克里斯托弗•贝利(Christopher Bailey)能设计衣脚线。他的新任务是掌管盈亏底线。博柏利集团(Burberry Group PLC)周二宣布,创意总监贝利明年将接任这家英国奢侈品公司的首席执行长一职。
Christopher Bailey can design a hemline. His new task is to master the bottom line.
他将接替现任首席执行长阿伦茨(Angela Ahrendts)。阿伦茨被认为是振兴这个英国品牌的功臣,将于明年离任,转投苹果公司(Apple Inc.),负责其零售和在线销售业务。
Mr. Bailey, the
creative chief at Burberry Group PLC, will become chief
executive at the British
luxury house next year, the company said Tuesday.
贝利将继续担任设计师,从而处于不同寻常的地位,同时负责一家主要时尚品牌的创意和商业两个方面。
He will succeed Angela Ahrendts, the
executive credited with turning around the British brand who is leaving next year to lead Apple Inc.'s
retail and online sales operations.
这一举措是博柏利董事会的冒险押注,希望42岁的贝利能将他在秀场上的成功复制到商业上,延续博柏利在阿伦茨领导下实现的销售快速增长的势头。
Mr. Bailey will
retain his role as designer, putting him in the
unusual position of heading both the
creative and business sides of a major fashion label.
阿伦茨2006年加入博柏利之后振兴了这个品牌,该公司销售额增长了两倍以上,股价上涨近三倍。虽然贝利在博柏利任职已有12年(其中六年担任创意总监),对这个品牌有着彻底的了解,但他还没有作为高管接受过检验。
The move is a risky bet by Burberry's board that the 42-year-old can
translate his success on the runway into continuing the rapid sales growth Burberry has enjoyed under Ms. Ahrendts.
汇丰(HSBC)分析师拉姆伯格(Erwan Rambourg)说贝利已经证明了自己是一名卓越的设计师,但他作为CEO运营公司的能力还有待考验。
Since joining Burberry in 2006, Ms. Ahrendts has reinvigorated the brand, more than tripling sales and presiding over a near-quadrupling of the company's share price. Though he knows Burberry inside and out from his 12 years with the brand -- six years as
creative chief -- Mr. Bailey is untested as an executive.
投资者也持怀疑态度,博柏利在伦敦上市的股票价格收盘跌7.6%。花旗(Citi)分析师肖伟(Thomas Chauvet)说,CEO的更替将会抑制人们对该公司的热情。
'While Christopher Bailey has proven to be a phenomenal designer, the jury will be out in terms of him
running the company as CEO,' said HSBC analyst Erwan Rambourg.
博柏利说,董事会和高管团队将会支持贝利在创意方面的优势。
Investors were skeptical, too, sending Burberry shares down 7.6% in London at the market's close. Citi analyst Thomas Chauvet said the CEO change would 'curb enthusiasm' for the company.
阿伦茨在一份声明中说,我相信在(董事长庄贝思(John Peace))持续的指导和高管团队的支持下,贝利作为这一代最具远见的人之一将会继续领导博柏利攀上新的高峰。
Burberry said the board and
executive team would bolster Mr. Bailey's
creative strengths.
贝利在周二发布的一个视频中说,能够担任创新、设计与创意方面的总监,并将这方面与我们企业的商业面结合,让它们更为统一,对我来说这是极度令人兴奋的事情。
'I am
confident that, with [Chairman John Peace's] continued
guidance and the
executive team's support, Christopher, as one of this generation's greatest visionaries, will continue to lead Burberry to new heights,' Ms. Ahrendts said in a statement.
贝利和阿伦茨拒绝进一步置评。
'It is a complete
thrill for me to be able to take that innovation, design and
creative head and to marry it with the
commerce side of our business to become even more united,' Mr. Bailey said in a video released Tuesday.
三个月前,博柏利首席财务长卡特赖特(Stacey Cartwright)在任职九年后离职另谋高就。她迄今尚未公开宣布新职位。接替卡特赖特的是内部人选费尔韦瑟(Carol Fairweather),后者周二说,贝利拥有极其敏锐的商业头脑,他在新职位上将得到现有创意团队以及与之共事的长期管理团队的支持。
Mr. Bailey and Ms. Ahrendts declined to
comment further.
博柏利是奢侈行业规模最大的企业之一,在全球有500多家销售点,从自己的精品店到商场铺位。其产品也囊括了从知名的风衣到香水的众多类别。博柏利不久前将香水业务收回,此前多年这项业务一直由特许合作伙伴经营。
Three months ago Burberry
finance chief Stacey Cartwright left after nine years to
pursue other interests. So far, she hasn't
publicly announced a new position. She was succeeded by an
internal candidate, Carol Fairweather, who said Tuesday that Mr. Bailey has 'an
incredibly sharp
commercial mind and he will be supported in his new role both within the existing
creative team and
workingalongside the
management teams that have been in place for a long time now.'
贝利每年为博柏利举行四场时装秀。
Burberry is one of the biggest businesses in the
luxury sector, with more than 500 points of sale globally, from its own boutiques to spaces in department stores. Its products range from its
well-knowntrench coats to
perfume -- a business that Burberry recently took back in house after years of entrusting it to a license partner.
这一任命显示出时装设计师的角色不断变化。他们曾经被视为疯狂的艺术家,在过去10年中,这个群体逐渐成为品牌形象的守护者——在很多情况下,设计师负责从服装和时装秀到广告及店面设计的所有事务。例如,伊夫· 罗兰(Yves Saint Laurent)的设计师斯理曼(Hedi Slimane)今年就承担了额外的职责,负责这个巴黎品牌所有的战略项目。
Mr. Bailey stages four fashion shows a year for the house.
另外两位知名设计师也执掌着公司大权:拉夫•劳伦(Ralph Lauren)和乔治• 阿玛尼(Giorgio Armani)。
The appointment underscores the changing
profile of fashion designers. In the past decade, they have gone from being regarded as frenzied artists to guardians of a brand's image -- in many cases, overseeing everything from clothing and fashion shows to
advertising and store design. Yves Saint Laurent
designer Hedi Slimane, for example, was given the
additional job of supervising all strategic projects at the Parisian label this year.
但不同于贝利的是,这两人都是创业家,白手起家创建了自己的时装品牌。阿玛尼和劳伦在创意和商业方面都得到了优秀团队的支持。
Two other high-profile designers also occupy the corner office: Ralph Lauren and Giorgio Armani.