Puget Sound
Washington Territory, recently admitted[22] into the Union as a State,
lies between
latitude 46 degrees and 49 degrees and
longitude 117
degrees and 125 degrees, forming the
northwest shoulder of the united
States. The
majestic range of the Cascade Mountains naturally divides
the State into two
distinct parts, called Eastern and Western
Washington, differing greatly from each other in almost every way, the
western section being less than half as large as the eastern, and,
with its
copious rains and deep
fertile soil, being clothed with
forests of evergreens, while the eastern section is dry and
mostlytreeless, though
fertile in many parts, and producing immense
quantities of wheat and hay. Few States are more
fertile and
productive in one way or another than Washington, or more
strikingly
varied in natural features or resources.
Within her borders every kind of soil and
climate may be found--the
densest woods and dryest plains, the smoothest levels and roughest
mountains. She is rich in square miles (some seventy thousand of
them), in coal,
timber, and iron, and in sheltered
inland waters that
render these resources advantageously
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accessible. She also is already
rich in busy workers, who work hard, though not always wisely,
hacking, burning, blasting their way deeper into the
wilderness,
beneath the sky, and beneath the ground. The wedges of development
are being
driven hard, and none of the obstacles or defenses of nature
can long
withstand the onset of this immeasurable industry.
Puget Sound, so
justly famous the world over for the surpassing size
and
excellence and
abundance of its
timber, is a long, many-fingered
arm of the sea reaching
southward from the head of the Strait of Juan
de Fuca into the heart of the grand forests of the
westernportion of
Washington, between the Cascade Range and the mountains of the coast.
It is less than a hundred miles in length, but so numerous are the
branches into which it divides, and so many its bays, harbors, and
islands, that its entire shoreline is said to
measure more than
eighteen hundred miles. Throughout its whole vast
extent ships move
in safety, and find shelter from every wind that blows, the entire
mountain-girt sea forming one grand unrivaled harbor and center for
commerce.
The forest trees press forward to the water around all the windings of
the shores in most
imposing array, as if they were courting their
fate, coming down from the mountains far and near to offer themselves
to the axe, thus making the place a perfect
paradise for the
lumberman. To the lover of nature the scene is enchanting. Water and
sky, mountain and forest, clad in
sunshine and clouds, are
composed in
landscapes
sublime in
magnitude, yet
exquisitely fine and fresh, and
full of glad,
rejoicing life. The shining waters stretch away into
the leafy
wilderness, now like the reaches of some
majestic river and
again expanding into broad roomy spaces like mountain lakes, their
farther edges fading gradually and blending with the pale blue of the
sky. The
wooded shores with an outer
fringe of flowering bushes sweep
onward in beautiful curves around bays, and capes, and jutting
promontories
innumerable; while the islands, with soft, waving
outlines,
lavishly adorned with
spruces and cedars,
thicken and enrich
the beauty of the waters; and the white spirit mountains looking down
from the sky keep watch and ward over all,
faithful and changeless as
the stars.
All the way from the Strait of Juan de Fuca up to Olympia, a hopeful
town
situated at the head of one of the farthest-reaching of the
fingers of the Sound, we are so completely
inland and surrounded by
mountains that it is hard to realize that we are sailing on a branch
of the salt sea. We are
constantly reminded of Lake Tahoe. There is
the same
clearness of the water in calm weather without any trace of
the ocean swell, the same
picturesque winding and
sculpture of the
shoreline and
flowery, leafy luxuriance; only here the trees are
taller and stand much closer together, and the
backgrounds are higher
and far more
extensive. Here, too, we find greater
variety amid the
marvelouswealth of islands and inlets, and also in the changing views
dependent on the weather. As we double cape after cape and round the
uncounted islands, new combinations come to view in endless
variety,
sufficient to fill and satisfy the lover of wild beauty through a
whole life.
Oftentimes in the stillest weather, when all the winds sleep and no
sign of storms is felt or seen, silky clouds form and settle over all
the land, leaving in sight only a
circle of water with indefinite
bounds like views in mid-ocean; then, the clouds lifting, some islet
will be presented
standing alone, with the topes of its trees dipping
out of sight in pearly gray
fringes; or, lifting higher, and perhaps
letting in a ray of
sunshine through some rift
overhead, the whole
island will be set free and brought forward in vivid
relief amid the
gloom, a
girdle of silver light of dazzling
brightness on the water
about its shores, then darkening again and vanishing back into the
general gloom. Thus island after island may be seen, singly or in
groups, coming and going from darkness to light like a scene of
enchantment, until at length the entire cloud ceiling is rolled away,
and the
colossal cone of Mount Rainier is seen in spotless white
looking down over the forests from a distance of sixty miles, but so
lofty and so
massive and clearly outlined as to
impress itself upon us
as being just back of a strip of woods only a mile or two in breadth.
For the
tourist sailing to Puget Sound from San Francisco there is but
little that is at all
striking in the
scenery within reach by the way
until the mouth of the Strait of Juan de Fuca is reached. The voyage
is about four days in length and the steamers keep within sight of the
coast, but the hills fronting the sea up to Oregon are
mostly bare and
uninviting, the
magnificent redwood forests stretching along this
portion of the California coast
seeming to keep well back, away from
the heavy winds, so that very little is seen of them; while there are
no deep inlets or lofty mountains
visible to break the regular
monotony. Along the coast of Oregon the woods of
spruce and fir come
down to the shore, kept fresh and
vigorous by
copious rains, and
become denser and taller to the
northward until, rounding Cape
Flattery, we enter the Strait of Fuca, where, sheltered from the ocean
gales, the forests begin to hint the
grandeur they
attain in Puget
Sound. Here the
scenery in general becomes
exceedingly interesting;
for now we have arrived at the grand mountain-walled
channel that
forms the entrance to that
marvelousnetwork of
inland waters that
extends along the
margin of the
continent to the
northward for a
thousand miles.
This
magnificent inlet was named for Juan de Fuca, who discovered it
in 1592 while seeking a mythical
strait,
supposed to exist somewhere
in the north, connecting the Atlantic and Pacific. It is about
seventy miles long, ten or twelve miles wide, and extends to the
eastward in a nearly straight line between the south end of Vancouver
Island and the Olympic Range of mountains on the ma
inland.
Cape Flattery, the
westerntermination of the Olympic Range, is
terribly
rugged and jagged, and in stormy weather is utterly
in
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accessible from the sea. Then the
ponderous rollers of the deep
Pacific
thunder amid its caverns and cliffs with the foam and uproar
of a thousand Yosemite waterfalls. The bones of many a noble ship lie
there, and many a sailor. It would seem
unlikely that any living
thing should seek rest in such a place, or find it. Nevertheless,
frail and
delicate flowers bloom there, flowers of both the land and
the sea; heavy, ungainly seals disport in the swelling waves, and find
grateful retreats back in the inmost bores of its storm-lashed
caverns; while in many a chink and hollow of the highest crags, not
visible from beneath, a great
variety of waterfowl make homes and rear
their young.
But not always are the inhabitants safe, even in such wave-defended
castles as these, for the Indians of the
neighboring shores venture
forth in the calmest summer weather in their frail canoes to spear the
seals in the narrow gorges amid the grinding, gurgling din of the
restless waters. At such times also the hunters make out to scale
many of the
apparently in
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accessible cliffs for the eggs and young of
the gulls and other water birds,
occasionally losing their lives in
these
perilous adventures, which give rise to many an exciting story
told around the campfires at night when the storms roar loudest.
Passing through the
strait, we have the Olympic Mountains close at
hand on the right, Vancouver Island on the left, and the snowy peak of
Mount Baker straight ahead in the distance. During calm weather, or
when the clouds are lifting and rolling off the mountains after a
storm, all these views are truly
magnificent. Mount Baker is one of
that wonderful
series of old volcanoes that once flamed along the
summits of the Sierras and Cascades from Lassen to Mount St. Elias.
Its fires are
sleeping now, and it is loaded with glaciers, streams of
ice having taken the place of streams of glowing lava. Vancouver
Island presents a
charmingvariety of hill and dale, open sunny spaces