some one else had taken me in hand; and while one of the largest waves
was ringing out its message and spending itself on the beach, I ran
out with open arms to the next, ducked beneath its breaking top, and
got myself into right lusty
relationship with the brave old lake.
Away I sped in free, glad
motion, as if, like a fish, I had been
afloat all my life, now low out of sight in the smooth, glassy
valleys, now bounding aloft on firm combing crests, while the
crystalfoam beat against my breast with keen, crisp clashing, as if composed
of pure salt. I bowed to every wave, and each lifted me right royally
to its shoulders, almost
setting me erect on my feet, while they all
went speeding by like living creatures,
blooming and
rejoicing in the
brightness of the day, and chanting the history of their grand
mountain home.
A good deal of
nonsense has been written
concerning the difficulty of
swimming in this heavy water. "One's head would go down, and heels
come up, and the acrid brine would burn like fire." I was conscious
only of a
joyous exhilaration, my limbs
seemingly heeding their own
business, without any
discomfort or
confusion; so much so, that
without
previous knowledge my experience on this occasion would not
have led me to
detect anything
peculiar. In calm weather, however,
the sustaining power of the water might probably be more marked. This
was by far the most exciting and
effective wave
excursion I ever made
this side of the Rocky Mountains; and when at its close I was heaved
ashore among the sunny grasses and flowers, I found myself a new
creature indeed, and went bounding along the beach with blood all
aglow, reinforced by the best salts of the mountains, and ready for
any race.
Since the
completion of the trans
continental and Utah railways, this
magnificent lake in the heart of the
continent has become as
accessible as any watering-place on either coast; and I am sure that
thousands of travelers, sick and well, would
throng its shores every
summer were its merits but half known. Lake Point is only an hour or
two from the city, and has hotel accommodations and a
steamboat for
excursions; and then, besides the bracing waters, the climates is
delightful. The mountains rise into the cool sky furrowed with
canyons almost yosemitic in
grandeur, and filled with a
gloriousprofusion of flowers and trees. Lovers of science, lovers of
wildness, lovers of pure rest will find here more than they may hope
for.
As for the Mormons one meets, however their doctrines be regarded,
they will be found as rich in human kindness as any people in all our
broad land, while the dark memories that cloud their earlier history
will
vanish from the mind as completely as when we bathe in the
fountain azure of the Sierra.
IX
Mormon Lilies[11]
Lilies are rare in Utah; so also are their companions the ferns and
orchids,
chiefly on
account of the fiery saltness of the soil and
climate. You may walk the deserts of the Great Basin in the bloom
time of the year, all the way across from the snowy Sierra to the
snowy Wahsatch, and your eyes will be filled with many a gay malva,
and poppy, and abronia, and cactus, but you may not see a single true
lily, and only a very few liliaceous plants of any kind. Not even in
the cool, fresh glens of the mountains will you find these favorite
flowers, though some of these desert ranges almost rival the Sierra in
height. Nevertheless, in the building and planting of this grand
Territory the lilies were not forgotten. Far back in the dim geologic
ages, when the sediments of the old seas were being gathered and
outspread in smooth sheets like leaves of a book, and when these
sediments became dry land, and were baked and crumbled into the sky as
mountain ranges; when the lava-floods of the Fire Period were being
lavishly poured forth from
innumerable rifts and craters; when the ice
of the Glacial Period was laid like a
mantle over every mountain and
valley--throughout all these
immensely protracted periods, in the
throng of these
majestic operations, Nature kept her flower children