新加坡众星云集、竞争激烈的饮食行业中,要出类拔萃就意味着你是在用真心制作食物。这句话其实出自特里尼达和多巴哥(Trinidad and Tobago)的40岁原住民克里斯·莫里斯(Chris Morris)之口。他现在正在经营一家位于唐人街若泉路/恭锡路(JiakChuan/KeongSaik)区域的全新加勒比风情酒吧餐厅。
In Singapore's
crowded and
competitive dining scene,
standing out can mean wearing your heart on your sleeve.
对于生活在新加坡的商业顾问们来说,Lime House的意义远超过一间能提供正宗挺举鸡(jerk chicken)和朗姆酒的餐厅。这是一个"充当文化大使的激情项目",它展现了加勒比文化,同时展示了亚洲产品。这里提供30余种(数量还在增加)不同种类的加勒比朗姆酒,同时,这里也陈列了各式现代印象派作品和源自多巴哥艺术画廊(Tobago Art Gallery)展现加勒比风土民情的画作。
That's what Trinidad and Tobago native Chris Morris, 40 years old, says he's doing with Lime House, a new Caribbean bar and
restaurant in the trendy Jiak Chuan/Keong Saik area of Chinatown.
这家餐厅的名字并非取自水果青柠(Lime),它其实是对加勒比的一种叫做"liming"的娱乐文化的致敬。这个词的意思是"和朋友一起外出消遣",莫里斯希望,这样的理念可以在新加坡以高档正式为主的餐饮文化中普及开来。
For the Singapore-based business consultant, Lime House is more than a
restaurant that serves
authentic jerk chicken and rum punch. It's a 'passion
project to create a
cultural embassy' to showcase Caribbean
culture and products in Asia. He's off to a solid start with Caribbean rum varieties numbering about 30 (and growing) and a mix of modern impressions and portraits of Caribbean life sourced from the Tobago Art Gallery.
主厨:为了丰富菜谱,莫里斯先生找来了36岁的特立尼达老乡哈桑·德·福尔(Hasan De Four)作为顾问厨师。
The
restaurant doesn't take its name from the fruit. Rather, it's an
homage to the Caribbean pastime of 'liming'-hanging out with friends, an activity Mr. Morris hopes will catch on in Singapore's upscale, often formal, dining scene.
德·福尔曾在包括享誉盛名的Cottons等多家位于英国的高档加勒比餐厅工作。他也是英国米其林星级厨师加里·罗德(Gary Rhodes)的电视节目《跟随罗德穿越加勒比(Rhodes Across the Caribbean)》中的助理厨师。
The Chef: To develop the menu, Mr. Morris recruited fellow Trinidadian Hasan De Four, 36, as consultant chef.
常驻在伦敦的德·福尔先生特地考察了新加坡可用的食材,以及当地人偏爱的口味。他欣喜地发现很多加勒比菜需要用到的原材料在新加坡当地就可以买到。他说:"它们在这里只是名字不同罢了。"
Mr. De Four has worked at top Caribbean restaurants in the U.K., including the famed Cottons. He was also sous-chef for Michelin-starred British chef Gary Rhodes on his 'Rhodes Across the Caribbean' television series.
他也负责培训和指导当地的厨师,还把Lime House的新加坡主厨托尼·谢(Tony Seah)带去了加勒比地区。并安排谢先生在位于特立尼达(Trinidad)和 卢西亚(St. Lucia)的高级餐厅里工作了三个星期。
London-based Mr. De Four spent time in Singapore to see what ingredients are
available and get an
appreciation of local flavors. He was pleased to find that many of the raw products used in Caribbean cooking are
readilyavailable in the city-state. 'They are just called by a different name,' he says.
食品&饮料:加勒比菜受到了包括非洲、法国、西班牙、荷兰、印度和中国菜系的多方影响。Lime House缩小范围,仅着力在几个经典菜上并力求精益求精,特别是挺举鸡(24新币,19美金,约合116人民币)。制作它需要连夜腌制,并撒上秘制辣酱在烤炉上烘烤而成。
He also trained and mentored local chefs and brought Lime House's Singaporean head chef Tony Seah to the Caribbean, where Mr. Seah spent three weeks
working at fine-dining restaurants in Trinidad and in St. Lucia.
德·福尔说:"配上五香粉浆果、葱、肉豆蔻、肉桂、百里香和哈瓦那辣椒的挺举鸡,风味更是一绝。"他说,加勒比菜通常使用苏格兰灯笼椒,但因为新加坡没有,哈瓦那辣椒也一个不错的替代品。
Food & Drink: Caribbean cuisine spans a wide range of influences, including African, French, Spanish, Dutch, Indian and Chinese. Lime House narrows it down to a
handful of classics and does them well, particularly the jerk chicken (24 Singapore dollars, or US$19), which is marinated
overnight and doused in a spicy house
pepper sauce on the grill.
这里的另一道特色菜是咖喱羊肉搭配椰香饭、青豌豆以及芭蕉棒(新币26元,约合人民币125元)。首先用包括香菜、葱、姜、蒜以及秘制咖喱粉的加勒比绿色调味品(秘制咖喱粉是通过慢烤葫芦巴、香菜种子、香菜和小茴香制成)腌制一夜;然后将山羊肉同百里香、椰奶和哈瓦那辣椒一起烹制。
'With the
unique blend of allspice berries, spring onions, nutmeg, cinnamon, thyme and habanero peppers, it creates a very
amazing taste,' Mr. De Four says. Caribbean cooking uses Scotch
bonnet peppers, he says, but as they aren't
available in Singapore, habaneros are a good substitute.
后脊嫩排搭配特立尼达烧烤酱(半打24新币,约合人民币115元;一打34新币,约合人民币163元)。首先需要涂抹一层干香料并腌制一晚,然后搭配秘制烧烤酱,经四小时烹饪制而成。
Another specialty is the curry goat with
coconut rice, peas and plantain batons ($S26), marinated
overnight in a Caribbean green seasoning of coriander, spring onion,
ginger and garlic, and in-house curry powder: a slow-roasted blend of fenugreek, caraway seeds, coriander and cumin. The meat is then cooked with thyme,
coconut milk and habaneros.
吃加勒比菜可少不了朗姆酒,Lime House的呈现也不会让你失望:既有"鬼魅"的经典朗姆潘趣酒(Classic Rum Punch,16新币,约合人民币77元),更有来自马提尼克(Martinique)的1998年份上乘HSE XO(一杯18新币,约合人民币87元)。
The baby back ribs with Trinidad barbecue sauce (S$24 half rack, S$34 full rack) are marinated with a spicy dry rub
overnight and slow cooked for four hours with an in-house barbecue sauce.
莫里斯说:"我们的目标是只要你在新加坡提到朗姆酒,就会想到Lime House"。他个人的最爱是来自圭亚那黄金国(El Dorado)的25年陈年朗姆酒。"很多人根本没有意识到你能品尝的朗姆酒有多少。"
No Caribbean meal is complete without rum, and Lime House's offerings don't disappoint, whether it's the sweet-and-dangerous Classic Rum Punch (S$16) or a glass of
premium HSE XO 1998 from Martinique (S$18).
装饰:从户外厨房到室内植物,这家三层楼高的文物级店铺结合了英国殖民时代加勒比殖民地种植园房子的通风性,以及错综复杂且历史悠久的娘惹(Peranakan)装饰风格。
'The goal is if you think of rum in Singapore, you think of Lime House,' says Mr. Morris, whose favorite is a 25-year-old rum by El Dorado from Guyana. 'A lot of people don't realize the range of rums that you can get.'
深色的木质地板和白色、柔和的花瓷砖覆盖的 壁形成了对比。隔开一楼主用餐区的是一块原版复刻的娘惹屏障,这也成为了一个有趣的焦点。
The Setting: From the outdoor kitchen to the indoor plants, the three-story
conservation shophouse combines the airiness of a Caribbean
colonialplantation house during British
colonial times with the
intricate design of
historic Peranakan decor.
莫里斯先生说,五颜六色的毛绒沙发和从四处搜罗来的20世纪40年代、50年代的古董家具为二楼的朗姆酒酒吧和休息室增添了一丝情调,它的设计理念是"客厅的延伸",意在鼓励人们和朋友一起来闲坐。我们用那个时代的加勒比海旅游广告点缀 壁,营造出一种复古感。
Dark wood plank floors
contrast with white, pastel-colored and floral tile-covered walls. Dividing the ground floor's main dining area is an original restored Peranakan
screen that's been restored, providing an interesting focal point.
房屋三楼设有私人雅座,它通向一个温馨的屋顶露台,其可供特殊场合租用。
Colorful plush sofas and salvaged
antique furniture from the 1940s and '50s add
character to the second-floor rum bar and lounge, designed as 'an
extension of your living room' to
encourage liming, Mr. Morris says. Caribbean tourism ads from that era dot the walls, adding to the period feel.
小贴士:对"携友闲坐"这个主旨要保持敬畏,虽然他们强烈建议如果在周四、五、六光临要提前预约,但如果你仅是与好友前来闲坐或使用无线网络,则无需预约。莫里斯保证没有人会来收拾你的桌子然后赶你走,在这里,你可以尽情尽兴地与好友畅谈。
The third floor houses private space and leads to a cozy rooftop terrace,
available to rent for special events.
如果你不是太饿,吃不下正餐,楼上酒吧休息室提供的"消遣"菜单(新币6至18元,约合人民币29至87元)提供迷你版的主菜和小食,比如椰香面包虾和通心粉-芝士派,以满足你对加勒比菜的渴求。
Our Tip: Staying true to the liming mantra, reservations aren't necessary to hang out and use the Wi-Fi, though they're recommended for Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. No one will push you out or try to turn your table, Mr. Morris promises. Just be open to conversation.
Lime House,新加坡若泉路2号,电话+65-6222-3130。两人晚餐,不包括饮品,约为75新币(60美元,约合367人民币)
Not hungry enough for a full meal? A 'liming' menu in the
upstairslounge (S$6-S$18) offers mini versions of entrees and tapas-style dishes such as
coconut breaded prawns and macaroni-and-cheese pie to satisfy your Caribbean craving.