When Dmitry Medvedev dined with the Obamas in July, the Russian president appeared both relaxed and powerful. He hit that elusive note by pairing his fine blazer, crisp buttoned shirt, and expensive-looking leather-soled shoes with dark, straight jeans.
月份俄罗斯总统梅德韦杰夫(Dmitry Medvedev)与美国总统奥巴马(Obama)夫妇共同进餐时,这位俄罗斯总统显得既休闲又强势。梅德韦杰夫穿着质地精良的夹克、挺括的纽扣衬衫、看上去价格不菲的皮鞋以及深色直筒牛仔裤。
Power jeans are
increasingly common in high-ranking business and political circles. Indeed, jeans are now a
legitimate part of the global power-dress lexicon, worn to
influential confabs where the wearers want to signal they're serious -- but not fussy -- and innovative.
在商界和政界高层圈子里,大人物穿仔裤亮相正变得越来越常见。实际上,牛仔裤如今成为了全球大人物着装词汇中的一个正当部分,在一些重要会议中时有亮相,穿着者希望以此表示他们既认真──但不挑剔──又具创新精神。
The look started with the young but has crossed into gray-haired circles. In
preparation for a meeting with the U.S. president of Swiss watchmaker IWC, Larry Seiden, a 56-year-old fine-watch
collector from San Jose, Calif., bought a pair of black Agave jeans from a high-end boutique. 'They tailored them for me and I have to tell you, I really love them,' he says. 'Now I'm thinking of getting another pair in blue denim.'
这一风格源自年轻人,但已经扩散到了中年阶层。为了准备与瑞士手表制造商万国(IWC)公司美国总裁的会面,来自加州圣何赛的56岁名表收藏者塞登(Larry Seiden)从一家精品服装店买了一条黑色的Agave牛仔裤。塞登说,裤子是为我订做的,我必须得说,我非常喜欢这条裤子。现在我在想去再做一条蓝色牛仔裤。
Jeans are recruiting new fans among even dressy
executives. 'I'm not really a jeans guy,' said Gilles Mendel, chief
executive and
designer of J. Mendel furs and evening wear, not long ago, sitting in his New York office. Still, he went with a snug set of dark blue Acme jeans under a black Dior blazer.
即便在衣着讲究的高管中,牛仔裤也不断获得新拥趸。J. Mendel皮毛和晚装公司的首席执行长兼设计师孟德尔(Gilles Mendel)不久前坐在他纽约办公室内说,我实际上并不那么热衷于牛仔裤。不过,他在黑色的迪奥(Dior)夹克下搭配了一条合身的深蓝色Acme牛仔裤。
Chosen well, jeans can suggest the wearer is
confident and modern. Traditionally cut blue jeans carry a whiff of the
laborer about them, so denim on a leader suggests a
willingness to roll up the sleeves and dig in. There's also something of the rebel in a pair of jeans. In the boardroom, that can read as
creative.
选择得当的话,牛仔裤可以传达穿着者自信摩登的特质。传统剪裁的蓝色牛仔裤带有一种劳动者的气息,因此领导者穿着仔裤可以表达一种愿意卷起袖子大干一场的意思。穿着牛仔裤还有一种叛逆的意味。在会议室,牛仔裤则透着创新的感觉。
But jeans must be carefully paired with a pressed shirt and good shoes to be elevated to business class. And some industries haven't (yet) become open to denim as power wear. Banks and accounting-firm boardrooms, for
instance, remain
decidedlywoolen. New York-based
careeradviser Jonscott Turco says jeans are generally a 'no-brainer' in the media, manufacturing and
creative industries, but not in
financial services and law firms.
不过,牛仔裤必须精心搭配熨烫平整的衬衫和上好的鞋子,才能提升到商务层次。一些行业的正式着装迄今仍未对牛仔裤敞开大门。例如,银行和会计师事务所的会议室仍然是毛料西装的天下。驻纽约的职业咨询师图尔科(Jonscott Turco)说,穿牛仔裤在媒体、制造业和创新行业中通常没什么大不了的,但在金融服务和律师事务所中就不是这样。
Power jeans may best be left to the
executives in mixed-rank groups. Being a
junior person wearing jeans in a room full of pinstripes could spell 'youthful blunder.' Perhaps the best rule is that of the high-priced boutique: If you have to ask, you can't afford to wear them.
展示权威的牛仔裤最好还是留给等级不那么分明的机构的高管去穿。在所有人都穿着细条纹西装的场合,身为下级却穿着牛仔裤等于是犯了"年轻的错误"。或许最佳法则是高价精品店的规则:如果必须询问能不能穿,那就是不应该穿(如果不得不询问价格,那你就买不起)。
It's also possible to go awry with the wrong jeans in the right place. Barack Obama, whose wife and children have been heralded as fashion icons, was ridiculed for wearing dorky 'dad jeans' (baggy and high-rise) to pitch at an All-Star game. When Tony Blair wore jeans to meet George Bush two years ago, the British prime
minister was criticized for his pants' snug fit.
此外,也有可能在正确的地点穿着错误的牛仔裤。奥巴马的妻子孩子一直被视为时尚标志,但他本人却因为穿着过时的"老爸裤"(松松垮垮的高腰牛仔裤)为全美职业棒球大联盟全明星赛开球而遭奚落。两年前,当时的英国首相布莱尔(Tony Blair)穿着仔裤会见美国总统布什(George Bush),因为仔裤过于贴身而遭到批评。
Few items of clothing speak as loudly, to the
positive or
negative, as a pair of jeans. As with tuxedos and Hawaiian shirts, wear them right (on the latter, only to a luau if you're a mainlander), or not at all.
少有什么服装能像牛仔裤那样富有表现力,不管是正面或是负面。就跟穿燕尾服和夏威夷衬衫一样(如果你不是夏威夷人,那么夏威夷衬衫只适合参加夏威夷式宴会),穿牛仔裤就得穿对,要么就干脆别穿。
To wit, fit is as
essential for jeans as for tailored slacks. Eric Jennings, Saks Fifth Avenue men's fashion
director, suggests that men keep their
executive jeans 'dark and straight.' And never dress as if the jeans had been switched out from
formal suit pants at the last minute: No fancy French-cuffed shirts with jeans, he advises.
也就是说,合身是牛仔裤的根本要素,就像定做的西裤一样。精品百货店萨克斯第五大道(Saks Fifth Avenue)的男装时尚总监杰宁斯(Eric Jennings)建议,如果要穿牛仔裤参加商务场合,男人应当穿着深色的直筒牛仔裤。他建议说,千万不要显得好像最后一刻才脱下正式的套装西裤换上牛仔裤:不要用配西裤的花哨法式袖口衬衫搭配牛仔裤。
In fact, getting power jeans right involves lots of no's. No distressed jeans at work. No metal studs. No acid washes. No
lavishembroidery. No boot cut. No skinny. No pedal pushers, shorts or cutoffs. No baggy high-rise. No super-low-rise. No holes. And no fussy ironing.
实际上,将显示权威的仔裤穿对还有诸多忌讳。不要在工作时穿做旧的洞洞牛仔裤。夸张的金属配饰、水洗磨白、华丽的绣花、喇叭裤、超瘦牛仔裤、七分裤、热裤或是半截裤、松垮的高腰、超低腰、破洞,这些全都是禁忌。也不要刻意熨烫。
From their 19th-century origins until the 1950s, jeans were
mainly work wear. Levi's
historian Lynn Downey says denim was demonized in the '50s with wearers like James Dean and Marlon Brando. Nothing could have been better for sales. 'Denim was code for rebellion,' she says. 'So every young boy wanted to wear it.'
从十九世纪诞生到二十世纪五十年代,牛仔裤主要被用作工作装。莲恩·道尼(Lynn Downey)研究李维斯(Levi's)的历史,她说,上世纪五十年代詹姆斯·迪恩(James Dean)和马龙·白兰度(Marlon Brando)赋予了牛仔裤魔力。牛仔裤此后以无可匹敌之势热卖。道尼说,牛仔裤就是反叛的标志,因此每个男孩都想穿着它。
We have Steve Jobs to thank for today's power jeans. His uniform of Levi's 501s and a black turtleneck was synonymous with
innovation in the '90s; now, in the tech world, dressy pants can be viewed with
suspicion. 'When someone shows up to an
interview or meeting in anything other than jeans, it shows inexperience and a lack of confidence,' says Andrew Dumont, vice president of marketing for text-messaging company Tatango.
今天牛仔裤成为大人物的新宠还要感谢苹果公司(Apple)首席执行长
乔布斯(Steve Jobs)。他那身李维斯501牛仔裤配黑色高领套头衫的经典着装在上世纪九十年代就是创新的同义词;如今在科技领域,穿着西裤会引来怀疑的目光。文本信息公司Tatango负责营销的副总裁杜蒙特(Andrew Dumont)说,(在科技行业)如果一个人接受采访或参加会议时穿的不是牛仔裤,就会显得不够老练和缺乏自信。
Little wonder that the folks at Levi's are reverential toward Apple's
founder. Steve Jobs, says You Nguyen, a Levi's
executive in
charge of women's merchandising and design, 'is the Marlon Brando of his time.'
难怪李维斯那帮人对
乔布斯充满敬意。李维斯负责女装营销和设计的管理人士You Nguyen说,
乔布斯就是他那个时代的马龙·白兰度。