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《金钱永不眠》走的不是休闲路线

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Gordon Gekko is back, with a whole new wardrobe for the power-hungry man. 'Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps,' opens Friday.


戈登•盖柯卷土重来，还为渴望权势的人带来了全套行头。《华尔街2：金钱永不眠》(Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps)于上周五公映。



In the 1987 movie 'Wall Street,' Mr. Gekko and his protégé Bud Fox set the standard for men's power fashions. Remember contrast-collar shirts and silk pocket squares? Men imitated the look (forgetting that the man who wore it went straight to prison). The movie also popularized French cuffs, suspenders and brighter shirts.


在1987年的《华尔街1》(Wall Street)中，盖柯和徒弟巴德•福克斯引领了功成名就之士的穿衣风尚。还记得那些领口撞色衬衣和丝质口袋方巾吗？这样的行头成了当时男士们争相效仿的对象（却忽略了如此装扮的那个家伙后来进了监狱的事实）。这部影片同时也让法式反褶袖、背带和亮色衬衣风行一时。



What the 'Sex and the City' television show was for women's fashion, 'Wall Street' was for menswear. Already, the fashion industry is preparing for the new movie's influence. Men's clothing makers from trendy shirt maker Jack Robie to Mohan's Custom Tailors in New York have sent out press releases suggesting how clients can 'get the look' from the movie.


《华尔街》之于男士服饰的影响力堪比《欲望都市》(Sex and the City)之于女装风尚。时尚界已经做好了随新片风尚而动的准备。从时尚衬衣品牌Jack Robie到纽约定制时装品牌Mohan's Custom Tailors等各男装大牌纷纷发布新闻稿，为顾客提供如何效仿片中角色打造自身形象的建议。



The power style seen in the new movie is more subtle than the brash suspenders of the old: It relies on the sleek, fitted look of custom suits-gray with a subtle pattern, or dark and single-breasted, with the trimmer shape seen in 'Mad Men.' The most powerful signals are sent by the accents, such as handmade shoes, luxury watches and other accessories. Some quirky touches that may have a wide impact: tailored vests, clear eyeglass frames, pocket-watch chains.


新片中的权势人士的穿衣风格要比老片中那些浮华的背带来得低调：更多的是时髦合体的定制西服──式样精良的灰色西服或深色的单排扣西服，跟《广告狂人》剧集(Mad Men)中的服装一样得体有型。最有冲击力的信号是通过一些细节来表述的，比如手工皮鞋、奢华表及其他配饰。主人公一些小怪癖的小细节也许也会产生深远的影响，比如：定制背心、透明镜框、怀表表链。



'A guy's watch is the equivalent of a Birkin bag,' says Ellen Mirojnick, the costumedesigner for both the original film and the new one.


担纲两部影片服装设计的米罗金尼克(Ellen Mirojnick)表示，手表之于男士，就如爱马仕柏金包(Birkin bag)之于女士一般重要。



It requires a deft hand to work the transition from 1987 to today. In the sequel, Michael Douglas returns as Mr. Gekko, who is now chastened by jail and tasked with finding his place in a new financial world. He re-emerges in 'Money Never Sleeps' just before a financial crash that looks a lot like the one that took down the likes of Lehman Brothers and Bear Stearns


要顺利实现1987版到新版的华丽变身，非要一双巧手不行。续集中，还是由迈克尔•道格拉斯(Michael Douglas)饰演盖柯，经过监狱洗礼后的他，要在新的金融世界中重新占据一席之地。在《金钱永不眠》中，他出场的时间正值一场金融危机爆发的前夕，正如雷曼兄弟(Lehman Brothers)和贝尔斯登(Bear Stearns)倒台之前的状况。



When the movie opens, Mr. Gekko leaves prison in a crumpled pinstriped suit jacket that only hints at what once was. A prison guard hands him his old cellphone, which is as big as a grown man's shoe.


影片开场时，盖柯出狱重见天日，身上穿着一件皱巴巴的细条纹西服，跟前一部形成了呼应。一位狱警把他的手机还给了他，那个手机跟成年人的鞋子一般大。



Ms. Mirojnick says she initially wanted to put Mr. Gekko in his old Burberry trench coat and a contrast-collar shirt, but the film's director, Oliver Stone, didn't want to bring back those old cues. The two of them worked closely on getting the details right for a new era.


米罗金尼克说，她最初是想让盖柯穿着他原先那件Burberry风衣和一条撞色领衬衣，不过导演奥利弗•斯通(Oliver Stone)不想再用这些旧元素了。他们俩一起构思出了属于新时代的服饰细节。



'I love the idea of representing history as it's occurring,' says Ms. Mirojnick. She says that when she took on the first 'Wall Street,' she did little research; instead, she made up or chose styles she thought would be eye-catching, like those contrast-collar shirts. Mr. Stone, she says, complained that his friends on Wall Street told him that they didn't really dress that way. 'I told him, 'It's a movie,' ' she recalls with a shrug.


米罗金尼克说，我喜欢创造历史。她说，为《华尔街1》设计服装时，她没怎么做调查，她所设计和选择的样式都是她认为能够吸引眼球的，比如撞色领衬衣。斯通向她抱怨，他那些华尔街的朋友告诉他其实他们可不是那么穿衣服的。回忆起这些的时候米罗金尼克耸了耸肩说道，我告诉他，这是一部电影。



Then out came the film, and young men started trying to dress like Mr. Gekko. 'I was like, wait a minute,' Ms. Mirojnick says, 'he's the villain.'


然后影片公映，年轻人开始效仿盖柯的衣着风格。米罗金尼克说，我当时想，三思啊，他可是个坏蛋啊。



For the new film, she studied current looks by visiting brokerage houses and financialboiler rooms. She observes that casual has consumed the work place. 'Some were casual Fridays. Some were no codes at all,' she says. 'The exhibition of wealth was in the accessories.'


在新片的服饰设计过程中，她去了证券经纪公司和电话交易所，研究当前的着装风尚。她发现，职场人士现在的衣着主要以休闲风格为主。她说，有些公司是周五可穿休闲装，有些公司根本就没有任何要求。财富是通过配饰得到体现的。



'Money Never Sleeps' does not go casual. It's full of custom suits and luxury accessories.


《金钱永不眠》走的不是休闲路线，它的主调是定制西服和奢华配饰。



Of course, luxury brands are prominent in the movie in part because of product-placement deals. 'Money Never Sleeps' is awash in goodies loaned by Cie. Financière Richemont SA, such as IWC and Vacheron Constantin watches and Dunhill accessories. Menswear maker Hickey Freeman provided shirts worn in the movie by some bankers. The companies have legions of publicists working to get the word out on which character wears Cartier and which dons Jaeger-LeCoultre. There's a ball scene, for which gowns were lent by Oscar de la Renta, Marchesa, Vera Wang, Gucci and Pucci.


当然，奢侈品牌在片中大行其道，部分原因在于植入式广告。片中出现了大量由各大品牌出借的豪华单品，比如，万国(IWC)手表、江诗丹顿(Vacheron Constantin)手表和登喜路(Dunhill)配饰，有些银行家穿的衬衣则是由男装品牌Hickey Freeman提供的。哪个角色戴了卡地亚(Cartier)配饰、哪个角色戴了积家(Jaeger-LeCoultre)表，相关公司都会有大批宣传人员对其进行极力的渲染。片中有一个舞会的场景，出场人物的礼服都是奥斯卡•德拉伦塔(Oscar de la Renta)、玛切萨(Marchesa)、王薇薇(Vera Wang)、古琦(Gucci)、璞琪(Pucci)等大牌友情赞助的。



But Ms. Mirojnick said the decisions on which brands to use were up to her. 'You have to identify the character and then choose the accessories, and not just lay on brands,' she says.


不过米罗金尼克表示，具体选择哪些品牌是由她来决定的。她说，你必须根据角色的定位来选择配饰，而不是仅仅看品牌。



As in the first 'Wall Street,' the film's clothes signal the characters' shifts-in morality as well as wealth-offering an updated code for good guys and bad guys and crooks-in-transition.


在《华尔街1》中，服饰是角色在道德和财富两方面的转变的信号──暗示着谁是好人谁是坏蛋谁正在沦为坏蛋。



Josh Brolin, who plays the wealthy villain Bretton James, wears a Vacheron Constantin watch. As Mr. Gekko makes a transition from jailbird to shark, he returns to wearing ties. Similarly, his suits make a transition from a plain blue suit that Ms. Morojnick calls his 'tonic' to three-piece killer suits. Indeed, in one key scene, Mr. Gekko actually goes to a tailor and gets fitted with new suits that are magnificently pressed and sleek. She refers to his transition as getting 'Gekko-ized.'


乔什•布洛林(Josh Brolin) 饰演的富豪反派人物布雷顿•詹姆斯(Bretton James)戴的是江诗丹顿表。盖柯从牢中囚重新成为业界风云人物之后，就又打起了领带，服装也从普通的蓝色西服──米罗金尼克称这是他的主色调──变为考究的三件套西服。片中有这么一个重要场景，描写的是盖柯去裁缝那里试穿新衣，那些衣服都极其地时髦有型。米罗金尼克称这个转变为"盖柯化"。



'He's very dressy, very luxurious, and very formal,' she says. Also daring: one of his suits is made with horizontal stripes. Before he is Gekko-ized, his shirts are white or gray. Later, they become bold and colorful. Fabrics come from famed makers, including Dormeuil and Holland & Sherry.


她说，他的服装非常考究，非常奢华，非常正式。而且很大胆：他有一套衣服是横条纹的。盖柯化之前，他的衬衣非白即灰，之后就用色大胆了。面料则是选择Dormeuil、Holland & Sherry等享有盛誉的顶级品牌。



What can a real man take from all this Hollywood wizardry? Ms. Mirojnick suggests that any man can benefit from thinking about 'the elements that define your character.' Clothes are clues. She sketched an upside-down triangle that illustrates the silhouette of a 'superhero' suit, which she says is 'high, tight, and broad.' Then she sketched an open-collar shirt to illustrate the look of a romantic man, whose clothes seem more open and accessible and come in prettier colors.


现实中的穿着如何借鉴这些好莱坞大手笔呢？米罗金尼克的建议是，任何人都可以借鉴那些可以传达你自身个性的元素。服饰就是传递给他人的一种信息。她随手画了一个倒三角形，说这是超级英雄服装的剪影，她认为超级英雄的服装必须高级、坚固、硬朗。然后她又画了一件开领衬衫来表达一位浪漫男士的着装风格，这种人的服装会显得更开放更可亲近，颜色也会更漂亮。



In the movie, Jake Moore, played by Shia LaBoeuf, wears his six custom suits-each of which cost about $6,500, according to Ms. Mirojnick-with a crisp white shirt that has a two-button collar and Hermès ties. These clothes, she says, are meant to convey that he's a seemingly invulnerable superhero type in the beginning.


米罗金尼克说，希安•拉博夫(Shia LaBoeuf)饰演的杰克•摩尔(Jake Moore)在片中拥有六套西服，每套售价都在6500美元左右，配一件双扣领的亮白色衬衣和众多的爱马仕(Herm□s)领带。她说，一开始让他穿着这些服装，传递的信息是：他是一个刀枪不入的超级英雄。



Yet Mr. Moore becomes more casual over the arc of the narrative, doffing his ties and unbuttoning his collars. He appears in a casual leather Belstaff jacket in one scene. I'll leave you to guess where his character is headed.


随着剧情的推进，摩尔的穿衣风格越来越休闲，领带没了，衬衣领子也松开了。其中一幕他更是穿着休闲的贝达弗(Belstaff)皮夹克亮相。他这个角色到底会何去何从呢，我还是先卖个关子吧。



Christina Binkley


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