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摄影师Alasdair McLellan拍摄的娜塔丽·沃佳诺娃-第1页

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在刚刚过去的三月巴黎时装周里，娜塔丽·沃佳诺娃(Natalia Vodianova) 的日程表紧张得足以挑战任何人的耐力：在她男朋友安托万·阿诺特(Antoine Arnault)──也就是酩悦·轩尼诗－路易·威登集团(LVMH)创始人伯纳德·阿诺特(Bernard Arnault)的儿子──为她举办的31周岁生日惊喜派对上，她竟还同时担任着荣誉来宾。次日晚上，沃佳诺娃为网上零售商颇特集团(Net-a-Porter)主办了一场鞋子发售会，颇特集团销售的正是她亲自为俄罗斯零售商Centro设计的鞋子系列。而为Centro设计鞋子这件事，又将使她于十年前在家乡俄罗斯为贫困儿童筹建的"赤子之心慈善基金"(Naked Heart Foundation)受益。这周日清晨，沃佳诺娃6点便起床忙开了：先是为了支持"赤子之心慈善基金"动身去参加了巴黎半马拉松长跑；接着去参加纪梵希(Givenchy)礼服试衣；然后回家照顾三个孩子吃午餐；再然后为出席晚上7点纪梵希时尚秀闭幕活动跑去弄头发和化妆。在纪梵希的前排看客嘉宾里，有坎耶·韦斯特(Kanye West), 金·卡戴珊(Kim Kardashian), 杰西卡·查斯坦(Jessica Chastain), 阿诺特, 沃佳诺娃11岁的儿子卢卡斯(Lucas)，以及她那位第一次看到孙女在T台上摇曳而来，因而把掌声鼓得震天动地的俄罗斯老祖母。沃佳诺娃30出头还能胜任顶级模特的工作，这着实让人意外。而更让人意外的是她同时还在慈善事业中大展拳脚。以往的超模们会等到签约率下降时才把精力转移到慈善事业和其他第二职业里，但此时沃佳诺娃仍有娇兰(Guerlain)和法国内衣品牌艾格(Etam)的合约在手，并且还在帮后者设计自己的系列。其实沃佳诺娃完全可以在时尚事业稍微停滞后再做慈善，但她历来都极力把自己塑造成那种无论是兴趣或野心都超越了T台的人，正如她的设计师朋友斯特拉·麦卡特尼(Stella McCartney)说的那样，沃佳诺娃打从一开始就颇为"全能"。


DURING FASHION WEEK this past March in Paris, Natalia Vodianova maintained a schedule that would test anyone's stamina: She was the guest of honor at a surprise party for her 31st birthday, hosted by her boyfriend, Antoine Arnault, son of LVMH founder Bernard Arnault. The next night she hosted a party to launch online retailer Net-a-Porter's sale of a shoe collection she designed for Russian retailer Centro to benefit her Naked Heart Foundation, a charity she founded a decade ago to help disadvantaged children in her native Russia. That Sunday she woke up at 6 a.m. to run the Paris half-marathon, also in support of the Naked Heart Foundation; did a Givenchy fitting; came home to feed lunch to her three children; and then headed off to get into hair and makeup to close the Givenchy fashion show at 7 p.m. Among the front-row onlookers were Kanye West, Kim Kardashian, Jessica Chastain, Arnault, Vodianova's 11-year-old son, Lucas, and her Russian grandmother, who clapped wildly as she watched her granddaughter sashay down the runway for the first time.


这个春天，沃佳诺娃的付出有了回报。在一年一度的DVF颁奖礼上，她荣获了"灵感大奖"(Inspiration Award)。设计师黛安·冯芙丝汀宝(Diane von Furstenberg)曾把此奖颁给过英格丽德·贝当古(Íngrid Betancourt?)和伊丽莎白·斯玛特(Elizabeth Smart)两位女士。那二人在"面对逆境和挫折时都展现了惊人的力量和勇气"，并且运用这种"经历和影响力让事情产生了正面的改变"。沃佳诺娃在她19岁时就结识了冯芙丝汀宝。那还是在2001年的纽约，当时沃佳诺娃刚刚展开她的第一季模特生涯。冯芙丝汀宝抢下了她，将其作为自己时装发布会开场和结尾出场的模特。冯芙丝汀宝说：""我立马就爱上了她。她从来都不像孩子，而是一个成年人。很早之前她就把握住了自己的生活，并且深知只有控制好它才能走向成功。"


That Vodianova is still landing prime modeling jobs now that she is on the far side of 30 is surprising. That she simultaneously established herself as a philanthropic force even more so. Historically, supermodels have waited until their bookings diminish to turn their efforts to charity and other second careers. Vodianova still has lucrative contracts with Guerlain and French lingerie brand Etam, for which she also designs her own collection. It's a wave she could ride until she washes up on fashion's more obscure shores, but instead, Vodianova has always sought to establish herself as someone with interests and ambitions above and beyond the runway-or as her friend designer Stella McCartney puts it, she's been 'well-rounded' from the start.


沃佳诺娃从赤贫到富有的传奇人生，恐怕只有剧作家才能想象得出来：前一天她还在水果摊前卖桔子，后一天便和CK (Calvin Klein)签订了几百万美元的排他合同。沃佳诺娃出生在一个离莫斯科260英里（约合418公里）名为下诺夫哥罗德(Nizhny Novgorod)的工业小镇，她早在11岁便翘课回家帮补家用，家里有她的单亲母亲拉里莎(Larissa)和患孤独症的异父妹妹奥克萨娜(Oksana)。沃佳诺娃的父亲在她还在蹒跚学步时便离开了家。母亲只能一人打三份工维持生计，其中包括一份在当地集市卖水果的活儿。沃佳诺娃在自己能完全独立照顾水果摊之前，一直在母亲旁边帮忙。沃佳诺娃说："我曾在零下25摄氏度的天气里，在外面连续站12小时卖水果。回到家以后，我常常因为手指和脚趾解冻而痛得尖叫。"如今，沃佳诺娃身处的环境可豪华多了。说这段话时，她正身处于和阿诺特合居、可瞻俯荣军院(Invalides)的巴黎公寓里。跑马拉松的前一天，身着短袖衫和黑白条纹裤子的沃佳诺娃蜷在家里的沙发上休息。她翻开日程表给我看一张她小时候的照片，并说："我以前眼睛下总有肿起的巨大黑眼圈。你可以切实从我脸上看到生活的重担。"


This spring, her efforts were acknowledged with the Inspiration Award at the annual DVF Awards-an honor that designer Diane von Furstenberg has previously presented to Íngrid Betancourt and Elizabeth Smart, both women who have 'demonstrated extraordinary strength and courage in the face of adversity' and use this 'experience and influence to effect positive change.' Von Furstenberg met Vodianova when she was 19 years old, during her first season modeling in New York in 2001, when the designer snapped her up to open and close her catwalk presentation. 'I immediately loved her. She was never like a young child, always a grown-up,' says von Furstenberg. 'Very early on she took her life in her hands and decided that unless she controlled it, she couldn't succeed.'




Vodianova's rags-to-riches life story reads like something only a screenwriter could imagine: One day she was selling oranges at a fruit stand; then she was signing an exclusive multimillion-dollar contract with Calvin Klein. Born in Nizhny Novgorod, an industrial town 260 miles from Moscow, she started skipping school at the age of 11 to help support her single mother, Larissa, and autistic younger half-sister, Oksana. (Vodianova's father walked out when she was a toddler, leaving her mother to work three jobs, including selling fruit at a local market. At first, Vodianova helped her before taking over the duties completely.) 'I used to sell fruit on the street in minus-25-degree Celsius weather, outside in the open air, for 12 hours straight. I would come home and scream in pain as my fingers and my toes were literally defrosting,' says Vodianova, now amid much plusher surroundings in a Paris apartment overlooking the Invalides she shares with Arnault. Resting up the day before the marathon, she's curled on a couch wearing a cap-sleeved sweater and black-and-white-striped trousers. Flipping open her agenda, she shows me a photograph from her childhood. 'I always had big black circles under my eyes, which were swollen. You can literally see that burden in my face.'


沃佳诺娃决心去为自己创造更好的生活。1999年，17岁的沃佳诺娃在她一个男朋友的建议下去参加了一个公开试镜。模特星探马上把她推荐给了莫斯科的一个模特中介。但一开始沃佳诺娃的母亲对此事并不情愿。她对星探的意图感到怀疑，并且家里也要倚仗沃佳诺娃帮忙。沃佳诺娃说："我们没时间去做梦。我还记得我在学校上英语课时就在想我干嘛要学习另一种语言呢？"不过，沃佳诺娃的祖母对这件事是支持的，最后大家决定她可以去试一试。


Vodianova was determined to make a better life for herself, and in 1999, when she was 17, a boyfriend suggested she attend an open casting call. The model scout immediately recommended her to an agency in Moscow. At first, her mother was reluctant to let her go because she was suspicious of the scout's intentions and depended on her help at home. According to Vodianova, 'We didn't have the time to dream. I remember having English lessons in school and thinking, Why on Earth would I learn another language?' Yet Vodianova's grandmother was encouraging, and the family decided she could give it a try.


沃佳诺娃立马就被从莫斯科送到了巴黎。她的中介给了她一个星期的预付款，她把这笔钱寄给了母亲。当时沃佳诺娃的母亲已有了第三个女儿克里斯季娜(Kristina)。沃佳诺娃说："当时这对我们家来说可是挺大一笔钱了，相当于一个月的收入。" 这也让沃佳诺娃的母亲对于女儿执意离去的这个决定做了妥协。正如沃佳诺娃所说："她（母亲）开始意识到这也许是件好事。"与此同时，年轻的沃佳诺娃终于从焦虑紧张的樊笼里解脱出来，初尝到自由的滋味。她提到："仅仅是有机会成为另一个人，就已让那段时光变得非常美好。就那么一次，我这个在新地方完全不知名的普通女孩，竟有机会去开启一段新生活了。"而当她在巴黎的一场晚宴上遇到时髦的英国富二代贾斯廷·波特曼阁下时(Honorable Justin Portman)，新生活也随之正式展开了。两人在2001年(当时沃佳诺娃19岁)结婚，并有了他们的第一个儿子卢卡斯。


From Moscow, Vodianova was immediately sent to Paris. Her agency gave her a weekly advance, which she sent to her mother, who by then had a third child, daughter Kristina. 'It was quite a lot of money for my family, like a month's salary,' says Vodianova. It helped her mother come to terms with her daughter's decision to leave. 'She started to realize that this could be good.' Meanwhile, it was the first taste of freedom from an angst-ridden existence for the young Vodianova. 'It was such a beautiful time, just having that chance to be a different person. For once, I was a normal girl and completely anonymous in a new place and had an opportunity to start a new life.' That new life began in earnest when she met the Honorable Justin Portman, a dashing English property heir, at a Parisian dinner party. They married in 2001, when she was 19 years old and pregnant with their first son, Lucas.




Her career took off immediately. Among a crop of leggy Russians, Vodianova stood out for her chameleonlike acting abilities, intense work ethic and sense of humor-not to mention her wide-set, expressive eyes, thick brows and pouty lips. Photographer Juergen Teller shot her for a 2001 Marc Jacobs campaign. The following year, Tom Ford cast her in a Gucci campaign. She became a favorite of Vogue, starring in the title role of a now-famous Alice in Wonderland-themed editorial shot by Annie Leibovitz and styled by Grace Coddington in the magazine's December 2003 issue. And then, at the age of 21, she signed an eight-season, seven-figure contract with Calvin Klein that changed her life.


沃佳诺娃也马上迎来了事业上的腾飞。在一大群长腿俄罗斯模特中，沃佳诺娃多变的表现力，强烈的职业道德感和幽默感让她脱颍而出──更别提她还有着宽阔灵动的双眼、粗粗的眉毛和那翘翘的嘴唇了。2001年，摄影师于尔根·特勒(Juergen Teller)为她拍摄了一组照片参加马克·雅可布(Marc Jacobs)的推广会。次年，她已经成为《Vogue》杂志的最爱。在《Vogue》2003年12月刊上，沃佳诺娃领衔拍摄了现在已非常著名的爱丽丝梦游仙境主题照片。照片由安妮·莱波维兹(Annie Leibovitz)操刀拍摄，格蕾丝·柯丁顿(Grace Coddington )负责造型。紧接着，21岁的沃佳诺娃跟CK签订了那份改变她一生的合同。该合约时长八季，价值百万。


'When I met her for the first time, she took my breath away. She is beyond superficial beauty. This is a beauty that is from the inside and comes out,' Klein says. Vodianova was the last girl Klein personally put under an exclusive contract before he retired, catapulting her into the ranks of a Kate Moss, Christy Turlington and Brooke Shields. 'She was very sexual, seductive, she was all those things that I wanted to represent. I used her for everything I could... Too often, models are flat. They have good bodies, but you can see in their faces that there's not a lot there. But Natalia has such a great spirit.'




A year after her first Calvin Klein ads appeared in 2003, when larger-than-life images of her posing seductively loomed over New York's SoHo, Vodianova decided she needed to pay back some of the good fortune she was enjoying by forming her own charity. The impetus was the school hostage crisis in the Russian city of Beslan in 2004, which ended with more than 380 dead, many of them children. Vodianova was in Moscow at the time of the crisis and witnessed firsthand how her countrymen were shaken by the tragedy. 'It was everywhere. The whole country stopped,' Vodianova remembers. Lucas, her eldest child, was 3 years old at the time-the same age as some of the children who were killed. 'I was wrestling with how I went from the bottom of society to the top of financial security. That feeling of unfairness upset me.'


CK设计师克莱因(Klein)说："当我第一次见到她时，不由屏住了呼吸。她拥有一种更深邃的、从内而外发散出来的美。"沃佳诺娃是克莱因退休前最后一个签订排他合同的女模特，此举足以让她和凯特·摩丝(Kate Moss)、克莉丝蒂·杜灵顿(Christy Turlington) 以及波姬·小丝(Brooke Shields)相比肩。克莱因还说："她非常性感，具有诱惑力，并且身上具备所有我想表现的东西。只要可以，我在能用她的地方都用她......通常模特们都平庸无奇。她们有美丽的躯体，但你可以从她们脸上看出她们并没什么内涵。然而沃佳诺娃却有着那么出色的灵魂。"


As she struggled to determine what she could do to help, she sought the answer in her own past. 'I went back to my childhood and saw myself as a little girl who was very much in a difficult situation, growing up with my disabled sister. My childhood was very abnormal. I missed out on simple things.' Oksana was born with autism and cerebral palsy. 'I was attached to her and [therefore] almost disabled myself because I couldn't play with my own friends.' Vodianova's eyes tear up as she tries to explain, 'I felt ashamed sometimes. We spent all our time walking outside because she loved it, but we were always exposed to people being horrible to us. I remember thinking that what I lacked the most as a child was a place to go where I felt like I belonged.' Vodianova had found her mission: to build playgrounds in underprivileged parts of Russia in order to provide other children with the carefree joy she had missed.




To date, she has built 90 playgrounds in Russia through Naked Heart, and she has expanded her horizons, helping to build three in the U.K. She has hosted fund-raising Love Balls in Moscow, London and outside of Paris, which have raised millions of dollars and attracted the likes of Anne Hathaway, Kate Moss, Mario Testino and Daphne Guinness. This year's ball, the fourth such extravaganza, will be held on July 27, at the Monaco opera house. Hosted by Prince Albert II and Princess Charlene of Monaco, along with Princess Caroline of Hanover, the event will be Vodianova's biggest ever: a 550-person sit-down dinner with a 1960s Riviera theme.


沃佳诺娃的第一批CK广告在2003年面世。她那比真人还大、性感撩人的照片铺天盖地地出现在了纽约苏豪(SoHo)区。一年以后，沃佳诺娃决定在她可观的财产里拨出一部分回馈社会，因而成立了自己的慈善基金。成立此基金的动力则是2004年在俄罗斯城市别斯兰发生的人质危机。那次危机造成了380人死亡，其中大部分是儿童。当时身在俄罗斯的她亲眼目睹了这场悲剧是如何对她本国同胞造成冲击的，她回忆道："新闻铺天盖地，整个国家都停滞了。"沃佳诺娃的长子卢卡斯当时三岁，许多年纪跟他一般大的孩子都被杀了。沃佳诺娃说："我细细思忖我从社会底层爬到有经济保障的顶端的这段经历。那种不公平感让我感到难过。"


But while her foundation has grown exponentially, Vodianova faced a personal hurdle of her own: a separation and divorce from Portman. They were together for nine years and, after Lucas, had a second son, Viktor, 7, and a daughter, Neva, 5. The couple separated in 2011, and she soon met Arnault, now the CEO of Berluti, at a fund-raiser for her charity at the designer Valentino's estate outside Paris, and began a new chapter. They now live together with Vodianova's three children, and she has immersed herself in Parisian life, even taking French lessons. 'I am very happy now,' she says of her love life, trying but failing to hide a smile.




It's easy to refer to her life as a modern-day fairy tale, but for Vodianova, it's a bittersweet comparison. 'On the one hand, I don't like it because my story was not defined by who I am dating, by some prince charming,' she asserts. 'I married for love. I work hard on being a good mother, and a good partner and in my profession. Those successes cannot be attributed to chance.' But there is one fairy tale that she's happy to be associated with: Alice in Wonderland. 'She took what was given to her and went with it. Go down the rabbit hole and see what life gives you. I can definitelyrelate to that!' she says. 'Besides, I never wanted to be Cinderella. I'd rather be Alice, and I'm happy I found my wonderland.'


到底做些什么才能有所助益呢？她左右为难，最后在自己的过往中找到了答案。沃佳诺娃的妹妹奥克萨娜从出生起便患有孤独症和大脑性瘫痪，她说："当回顾童年，我看到和残疾妹妹一起长大的自己是一个身处艰难境地的小女孩。我的童年非常不正常。我错失了最简单的东西。我时时刻刻要跟她黏在一起，（为此）我几乎也要变成残疾人了，因为我不能和自己的朋友一块儿玩耍。"当沃佳诺娃叙述往事时，眼睛泛起了泪花：""我有时感到羞耻。我们一天到晚在外面走来走去，因为她喜欢那样，但我们总是碰到对我们很恶劣的人。我记得我曾想过自己作为孩子最缺失的，那就是一个有归属感的地方。"沃佳诺娃找到了她的使命：在俄罗斯最贫困的地方建造游乐场，给孩子们提供那种她自己错失了的、无忧无虑的快乐。


DEREK BLASBERG

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