it was still almost summer in the heart
of the wood; and as soon as I had scrambled through the hedge, I
found myself in a dim green forest
atmosphere under eaves of virgin
foliage. In places where the wood had itself for a
background and
the trees were massed together
thickly, the colour became intensified
and almost gem-like: a perfect fire green, that seemed none the less
green for a few specks of autumn gold. None of the trees were of any
considerable age or
stature; but they grew well together, I have
said; and as the road turned and wound among them, they fell into
pleasant groupings and broke the light up
pleasantly. Sometimes
there would be a colonnade of slim, straight tree-stems with the
light
running down them as down the shafts of pillars, that looked as
if it ought to lead to something, and led only to a corner of sombre
and
intricatejungle. Sometimes a spray of
delicatefoliage would be
thrown out flat, the light lying
flatly along the top of it, so that
against a dark
background it seemed almost
luminous. There was a
great bush over the
thicket (for, indeed, it was more of a
thicketthan a wood); and the vague rumours that went among the tree-tops,
and the
occasional rustling of big birds or hares among the