酷兔英语


From a tiny food stall in a Flushing basement, Xi'an Famous Foods made a mark on the city's culinary world with its hand-pulled noodles and spicy Chinese fare.


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Five years later, the father-son team behind the food with a cult following has four postage-size restaurants and plans for many more.


西安名吃"(Xi'an Famous Foods)最早是纽约皇后区法拉盛(Flushing)地下小吃城的一个小吃店,如今这个小店凭借手工扯面和辣味中国菜在纽约食圈名声大噪。



Jason Wang and his father, David 'Liang Pi' Shi, are in the process of building a commissary in a vacantwarehouse in East Williamsburg. The 5,000-square-foot space will have a model kitchen, training center and a production facility for frozen food they eventually hope to sell at local grocery markets. They project that it will be up and running in the next three to four months.


这个小吃店是一对父子俩在五年前所开,现在已经发展到四家,不过都是巴掌大小的店面,但追随者甚众,他们计划开更多分店。



'At least a dozen restaurants can be serviced from there,' said Mr. Wang, 22 years old and a recent graduate of Washington University in St. Louis.


Jason Wang和他的父亲David "Liang Pi" Shi目前正在纽约东威廉斯堡区(East Williamsburg)一个闲置仓库里修建餐厅配给站。这个仓库的建筑面积有5,000平方英尺,配给站建成后将有一个标准厨房、一个培训中心和一个制作冷冻食品的生产厂,父子俩希望这些冷冻食品最终能在当地杂货市场上销售。他们预计,配给站将在未来三到四个月建成并开业。



Xi'an Famous Foods is a family-run business with no outside investors and a secret spice mix and sauce that it holds under lock and key. Plans for the commissary include a locked chamber where Mr. Shi will make the family recipes that are an integral part of Xi'an's dishes.


22岁的小凉(译者注:其父自称"凉皮",他自称"小凉")不久前刚从圣路易斯的华盛顿大学(Washington University in St. Louis)毕业,他说,配给站建成之后至少可为十来个饭馆提供服务。



The modest street-food style food -- where a cumin lamb burger runs $3, and a plate of cold skin noodles, under $5 -- has attracted attention from near and far, including from the foodie television shows of Anthony Bourdain and Andrew Zimmern.


"西安名吃"是个家族式小企业,没有外来投资者的参与,其秘制混合香料和酱汁的配方也由父子俩妥善保管。新建的配给站还包括一个可供老凉研制秘密配方的"密室",这个配方是"西安名吃"不可或缺的一部分。



'I go there all the time, I love it so much,' said Mr. Zimmern, who has featured Xi'an on two of his shows. 'I find it seminal. You could dip a day-old shoe into his chili oil and stuff it with roasted lamb and I would still eat it and love it.'


"西安名吃"所卖的都是便宜的街头食品,一个孜然羊肉夹馍卖3美元,一盘凉皮不到5美元,这些小吃不仅吸引了四面八方的食客,甚至还登上了安东尼•波登(Anthony Bourdain)和安德鲁•施文(Andrew Zimmern)的电视美食节目。



Rick Federico, chief executive officer and president of P.F. Chang's China Bistro Inc., said he was intrigued by the lamb and stewed pork burgers when he went to one of the Manhattan locations on a culinary tour of New York. 'We were thinking about how we might apply a sandwich into our business,' he said. He called the food 'phenomenal.' 'I love the fact that it's deep in family history, yet they put a little bit of a contemporary twist on it,' he said.


施文的电视节目中有两期专门介绍了"西安名吃"。他说,我总是去那儿吃,特别喜欢那里;我认为这个小店的滋味很独到。如果你把一只穿了一天的鞋子蘸到那家店里做的辣椒油里,然后把里面塞满了烤羊肉,我还是会吃它,并且觉得很好吃。



Mr. Wang said they are currently scouting locations in midtown and Brooklyn for future locations. Until now, solicitations from potential investors or franchisees as well as inquiries about its recipes have been turned down or put on hold until they develop an infrastructure.


美国连锁高级中餐馆"华馆"(P.F. Chang's China Bistro Inc.)首席执行长兼总裁费德里科(Rick Federico)说,他去纽约享用美食时曾去过"西安名吃"的曼哈顿分店,烤羊肉和肉夹馍激起了他的好奇心。他说,我们曾经想过如何把肉夹馍这样的三明治放到我们的餐饮当中来。他说小吃店的饭菜"非常了不起",还说他喜欢这种父子情深的合作,并且很高兴看到他们还在经营中加入了一些现代元素。



Mr. Wang trademarked Xi'an Famous Foods recently. Once the commissary is open, the father-and-son partners intend to apply to food regulators for approval so that they can sell some frozen dishes at local supermarkets.


小凉说,他们目前正在曼哈顿中城和布鲁克林区(Brooklyn)寻找新店面。到现在为止,潜在投资者或特许经营人要求投资或申请加盟以及关于食谱配方的询问都被他们谢绝了,或暂时不予考虑,等建起配给站以后再做打算。



Mr. Wang and his father are also exploring franchising the restaurant group and opening to outside investors, with long-term goals of expanding outside of the New York metropolitan area.


小凉前不久为"西安名吃"进行了商标注册。配给站投入运营后,父子俩打算向食品监管机构申请相关许可证,这样就可以在当地超市出售一些速冻食品。



'I'm trying to make it into more of a brand,' said Mr. Wang.


另外,小凉和其父亲正在考察研究对"西安名吃"进行特许经营并接受外来投资的可行性,他们的长期目标是将分店开到大纽约地区以外的地方。



The story of Xi'an Famous Foods begins in Xi'an, the original capital of China and now the capital of the Shaanxi province in central China. The region is famous for its spicy food and street snacks, and Mr. Shi's grandfather ran a popular, street food-type restaurant, said Mr. Shi, speaking in his native Mandarin, translated by his son.


小凉说,我正试图把"西安名吃"打造成一个品牌。



While much of the focus on Xi'an Famous Foods has come from its hand-pulled noodles, the owners say the secret is really its spice mix and signature sauces, composed of 20 to 30 different spices and herbs using a family recipe.


"西安名吃"所卖食品起源于古城西安,它曾是中国最早的都城之一,现在是中国陕西省的省会。西安以其偏辣的食物和街头小吃驰名中外。老凉说,自己的祖父曾开过一个人气很旺、专卖街头小吃类食品的饭馆。老凉说的是普通话,儿子小凉为他翻译。



'It's very difficult to make,' said Mr. Shi of his black vinegar and soy sauce-based sauce. 'It's the combination and the process of making it. The portions are very hard to replicate. The temperature has to be right. Even if you're a chef from China very used to the spices, you can tell what could be in there but you don't know what else is in it, you don't know how much is in it or how to cook it.'


虽然到"西安名吃"光顾的人大多是冲其手工扯面而来,但父子俩说,扯面好吃的真正秘密其实是他们的混合香料和独门酱汁,这种酱汁是用他们的家庭配方以20至30种不同香草料混合而成。



Cooks in Xi'an's restaurants are trained in how to make the chewy noodles, which contain no additives. But no one is schooled in how to make the spice mix -- not even Mr. Wang, though he will be the next proprietor of the family recipe.


老凉说,他们家的酱汁以黑醋和酱油打底,具体调配起来很难,其实就是一个如何将香料组合并调制的问题,但很难复制,要有一个适宜的温度。哪怕你是来自中国的大厨,对香料十分在行,你也只能分辨出里面都可能有些什么香料,但你不知道里面还有哪些成分,也不知道这些成分的分量或怎么调配。



'It's the heart and soul of our product,' said Mr. Shi.


"西安名吃"各店的厨师都经过培训,知道如何制作没有任何添加剂、但却弹性十足的面条。但他们对于如何制作混合香料则完全不知情,甚至连小凉──家族秘方的未来继承人,也不知道其中的玄机。



Father and son don't always agree. While Mr. Shi envisions adding more dishes and opening up a sit-down restaurant, Mr. Wang wants to stick to what they do best: quick, made-to-order food from a little-known region of China.


老凉说,这是我们产品的灵魂所在。



'That's not who we are,' he said. 'We're like a street-food place.'


父子俩的看法并非永远一致。虽然老凉的设想是应添加更多菜品,并开一个供客人坐下来点菜的餐馆,但小凉则希望坚守住他们的优势,即上菜迅速、随点随吃的西安小吃特点。



Sumathi Reddy


小凉说,照父亲的想法去做就会改变我们的风格,而我们就是一个卖街头小吃的地方。