rocks and mountains that surround and adorn it, and the great Tenaya
Canyon, with its
wealth of all that makes mountains
sublime, they were
welded with the vast South, Lyell, and Illilouette
glaciers on one
side, and with those of Hoffman on the other--thus forming a
portionof a yet grander mer de glace in Yosemite Valley.
I reached the Tenaya Canyon, on my way home, by coming in from the
northeast, rambling down over the shoulders of Mount Watkins, touching
bottom a mile above Mirror Lake. From
thence home was but a saunter
in the
moonlight.
After resting one day, and the weather continuing calm, I ran up over
the left shoulder of South Dome and down in front of its grand split
face to make some measurements, completed my work, climbed to the
right shoulder, struck off along the ridge for Cloud's Rest, and
reached the topmost heave of her sunny wave in ample time to see the
sunset.
Cloud's Rest is a thousand feet higher than Tissiack. It is a
wavelike crest upon a ridge, which begins at Yosemite with Tissiack,
and runs
continuouslyeastward to the
thicket of peaks and crests
around Lake Tenaya. This lofty
granite wall is bent this way and that
by the
restless and weariless action of
glaciers just as if it had
been made of dough. But the grand
circumference of mountains and
forests are coming from far and near, densing into one close
assemblage; for the sun, their god and father, with love ineffable, is
glowing a
sunsetfarewell. Not one of all the assembled rocks or
trees seemed
remote. How
impressively their faces shone with
responsive love!
I ran home in the
moonlight with firm strides; for the sun-love made
me strong. Down through the junipers; down through the firs; now in
jet shadows, now in white light; over sandy moraines and bare,
clanking rocks; past the huge ghost of South Dome rising weird through
the firs; past the
glorious fall of Nevada, the groves of Illilouette;
through the pines of the
valley; beneath the bright
crystal sky
blazing with stars. All of this mountain
wealth in one day!--one of
the rich ripe days that
enlarge one's life; so much of the sun upon
one side of it, so much of the moon and stars on the other.
III
Summer Days at Mount Shasta
Mount Shasta rises in
solitarygrandeur from the edge of a
comparatively low and
lightly sculptured lava plain near the northern
extremity of the Sierra, and maintains a far more
impressive and
commanding
individuality than any other mountain within the limits of
California. Go where you may, within a
radius of from fifty to a
hundred miles or more, there stands before you the
colossal cone of
Shasta, clad in ice and snow, the one grand
unmistakable landmark--the
pole star of the
landscape. Far to the
southward Mount Whitney lifts
its
granitesummit four or five hundred feet higher than Shasta, but
it is nearly snowless during the late summer, and is so feebly
individualized that the traveler may search for it in vain among the
many rival peaks
crowded along the axis of the range to north and
south of it, which all alike are crumbling residual masses brought
into
relief in the
degradation of the general mass of the range. The
highest point on Mount Shasta, as determined by the State Geological
Survey, is 14,440 feet above mean tide. That of Whitney, computed
from fewer observations, is about 14,900 feet. But
inasmuch as the
average
elevation of the plain out of which Shasta rises is only about
four thousand feet above the sea, while the
actual base of the peak of
Mount Whitney lies at an
elevation of eleven thousand feet, the
individual
height of the former is about two and a half times as great
as that of the latter.
Approaching Shasta from the south, one
obtains glimpses of its snowy
cone here and there through the trees from the tops of hills and
ridges; but it is not until Strawberry Valley is reached, where there
is a grand out-
opening of the forests, that Shasta is seen in all its
glory. From base to crown clearly revealed with its
wealth of woods
and waters and
fountain snow,
rejoicing in the bright mountain sky,
and radiating beauty on all the subject
landscape like a sun.
Standing in a fringing
thicket of
purple spiraea in the immediate
foreground is a smooth
expanse of green
meadow with its meandering