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风度和温度, 你可以鱼与熊掌兼得-第1页

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使是在暴风雪肆虐的最寒冷冬日里，36岁的康涅狄格州斯坦福(Stamford)金融律师瓦卡斯·范马韦(Waqaas Fahmawi)也从不肯随便穿着带帽子的厚夹克或是鼓鼓囊囊的外套去办公室上班。范马韦说："在衣着方面我相当保守。"他会穿一件单排扣、V字领的雅格狮丹(Aquascutum)大衣，手工裁制，衣料采用厚重的羊毛加羊绒。他补充道："那种鼓外套只有在最休闲的场合穿，比方说去商场的时候。"

 

如果你正坐在家里为他打分，结果大概会是这样：实用程度，零分；优雅度，一分。这是一类职业男性所保有的自尊，他们中既有年轻的分析师，也有各行各业的巨擎们，这些人面对冬日里的风霜刀剑和冷锋寒潮时也不忘保持衣着得体，尽管这时候其他人早就缩作一团躲进舒适保暖的厚衣服里去了。

 

范马韦的大衣出自一家英国公司，这有些意味深长。亚历克斯·威尔科克斯(Alex Wilcox)开玩笑道："英国人不是特别注重实际的人。我们沉浸于这样的一种传统之中，有时候会为了更有风度的外观而放弃实用性。"威尔科克斯在英格兰北部长大，2006年，他在纽约开了定制服装店Lord Willy's。

 

当然，他这只是谦辞。英国人已经想出了一些对付严寒天气的最优雅解决之道。近来，威尔科克斯与苏格兰品牌Mackintosh合作制作了一款限量版的该品牌经典Dunoon大衣，这件衣服他在严寒天气里穿。他说："这是一件轻质的Loro Piana品牌（羊毛材质的大衣），做过全封闭处理，完全可以防水防风。"

 

许多男性在只要条件允许的情况下都会脱掉厚重的外套，仅靠一条围巾这一风流浪子的首选配饰来保暖。他们的想法是：如果能够摆脱累赘又麻烦的外套，又何乐而不为呢？

 

然而在世界的某些地方，厚外套早晚都是必要之物，不管你在上下班路上穿多豪华的绒衣，保护得多严密，也无济于事。经典的羊毛或羊绒外套有时候就够用了，不过有些品牌还会再多些保护。华伦天奴(Valentino)当季销售的Subzero Couture系列中有一款定制的羊毛大衣，里面藏了一层薄薄的鹅绒衬里。与此同时，布里奥尼(Brioni)的创意总监布伦丹·马兰(Brendan Mullane)一直在寻找通过保护性涂层来加强天然纤维的办法。布里奥尼还会为大衣配上做工精良的豪华衬里。马兰说："其中的理念是要让穿着者尽情享受毛毡羊绒和皮毛衬里带来的奢华感受，这些内衬不仅提供天然的保护，而且具备相当高水准的繁复精致。"今年秋季，他设计了一款精致的羊绒带帽厚夹克，帽子的衬里采用的是海狸皮毛，这款外套或许能够入得了华尔街人士的眼。

 

有些时候，添加些许动感元素也能过关。设计师西蒙·斯珀尔(Simon Spurr)不久前被任命为英国经典品牌Kent & Curwen的创意总监（今年1月份他为该品牌设计的服装系列首次亮相），他的设计并没有将臃肿外套完全排除在外。他说："我完全赞同将羽绒外套与西装搭配在一起的穿法，只要这两件衣服的剪裁制作都很完美就好。"几年前，他买过一件蒙口(Moncler)的羽绒服，那件羽绒服外层所采用的材料是灰色的法兰绒，而非一般常用的尼龙。他说："这件羽绒服改变了我那年冬天的穿衣方式。"Loro Piana的Storm System夹克也进入了华尔街人士的衣橱，这款衣服由防风防水的羊绒制成，长至臀部，款式有些像滑雪服。不过，它属于那种暗色的中性滑雪服风格，而不是色彩艳丽、在陡峭雪坡上炫技巧的那类。

 

秋季T台秀：取代经典三排扣大衣的优雅且不失功能性的选择。品牌由左到右分别为：路易威登(Louis Vuitton)、布里奥尼(Brioni)和菲拉格慕(Salvatore Ferragamo)

 

对于一些男性而言，解决功能性与正装之间的矛盾并不是难题。布鲁明戴尔百货店(Bloomingdale's)男装部主管乔希·派斯科维茨(Josh Peskowitz)说，由带饰钉的橡胶制成且被Church's和Paraboot等高端鞋品牌采用的Dainite鞋底"是在湿滑天气里避免摔得颜面尽失的最讲究的方式"。派斯科维茨还会穿Church's品牌的布洛克靴。这种款式的皮鞋鞋面上带有旨在将水从鞋内排出的圆孔，是专门为涉水行走而设计的。鞋子采用了Goodyear轧边技术，这是一种将鞋底缝合在鞋外表面以保证鞋子底部完整无缺的技术，也有助于增强耐水性。

 

至于是否要穿橡胶鞋套来保护脚上的John Lobb鞋子不会被冰雪之神毁掉，或是被人行道上的融雪盐腐蚀掉，人们的意见大相径庭。尼曼集团(Neiman Marcus Group)的男装部主管马修·辛格(Matthew Singer)说："我会选择鞋套，鞋套穿上脱下都很容易，而且我也不用再多带一双鞋子了。"也有些人无法接受。斯珀尔说，他觉得鞋套"让人沮丧。"他补充道："我只是穿着我的鞋，然后在上下班路上多加小心一点儿。"

 

如果你恰好是赞成穿鞋套的一方，那么英国靴子制造商John Lobb的产品就是你的理想选择。不过，这家公司也为恶劣天气提供一些其他选择。该公司的业务总监保尔·戈林(Paul Goring)解释说，对于那些不反对用靴子搭配正装的绅士而言，该公司有一些靴款可以抵御恶劣天气，而且制作精良，足以适合正式场合。他还表示，该公司的许多经典款式牛津鞋和平底便鞋可以定制选用Dainite鞋底和抵御恶劣天气的皮质。

 

升级正装的面料也是一个保暖又不失优雅风度的办法。定制正装品牌Miller's Oath的老板柯克·米勒(Kirk Miller)说，他会选择那些多些"胆识"的面料，比如粗花呢，这种面料在抵御潮湿寒冷的天气方面无可匹敌。法兰绒的正装也是一个不错的选择。布里奥尼的马兰通过试验找到一种用丝绸与精致羊绒针织而成的升级版面料。他还在及膝的长筒袜里添加了羊绒与丝绸的混纺面料。

 

斯珀尔指出，配饰或许是优雅绅士们抵御严寒天气的最有效武器：带有羊绒内衬的小牛皮手套是必备之物，还要有一条上好的围巾。若要显得有派头，还可以别一枚领章，外加一把制作精美的雨伞。

 

不过，无论你准备得如何完备，总有那么几天天气会占到上风。这时候，风度或许只能表现在牙齿打着颤的笑谈之间了。

 

Even on the most bitter and blizzard-iest of winter days, Waqaas Fahmawi, a 36-year-old financial lawyer, would never deign to travel to his Stamford, Conn. office in a parka or puffer jacket. 'I'm pretty conservative sartorially,' said Mr. Fahmawi, who instead wears a single-breasted, notch-collar Aquascutum overcoat, hand-tailored in heavy wool-cashmere. 'The puffer is reserved for the most casual occasions,' he added. 'Like going to the store.'

If you're keeping score at home, that would be: Elements, 0. Elegance, 1. It's a point of pride among a certain set of professional men, from young analysts to Masters of the Universe, to maintain decorum in the face of wintry mixes and cold fronts, even as the rest of the huddled populace caves to comfort and function.

It speaks volumes that Mr. Fahmawi's coat is from a UK-based company. 'The British are not terribly practical people,' joked Alex Wilcox, who grew up in the north of England, and opened the custom clothing shop Lord Willy's in New York in 2006. 'We're so steeped in tradition we'll sometimes forego practicality for a more elegant appearance.'

He's being modest, of course. The British have come up with some of the most elegant solutions to wicked weather. Mr. Wilcox recently collaborated with Scottish brand Mackintosh to make a limited-edition version of their classic Dunoon coat, which he wears in inclement conditions. 'It's a lightweight charcoal Loro Piana [wool],' he said, 'that has been fully bonded to be completely water- and windproof.'

Many men will forgo a coat as long as they can, using only a scarf, the rake's accessory of choice, for warmth. Their thinking: If I can manage without the encumbrance and bother of a coat, then why not?

In certain parts of the world, however, a coat does eventually become necessary, no matter how plush and protected one's commute may be. Classic wool or cashmere overcoats will do the trick, but some brands go one further. Valentino's Subzero Couture collection currently offers a tailored wool coat that hides a thin goose-down lining. Meanwhile, Brioni's creative director, Brendan Mullane, has been finding ways to boost natural fibers with protective coatings. Brioni also makes coats with discreet luxe linings. 'The idea is to spoil the wearer with felted cashmere or fur liners that give not only natural insulation, but also a high level of sophistication,' said Mr. Mullane. For fall, he created a refined cashmere parka with a beaver fur-trimmed hood that might pass Wall Street muster.

There are moments where a dash of sportiness can be acceptable. Designer Simon Spurr, who was recently named creativedirector of British heritage brand Kent & Curwen (his first collection debuts in January), doesn't entirely rule out the puffer. 'I'm all in favor of pairing a down jacket with a suit as long as both are perfectly tailored,' he said. A few years ago, he bought a down jacket from Moncler with a shell made of gray flannel instead of the typical nylon. 'It changed the way I dressed that winter,' he said. Loro Piana's Storm System jackets, which are made of wind-proof and waterproof cashmere and come in a hip-length, ski style have also made inroads into the wardrobes of Wall Street. Though these come in dark neutrals, as opposed to the screaming brights of slope-gear.

For some men, the question of functional-versus-formal footwear is easy. A Dainite sole, which is made of studded rubber and is used by high-end footwear brands like Church's and Paraboot, 'is the dressiest way to not fall on your face when it's slippery,' said Josh Peskowitz, men's fashion director at Bloomingdale's. Mr. Peskowitz also wears brogue boots by Church's. The style, with round perforations intended to flush water from the shoe, was invented precisely for the slosh. Goodyear welting, a technique of stitching the sole on the outside of the shoe so as to leave the part underfoot unpierced, also helps with water resistance.

Opinion is sharply divided on the issue of rubber overshoes, which protect one's John Lobbs from Jack Frost and the pickling effect of sidewalk salt. 'I opt for shoe covers,' said Matthew Singer, men's fashion director at the Neiman Marcus Group. 'They're easy to slip on and off and allow me to not lug an extra pair of shoes.' Others aren't so accepting. Mr. Spurr said he finds shoe covers 'depressing.' He added,'I'll just wear my shoes and be careful on my way to and from work.'

If you happen to be pro-cover, English boot-maker John Lobb makes the platonic ideal. However, the company also offers bad weather alternatives. For the gentleman who's not averse to boots with a suit, Lobb's director of operations, Paul Goring, explained that the company makes versions that are weather-resistant yet refined enough for a formal setting. Many of the company's classic oxfords and loafers, he added, can be made custom with Dainite soles and weather-resistant leather.

Upping the gauge of one's suiting fabric offers another level of warmth without compromising elegance. Kirk Miller, owner of bespoke suitery Miller's Oath, said he goes for fabric with more 'guts,' like tweed, which is peerless in keeping out damp cold. Flannel suiting is also a fine option. Brioni's Mr. Mullane upgrades the tried-and-true strategy of layering with silk and fine cashmere knits. He also adds cashmere-and-silk knee socks.

Mr. Spurr pointed out that accessories might be the most effectiveweapon in an elegant gent's weather-combatting arsenal: Cashmere-lined calfskin gloves are a must, as is a good scarf. For panache, he also relies on lapel pins and beautifully made umbrellas.

But then, no matter one's level of preparation, there will still be days when the weather simply wins. On those occasions, elegance might just be the ability to laugh through chattering teeth.


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