very sure success method but really truly often you think about letting go way before your body does so hang in there and you come up with some pretty peculiar solutions
number two hesitation is bad this is a friction climb up in tuolumne meadows in the yosemite high country friction climbing doesn't have any sort of hard positive edges
you're climbing on little dimples and nubbins in the rock the most friction you have is when you first put your hand or your
on the rock and then from that point on you're basically falling so momentum is good don't stop
rule number three have a plan this is a climb called the naked edge in el dorado canyon outside of boulder this climber is on the last pitch of it he 's actually right about where i fell
often what happens is you're planning so hard for like how do i get through the hardest part how do i get through the hardest part and then what happens you get to the last pitch it's easy and you're completely flamed out don't do it
you have to plan ahead to get to the top but you also can't forget that each individual move you have to be able to complete this is a
climb called the dike route on peyrat dome up in the yosemite high country the interesting thing about this climb is it's not that hard
but if you're the leader on it at the hardest move you're looking at about one hundred foot fall onto some low angle slabs
so you've got to focus you don't want to stop in the middle like coleridge 's kubla kahn you've got to keep going
rule number five know how to rest it's amazing the best climbers are the ones that in the most extreme situations can get their bodies into some position
where they can rest regroup calm themselves focus and keep going
climb in the needles again in california fear really sucks because what it means is you're not focusing on what you're doing
sort of take it straight on and they follow the most obvioussolution this is the devils tower in wyoming which is a columnar basalt formation
that most of you probably know from close encouters with this typically crack climbers would put their hands in and their toes in and just start climbing
the cracks are too small to get your toes into so the only way to climb is using your fingertips in the cracks
and using opposing pressure and forcing yourself up rule number eight strength doesn't always equal success in the thirty five years i've been a climbing guide and taught on indoor walls and stuff like that the most important thing i've learned
was guys will always try to do pull ups beginning guys it's like they thrash they thrash they get fifteen feet up and they can do about fifteen pull ups right and then they just flame out women
are much more in balance because they don't have that idea that they're going to be able to do one hundred pull ups
they think about how to get the weight over their feet because it's sort of natural they carry you all day long so balance is really critical and keeping your weight on your feet
which is your strongest muscle and of course there is rule number nine i came up with rule number nine after i actually didn't plan for a fall and
about forty feet and cracked a rib once you get to that point where you know it's going to happen you need to start thinking about
how you're going to let go because that is the critical piece of not getting hurt how you're going to
fall on to the rope or if you're climbing without a rope fall to a place where you can actually control the fall
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