purpose of catching the
susceptible. The shops were modestly
attractive from their nature, but the booths
deliberately make eyes
at you, and with telling effect. The very
atmosphere is bewitching.
The lurid smurkiness of the torches lends an
appropriate weirdness
to the figure of the uncouthly clad
pedlar who, with the
politenessof the arch-fiend himself, displays to an eager group the fatal
fascinations of some new
conceit. Here the latest thing in
inventions, a gutta-percha rat, which, for reasons best known to the
vender, scampers about squeaking with a mimicry to shame the
original, holds an admiring crowd spellbound with mingled
trepidation and delight. There a native zoetrope, indefatigable
round of pleasure, whose top fashioned after the type of a turbine
wheel enables a candle at the centre ingeniously to supply both
illumination and
motive power at the same time, affords to as many
as can find room on its
circumference a peep at the composite antics
of a consecutively pictured
monkey in the act of jumping a box.
Beyond this "wheel of life" lies spread out on a mat a most happy
family of curios, the whole of which you are quite prepared to
purchase en bloc. While a little farther on stands a flower show
which seems to be coyly beckoning to you as the blossoms nod their
heads to an imperceptible
breeze. So one
attraction fairly jostles
its neighbor for
recognition from the gay thousands that like
yourself
stroll past in
holiday delight. Chattering children in
brilliant colors, voluble women and talkative men in quieter but no
less
picturesque costumes,
stream on in kaleidoscopic continuity.
And you, carried along by the current,
wander thus for miles with
the tide of pleasure-seekers, till, late at night, when at last you
turn
reluctantlyhomeward, you feel as one does when wakened from
some too
delightful dream.
Or instead of night, suppose it day and the place a
temple. With
those who are entering you enter too through the outer
gateway into
the
courtyard. At the farther end rises a building the like of
which for
richness of effect you have probably never
beheld or even
imagined. In front of you a
flight of white stone steps leads up to
a
terrace whose parapet, also of stone, is diapered for half its
height and open latticework the rest. This
piazza gives entrance to
a building or set of buildings whose every detail challenges the eye.
Twelve pillars of snow-white wood sheathed in part with
bronze,
arranged in four rows, make, as it were, the bones of the structure.
The space between the centre columns lies open. The other triplets
are webbed in the middle and connected, on the sides and front, by
grilles of wood and
bronze forming on the outside a couple of
embrasures on either hand the entrance in which stand the guardian
Nio, two
colossal demons, Gog and Magog. Instead of capitals ,a
frieze bristling with Chinese lions protects the top of the pillars.
Above this in place of entablature rises tier upon tier of decoration,
each tier projecting beyond the one beneath, and the topmost of all
terminating in a
balcony which encircles the whole second story.
The parapet of this
balcony is one mass of
ornament, and its cornice
another row of lions, brown instead of white. The second story is
no less
crowded with
carving. Twelve pillars make its ribs, the
spaces between being filled with
elaboratewoodwork, while on top
rest more friezes, more cornices, clustered with excrescences of all
colors and kinds, and guarded by lions
innumerable. To begin to tell
the details of so multi-faceted a gem were
artistically impossible.
It is a jewel of a thousand rays, yet whose beauties blend into one
as the prismatic tints
combine to white. And then, after the first
dazzle of
admiration, when the spirit of
curiosity urges you to
penetrate the centre aisle, lo and behold it is but a gate! The dupe
of
unexpectedsplendor, you have been paying court to the means of
approach. It is only a
portal after all. For as you pass through,
you catch a
glimpse of a building beyond more
gorgeous still.
Like in general to the first,
unlike it in detail, resembling it
only as the
mistress may the maid. But who shall
convince of charm
by enumerating the features of a face! From the tiles of its
terraceto the encrusted gables that drape it as with some rich bejewelled
mantle falling about it in the most
graceful of folds, it is the
very eastern
princess" target="_blank" title="n.公主;王妃;亲王夫人">
princess of a building
standing in the
majesty of her
court to give you audience.
A pebbly path, a low
flight of stone steps, a pause to leave your
shoes without the sill, and you tread in the
twilight of reverence
upon the moss-like mats within. The
richness of its outer
ornament,
so
impressive at first, is, you discover, but prelude to the lavish
luxury of its
interior. Lacquer,
bronze, pigments, deck its ceiling
and its sides in such profusion that it seems to you as if art had
expanded, in the
congenialatmosphere, into a
tropical luxuriance of
decoration, and grew here as naturally on
temples as in the jungle
creepers do on trees. Yet all is but
setting to what the place
contains; objects of bigotry and
virtue that
appeal to the
artisticas much as to the religious instincts of the
devout. More sacred
still are the things treasured in the sanctum of the priests. There
you will find gems of art for whose sake only the most abnormal
impersonality can prevent you from breaking the tenth commandment.
Of the value set upon them you can form a distant approximation from
the
exceedingrichness and the
amazing number of the silk cloths and
lacquered boxes in which they are so religiously kept. As you gaze
thus, amid the soul-satisfying
repose of the spot, at some
masterpiece from the brush of Motonobu, you find yourself wondering,
in a fanciful sort of way, whether Buddhist
contemplation is not
after all only another name for the
contemplation of the beautiful,
since devotees to the one are ex officio such votaries of the other.
Dissimilar as are these two
glimpses of Japanese
existence, in one
point the bustling street and the hushed
temple are alike,--in the
nameless grace that beautifies both.
This spirit is even more
remarkable for its all-pervasiveness than
for its
inherentexcellence. Both objectively and subjectively its
catholicity is
remarkable. It imbues everything, and affects
everybody. So
universally" target="_blank" title="ad.普遍地">
universally is it
applied to the daily affairs of
life that there may be said to be no
mechanical arts in Japan simply
because all such have been raised to the position of fine arts. The
lowest
artisan is
essentially" target="_blank" title="ad.本质上,基本上">
essentially an artist. Modern French nomenclature