Christmas came early for the fashion industry this year. Le tout le monde was a-Twitter over the splashy news that Prince William had proposed to his longtime girlfriend, Kate Middleton. Along with the accolades, came the dress
speculation: Who will Kate choose? Will she pick a non-British
designer? Will she go with a giant puff of a dress like the famous one worn by Princess Diana in 1981?
对时尚业来说,今年的
圣诞节提前来了。全世界都在谈论着英国威廉王子(Prince William)向交往已久的女友凯特(Kate Middleton)求婚这条备受关注的消息。除了声声赞许之外,人们对婚纱的猜测也是浮想联翩:凯特将选择哪位设计师?她会挑选一位英国之外的设计师吗?她会穿着拖地长裙,就像戴安娜王妃(Princess Diana) 1981年穿过的那款出尽了风头的长裙一样?
More likely, Middleton, a woman of understated
elegance, will opt for something
refined. Tabloid photos reveal a young woman with
classic, even preppy taste, who doesn't wear garish makeup or too-short skirts. At the press
conference announcing the news, Middleton wore a
flattering slim-cut navy dress by London label ISSA; the blue dress matched the
sapphireengagement ring, which was
originally Princess Diana's
engagement ring.
可能性更大的是,凯特这位有着低调优雅风范的女子将选择格调雅致的东西。在小报照片中看出她的品位很传统,甚至有些学院派的品位,她既不浓妆艳抹,也不穿超短裙。在宣布订婚消息的新闻发布会上,凯特身着一条海蓝色的修身裙,这款颇受好评的裙子来自伦敦品牌ISSA;蓝色的裙子与那枚蓝宝石订婚戒指相得益彰,这枚戒指曾是戴安娜王妃的订婚戒指。
For a fashion house, there can be no event bigger than a royal
wedding. Millions of people all over the world tuned in to watch Princess Diana
descend from her
carriage and enter church with her 25-foot
antique lace and silk taffeta train. Her silk taffeta dress, by Welsh
designer David Emanuel, was embroidered with sequins and over 10,000 pearls. When Grace Kelly married Prince Rainier III of Monaco, in 1956, she wore a dress designed by Helen Rose, MGM's star
costumedesigner. Rose dressed Kelly in 'High Society,' Lauren Bacall in 'Designing Woman' and Elizabeth Taylor in 'Butterfield 8,' among others.
对一个时尚品牌来说,没有什么活动比一场皇室婚礼更盛大了。全世界数百万人从电视上看着戴安娜王妃走下车,身穿一袭 25英尺长、带有古典韵味的蕾丝塔夫绸拖地长裙步入教堂。她的这身蕾丝塔夫绸长裙出自威尔士设计师伊曼纽尔(David Emanuel)之手,上面绣有亮片和一万多颗珍珠。当格蕾丝•凯利(Grace Kelly) 1956年嫁给摩纳哥王子兰尼埃三世(Prince Rainier III)时,她穿着由米高梅(MGM)著名服装设计师海伦•露丝(Helen Rose)设计的婚纱。格蕾丝•凯利在《上流社会》(High Society)、劳伦•白考尔(Lauren Bacall)在《风流记者》(Designing Woman)以及伊丽莎白•泰勒(Elizabeth Taylor)在《青楼艳妓》(Butterfield 8)中都穿着海伦•露丝设计的服装。她的服装还出现在其他影片中。
If this were an American
wedding, we imagine the top list of contenders would be heavies like
bridal queen Vera Wang, fresh off designing Chelsea Clinton's and Ivanka Trump's gowns, or Oscar de la Renta, who has dressed Madison Avenue
princesses and actresses for decades. Throw Carolina Herrera and J. Mendel's Gilles Mendel in there and it could be a design fight to the finish. But we don't think Middleton is that much of a non-traditionalist to go with a non-British
designer.
如果这是一场美国人的婚礼,我们可以想象竞争者榜单的前几名将是王薇薇(Vera Wang)或是奥斯卡•德拉伦塔(Oscar de la Renta)这样的重量级人物,前者刚刚为
切尔西•克林顿(Chelsea Clinton)和伊万卡•特朗普(Ivanka Trump)设计了婚纱,后者为美国广告界的公主和女演员们设计服装达数十年之久。再加上卡罗琳娜•海莱拉(Carolina Herrera)和J. Mendel的吉尔斯•孟德尔(Gilles Mendel)的话,这最后将成为一场设计大战。不过,我们觉得凯特没有那么反传统会去选择一位英国之外的设计师。
The question is: does Marchesa count?
问题是:玛切萨(Marchesa)算不算英国品牌?
The regal label, an Academy Award and red
carpet standby, is headquartered in New York, sure. But
designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig are British. Few houses can balance drama and femininity like Marchesa. The Spring 2011 show, for example, featured hand-painted gowns, yards of tulle and laser-cut panels. People were
actually moved to tears during the most recent presentation.
这个风格华丽的品牌是奥斯卡颁奖礼和红毯仪式的常客。它的总部的确位于纽约,不过设计师查普曼(Georgina Chapman)和克雷格(Keren Craig)都是英国人。很少有品牌能像玛切萨那样兼顾戏剧夸张效果和女性的柔美。例如,玛切萨2011年春装秀融入了带有手工绘制图案的长裙,长长的薄纱和激光切割的装饰条。在该品牌最近的展示活动上,人们竟然感动得掉下了眼泪。
And look, this will probably never happen