An SAT tutoring
session fitted Tim Levin into the bespoke boom.
一次学术能力评估测试(SAT)补习课让从事培训辅导行业的蒂姆•莱文(Tim Levin)加入了定制(bespoke)大潮。
Studying
vocabulary flashcards with a student, Mr. Levin came across 'bespoke,' a
vaguely familiar word. 'I had heard about it
previously in terms of suits and shirts, the English word,' Mr. Levin recalled of the 2005
session at his tutoring business.
那是2005年的一次辅导课,莱文通过抽认卡教一个学生学习词汇,他抽到了"bespoke",一个依稀有点印象的词。莱文回忆起那次课时说,"之前我听说过那个英文词,是说西装和衬衫的。"
He and the student looked it up. It 'meant customized in general, made to order,' he says. 'I thought, 'This is perfect.' ' And thus Tim Levin Tutoring was renamed Bespoke Education, joining what Mr. Levin quickly found was a barrage of bespoke businesses.
莱文和他的学生查阅了词典。他说,"这个词的意思是客制化、订做,当时我想,'这个词太棒了。'"于是蒂姆•莱文辅导班(Tim Levin Tutoring)更名为定制教育(Bespoke Education),加入了"定制"行业。莱文很快发现"定制"行业蕴藏无限商机。
Bespoke, once a term
narrowly used for made-to-order suits from tailors such as those on London's Savile Row, has gone into mass production.
"定制"这个词一度仅用于诸如伦敦萨维尔街(Savile Row)上那些裁缝店的订做西装,而如今已经开始被大规模使用。
In the New York City area, there are two dozen 'bespoke' businesses, including Bespoke Barber Shop, Bespoke Books, Bespoke Surgical and at least one shop simply called 'Bespoke.'
在纽约市区有24家"定制"公司,包括定制理发店(Bespoke Barber Shop)、定制书店(Bespoke Books)、定制外科(Bespoke Surgical)和至少一家直接命名为"定制"的店铺。
A company in the U.K. promises 'bespoke'
cardboard boxes, delivered in two
working days. 'Bespoke' salads -- ingredients of the diner's choice -- are all the rage in London. U.S. executives
sprinkle conversation with talk of 'bespoke deals.'
英国的一家公司承诺提供"定制"纸板箱,在两个工作日内送货上门。"定制"沙拉──由用餐者自己选择的食材制成──在伦敦风靡一时。美国的公司高管们在谈话时常会提到"定制交易"。
Some language purists aren't happy with this co-opting. Neither are London's original bespoke artisans.
一些语言纯化论者对这个词的这种大规模衍化有些反感。伦敦那些传承传统的定制工匠们对此也不大乐意。
'We don't like it when we have all sorts of
so-called bespoke items that don't go
anywhere near as far as we do,' says Philip Parker of Henry Poole & Co., a 206-year-old clothing business in London that will custom sew a pair of pants and a suit
jacket for about $5,000.
亨利•普尔服装店(Henry Poole & Co.)总经理菲利普•帕克(Philip Parker)说,"那些形形色色的所谓定制产品与我们一直以来所做的定制服装相去甚远,我们并不喜欢这种趋势。"这家位于伦敦的服装店有着206年的制衣历史,在这里定做一条西裤和一件西装外套大约需要5000美元。
'As far as we're concerned, the word has
gotten bastardized,' Mr. Parker says.
帕克说,"在我们看来,这个词被滥用了。"
Newly bespoke business people say they have
sympathy for Savile Row purists -- to a point. 'I admire what they do and love that there are people who really put their heart into their craft,' says Scott Summit,
founder of San Francisco's Bespoke Innovations, which makes customized covers for
artificial limbs. 'But the word is
inevitably going to evolve.'
新加入定制行业的人说,在一定程度上,他们对萨维尔街的纯化论者抱有同情。旧金山生产定制假肢护套的Bespoke Innovations公司创始人斯科特•萨米特(Scott Summit)说,"我钦佩他们的所作所为,我欣赏那些真正专注于自己手艺的人;但这个词将不可避免地得到演变。"
When Mr. Summit was
working on his first product, a $4,000 limb covering called Bespoke Fairings, the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office told him it considered bespoke a 'merely descriptive'
adjective -- like
calling a
strawberry 'red' -- for which the trademark bar is very high. Mr. Summit says it took many months' work by lawyers for him to win the trademark.
萨米特的第一件产品是名为Bespoke Fairings的假肢护套,价格4000美元。他在做这件产品时,美国专利与商标局(U.S. Patent and Trademark Office)告诉他,他们认为"定制""只是个描述性"的
形容词──就像把一颗草莓叫做"红"──要想用这个词注册商标,门槛很高。萨米特说他的律师花了好几个月时间才争取到了这个商标。
Mr. Summit also had to fight other bespokers to find a Web address. Bespoke.com belongs to Bespoke Software, forcing him to settle for Bespoke Innovations. Another bespoke challenge: 'No Americans know how to pronounce it,' Mr. Summit says.
萨米特还得为找到一个合宜的网址与其他定制商家斗智斗勇。Bespoke.com这个网址属于定制软件公司(Bespoke Software),这使他不得不勉强接受Bespoke Innovations这个名字。萨米特说,另外一项挑战是,"美国人都不知道这个词如何发音。"
Last month, the Patent and Trademark Office rejected Rachelle Miller's request to trademark bespoke to refer to her dip brand. But the Colorado
resident got a
preliminary green light to trademark Bespoke Crackers. 'It's
totally frustrating,' she says about the split ruling. She plans to
appeal the dip decision.
美国专利与商标局上个月否决了科罗拉多居民蕾切尔•米勒(Rachelle Miller)用"定制"为其调味酱品牌注册商标的申请。但她注册Bespoke Crackers的申请则获得了初步批准。米勒说这种双重标准令人十分懊恼。她计划就调味酱商标遭拒提出申诉。
In a dip
denial letter, a PTO
attorney wrote that there were too many examples of bespoke used to 'refer to similar types of food products, such as sauces, broths and marinades.' A PTO
spokesman says that the
agency can't discuss individual trademarks or applications but that it weighs requests on a case-by-case basis.
在调味酱商标注册否决信中,专利与商标局的律师写道,已经有太多类似食品产品的命名采用了"定制"一词,比如酱汁、肉汤和腌泡汁。专利与商标局的一位发言人说,该局无法谈论单个商标或申请的情况,但他们对申请都是逐个考量的。
The Oxford English Dictionary traces bespoke's origins to the shoemaking trade around the mid-1800s. The
tailoring industry says the term began to be used to describe the cloth customers picked out in advance for their suits. The cloth then became 'spoken for' or 'bespoken.'
在《牛津英语词典》(Oxford English Dictionary)中,"bespoke"一词源自19世纪中期的制鞋行业。裁缝业声称这个词最早用来描述顾客预先挑选出来做西装的布料,这些布料就是被"spoken for"或"bespoken"的(注:意为"被预定了的")。
In the past two centuries, London's elite menswear stores have sprouted along Savile Row, where shops brag about ties to the royal family, Winston Churchill or other English greats.
在过去的两个世纪里,伦敦的高级男装店在萨维尔街蓬勃发展,那里的服装店都夸口自己与皇室、温斯顿•丘吉尔(Winston Churchill)或其他英国名流有关系。
It is unclear when and how bespoke broke out of the
tailoring mold. Mark-Evan Blackman, an
assistant professor of design at New York's Fashion Institute of Technology, says the bespoke proliferation may be tied to young Hollywood types becoming enamored with custom suits about a
decade ago.
目前尚不清楚"定制"是从何时、以及如何冲破裁缝业圈子的。纽约时装技术学院(Fashion Institute of Technology)设计学助理教授马克•埃文•布莱克曼(Mark-Evan Blackman)说,定制的风行可能与大约十年前年轻的好莱坞明星们开始迷恋定制服装有关。
Mr. Blackman says the bespoke boom trailed behind the proliferation of a
parallel term from high-end women's clothing -- couture. 'Bespoke has slowly started seeping into our
consciousness as a term for our gold standard, as a male
equivalent of couture,' he says.
布莱克曼说,"bespoke"的流行紧随着高档女装领域一个对等词的衍生──couture(高级女装定制)。他说,"'bespoke'慢慢开始作为黄金标准的代名词渗入我们的观念,它慢慢成为了男装领域的'couture'。"
He isn't thrilled about how fashion terms have proliferated. 'Everything is couture now, even bedsheets,' says Mr. Blackman.
布莱克曼对时装术语的衍生并不感冒。他说,"现在每样东西都成了高级定制,包括床单。"
Bespoke business people say that the term is apt for their particular line.
定制行业从业者说,这个词对他们的特殊产品而言再合适不过了。
'Like a bespoke tailor, we
measure [clients'] risk tolerance, needs and
outlook in order to develop a
strategy that fits their
unique needs,' says Justin Walters, co-founder of Bespoke Investment Group LLC. 'Let's face it, a company name with 'custom' in it would be much more boring.'
贾斯廷•沃尔特斯(Justin Walters)是定制投资集团有限责任公司(Bespoke Investment Group LLC)的联合创始人。他说,"和量身定制的裁缝一样,我们丈量客户的风险承受力、需求和前景,从而制定出符合其独特需求的策略。必须承认,名字里有'custom(定做)'的公司会平乏很多。"
The U.S. Patent and Trademark Office lists 39 active applications and registrations for 'bespoke' entities or brand names; more than half have been filed in the past 18 months.
美国专利与商标局列出了39项正在进行的"定制"实体或品牌的申请和注册;其中一多半都是在过去18个月里提交的。
But the term has also entered the corporate-speak lexicon, along with words like 'right sizing' and 'leveraging' -- so much so that some executives say they are sick of
hearing the word tossed around in boardrooms.
这个词还进入了企业用语体系,与"规模优化"(right sizing)和"杠杆化"(leveraging)等词汇一道被频繁提及,以至于一些高管们说他们已经厌倦了这个词在会议室里老被用来用去。
'Bespoke, the word to use when you want to
communicate economic superiority,' longtime Silicon Valley
investor Roger McNamee says in an email. He says that when the word started to
sprout a few years ago, he waged a
campaign among investors, novelists and entrepreneurs 'in the hope of creating a bespoke-free zone.' He says he has given up the crusade, after failing to
arrest the
explosion of bespoke use.
资深硅谷投资者罗杰•麦克纳米(Roger McNamee)在一封电子邮件中写道,"在想表达经济优势时可以用bespoke这个词。"他说,当这个词几年前开始流行的时候,他在投资者、小说家和企业家中间发起了一场宣传,"希望创造一个没有bespoke的语言环境"。他说在对bespoke爆炸式使用的阻止失败之后,他已经放弃了这场圣战。
Even users of the word look down their noses at some bespoke brethren. Stefan Paszke, one of the owners of Bespoke Cycles in San Francisco, says some companies tweak an off-the-shelf
bicycle frame and unfairly call it custom. 'That's not really a bespoke bike,' he says. His shop takes dozens of measurements of a rider and completes a questionnaire about what kind of riding a
customer does to create a handmade bike from $3,500 to the 'sky is the limit,' Mr. Paszke says.
即使是这个词的拥趸也会互相瞧不起。斯蒂芬•帕斯泽克(Stefan Paszke)是旧金山定制自行车(Bespoke Cycles)的老板之一。他说有些公司对成品自行车架稍加改造就称其为定做车。他说,"这并不是真正的定制自行车。"帕斯泽克说,为了手工制造出一辆自行车,他的店铺会对一位顾客做几十项测量,并且让顾客完成一张骑车习惯的问卷,这样一辆自行车起价3500美元,"没有上限"。
Mr. Levin, the SAT tutor, says that 'bespoke' legitimately describes what he does. When
prospective clients in New York City puzzled over the name, he showed the dictionary
definition -- 'made to individual order; custom-made; requested' -- printed on his business card.
SAT辅导老师莱文说,"定制"恰当地描述了他所做的工作。当他的潜在客户不明白这个名字的时候,他就让他们看词典里的定义──"按照每个人的订单制作;定做;按需制作"──这个定义被他印在了名片上。
The trouble now, Mr. Levin says: 'Bespoke' is becoming
downright ordinary. 'Fewer and fewer people are asking what it means these days,' he says.
莱文说,现在的问题是,"定制"正变得平淡无奇。他说,"现如今询问这个词意思的人越来越少了。"
Shira Ovide
Shira Ovide