吃东西属于"咬碎型"还是"含化型"?有的人很喜欢那种"咬碎"薄脆饼干或者薯片时的嘎吱声。而有的人却很享受"含化"巧克力慕斯时的那种丝滑感。
Are you a cruncher? Or a 'smoosher'?
食品公司正密切关注着消费者的口感偏好,因为这种偏好决定了新产品是否具有在商店货架上脱颍而出的特质。食品开发商把特定的口感特质放在他们想要展现的列表顶部,并在包装中说明,强调这种"口感"。
Some people crave the
perfectly crispy crunch of a
cracker or a salty chip. Others yearn for the silky smoothness of a chocolate mousse.
杰克·福特纳姆(Jack Fortnum)说,口感"在许多情况下和味道一样重要"。福特纳姆是Ingredion公司的北美区业务的总裁。位于伊利诺伊州威彻斯特(Westchester)的Ingredion公司是一家食品配料加工公司,它们每年都负责数百种消费者口味的测试。它声称测试甚至能够帮助客户校准新产品究竟能够产生多少嘎吱声。据荷兰的伊诺市场分析(Innova Market Insights)的数据称,在2012年,全球共有20,790个新食品包装中有对口感的说明,比起2008年,数量增加接近一倍。
Food companies are paying closer attention to consumer's
texture preferences as they drill down on attributes that make new products stand out on store shelves. Food developers are putting
specific textures at the top of the list of traits they want to achieve, and they are emphasizing 'mouth feel' in descriptions on packaging.
为了创造出那种让20出头男性所喜爱的"尖锐的嘎吱声",百事公司(PepsiCo)旗下的菲多利(Frito-Lay)在去年为多力多滋(Doritos)推出了更大、更厚的薯片。酸奶厂商乔巴尼公司(Chobani)一月推出的Chobani Flip,将一包干果和酸奶结合,干果包括了烤杏仁,全麦饼干片和脯氨酸山核桃。
Texture 'is just as important as taste or flavor, in many cases,' says Jack Fortnum, president of the North American business at Ingredion Inc., a Westchester, Ill., food-ingredient processor that holds hundreds of
consumer taste tests a year. It says the tests can, for example, help clients calibrate the
preciseamount of crunch in a new product. There were 20,790 new food packages world-wide making a
texture claim in 2012,
roughly double the number in 2008, according to Netherlands-based Innova Market Insights.
有的公司把不同的口感结合起来,例如在饮品中加入咀嚼感。卡尔斯巴德(Carlsbad)是一家位于加利福尼亚州的有机能量果汁品牌,它提供的九种"能量"饮料都将果肉种子加入了果汁中。
To build on the 'tooth-rattling crunch' it says 20-something males crave, PepsiCo's Frito-Lay unit launched bigger and thicker chips last year for its Doritos' Jacked line. Yogurt maker Chobani Inc. in January launched Chobani Flip, which pairs a
combination of ingredients including toasted almonds, graham-cracker pieces and praline pecans with a yogurt cup.
消费者研究员杰奎琳·贝克利(Jacqueline Beckley)和梅丽莎·杰特玛(Melissa Jeltema)说消费者对不同食品的口感偏好背后还蕴藏着"尚未表达的需求"。
Some companies are combining textures, adding crunch or chew to drinks. Carlsbad, Calif.-based Mamma Chia offers nine 'vitality' beverages that
suspend whole chia seeds in fruit juice.
这两位研究人员分别是位于新泽西州登维尔(Denville)"理解与洞悉机构(Understanding and Insight Group)"的创办人和副总裁。该机构于12月份对500名消费者进行了研究调查,研究人员会给消费者看一些图片并记录他们的反应,比如有的人说:"我最喜欢能让我含化的食物,连那些可以咀嚼的食物我都会含着吃。"(根据两位研究人员的定义,"含化"是一种不用牙齿,而用舌头和口腔上壁摆弄食物的方式。)
Consumer researchers Jacqueline Beckley and Melissa Jeltema say there may be 'unexpressed need' behind people's preferences for different food textures.
他们发现一般可以将消费者分为四类喜爱不同口感和"食用方式"的群体。其中所占比重最大的是"咀嚼型",占了总数的43%,他们都很享受那种在吃东西,比如吃一块软饼干时那种长时间的咀嚼过程。
The two researchers,
founder and vice president, respectively, at Understanding and Insight Group, of Denville, N.J.,
studied 500 consumers in December, showing them photos of foods and recording their responses to statements such as 'I like foods that I can smoosh. I even smoosh foods that I can chew.' (Smooshing, according to the two researchers, is a way of manipulating food between the tongue and roof of the mouth without using the teeth.)
"咬碎型"占了33%,他们喜欢咬下去的那种声音和力度,就像吃硬麦片一样。"含化型"占了16%,他们喜欢那种柔顺、丝滑的感觉,比如吃甜品和土豆泥的感觉。"吸吮型"占了8%,他们喜欢那种可长时间吸吮的硬糖。杰特玛说:"如果公司明白了他们之间的区别,就能针对不同类型的人设计出不同的产品。"
Consumers, they found, fall generally into one of four major categories of
texturepreference and 'mouth behavior.' 'Chewers,' the biggest group at 43%, enjoy the prolonged chewing action involved in eating, say, a soft cookie.
许多公司认为对口感的偏爱表达了消费者对吃东西的不同的情感需求。菲多利的创新副总裁克里丝汀·卡尔文尼斯(Christine Kalvenes)说:"如果今天心情不好,人们更喜欢吃脆脆的东西,而不是把柔滑的食物放进嘴里。这会有助于情绪的舒缓。"而到了晚上的时候,人们往往会更喜欢"一种丝滑的感觉。"
'Crunchers,' at 33%, favor the sound and force of a bite, as with hard granola bars. 'Smooshers,' at 16%, are into the smooth and
creamy feeling, whether from a sweet
dessert or mashed potatoes. And 'suckers,' at 8%, prefer the long-lasting hard-candy experience. 'Companies, if they understood these differences, could better develop particular products for different groups,' Dr. Jeltema says.
卡尔文尼斯说,对于多力多滋"加大号"产品,菲多利想要取悦其核心消费人群——20岁出头的男性,他们在吃零食方面"永远都在寻找另一个更有冲击性的食物"。公司尽最大可能增加了薯片的厚度和宽度,他们把薯片加大加厚了40%,并声称有一种"直入你耳膜的嘎吱声",卡尔文尼斯说,"它会在你的嘴里碎成小片并持续发出嘎吱声。"
Many companies see
texture as a way to address consumers'
emotional reasons for eating. 'If it's been a more stressful day, a person will eat crunchy things that
compact into smoother things in your mouth,' says Christine Kalvenes, vice president of
innovation for Frito-Lay. 'That helps with that
emotional transition.' In the late evening, a person may want to 'come down into a more smoothing moment.'
卡尔文尼斯说,如果你"追求的是舒适感和丝滑感,那么就别吃多力多滋。"
For the Doritos 'Jacked' line, Frito-Lay wanted to
appease its core consumers, 20-something men, who are 'always looking for the next bolder thing' in snacking, Ms. Kalvenes says. The company explored how thick it could go with the chip, and how big. They settled on a chip that was 40% bigger and thicker and provided a crunch that 'rattles all the way through your ears,' Ms. Kalvenes said. 'It breaks into little shards in your mouth that continue to crunch all the way through.'
趣多多(Chips Ahoy!)公司旗下的Chewy Gooey饼干专为喜爱咀嚼型饼干的爱好者增加了超软的口感。趣多多生产商亿兹国际(Mondelez International Inc.)的消费者策略高级总监阿梅莉亚·斯特罗贝尔(Amelia Strobel)说:"有的人想要一种更柔软的口感,但又能有点小惊喜。"
You 'don't eat Doritos when you want to be comforted and soothed,' Ms. Kalvenes adds.
亿兹国际说,美国中西区的人喜欢软饼干而东北区的人喜欢硬饼干。2011年,这家公司重塑了"夹层"这个概念,他们在巧克力薯片饼干中加入了一种超软的填充物。
Chips Ahoy! Chewy Gooey cookies offer an extra-soft
texture for chewy-cookie lovers. 'There are people that ...wanted more of a softer
texture but with a little bit of surprise,' says Amelia Strobel,
seniordirector of
consumer insights and
strategy for Chips Ahoy! maker Mondelez International Inc.
趣多多的Chewy Gooey饼干在2011年的时候推出了巧克力软糖和超大软糖夹层的饼干。去年还推出了焦糖夹层,上个月又新增了布朗尼口味。斯特罗贝尔说,这些饼干夹心让饼干退出了放学后的小吃名单。"它让你的嘴巴更舒适,让你更想在晚上加点餐。"
Midwesterners prefer soft cookies while Northeasterners prefer hard cookies, Mondelez says. In 2011, the company developed a
concept it dubbed 'middle'-a chocolate-chip
cookie with an extra-soft filling.
德国糖果制造商August Storck KG旗下的硬糖品牌维特太妃糖(Werther's Original)是了解"吸吮型"爱好者的专家。市场部总监基利·库克(Keely Cook)说,吸吮糖果能够"强迫你放松下来"。硬糖爱好者喜欢转动糖果,让口腔充分感受糖衣的包裹。库克说:"这是他们释放压力的方式"。这个月,维特还会发布一款无糖的焦糖巧克力口味。
The result, Chips Ahoy! Chewy Gooey cookies, launched in 2011 with
美国通用磨坊有限公司(General Mills Inc. )最近把新产品的重心放在了不吃早餐的人身上,一组最近公布的数据显示,18至34岁的人群中竟有接近四分之一的人不吃早餐。市场经理贝齐·弗罗斯特(Betsy Frost)说:"他们希望能获得相当于吃一碗牛奶加麦片的营养,但是又不想在车上或者化妆的过程中吃。"
Chocofudge and Megafudge fillings; Caramel was added last year and Brownie last month. The fillings move the cookies out of after-school snack territory, Ms. Strobel says. 'The way it coats your mouth a little more, it tends to pull you a little more into an evening treat.'
公司曾经考虑过"早餐棒"这个主意。但他们把早餐棒变成了一种液体饮料,既能吃饱又有营养。她说:"我们推出的口感比较集中,大致符合'含化型'爱好者的口感,而'填充物'代表了它较高的浓稠度。但是当我们向消费者推荐一种更浓的奶昔时,他们并不喜欢。"
Werther's Original, a hard-candy line from German confectioner August Storck KG, knows all about suckers. Sucking on candy 'forces you to take a moment to wind down,' says Kelly Cook,
director of marketing. Hard-candy lovers tend to roll the candy around, letting the
flavor coat the inside of the mouth. 'This is their
stress relief,' Ms. Cook says. This month, Werther's is launching a Sugar-Free Caramel Chocolate flavor.
太浓的奶昔并不适合用吸管来吸。弗罗斯特说:"太费劲了!"通用磨坊今年推出的叫做Bfast的奶昔就没那么浓稠,可以不用吸管,还有巧克力、草莓和香草口味。包装盒上写着"可大口大口喝。"
General Mills Inc. recently turned its new-product focus to the
surprising statistic that about a quarter of 18- to 34-year-olds don't eat breakfast, making them part of the larger population of 'breakfast skippers.' 'They want the
nutrition of a bowl of
cereal and milk, but want to take it in the car or have it while they are doing their makeup,' says Betsy Frost, marketing manager.
25岁的路易吉·德帕斯切莱(Luigi DePasquale)是波士顿洛根机场一家商店的总监,他说他定在凌晨三点半的闹铃就说明自己是肯定没时间吃早餐了。他说,他在一次推广活动中试了Bfast,然后就"迅速爱上了它"。"它尝起来有点像浓稠版的巧克力牛奶。"对于早晨来说,其他口味就没那么有吸引力了。
The company considered the idea of a breakfast bar. Then came the idea for a
liquid drink, something satiating and nutritious. 'We came up with a tight range [of texture]. 'Smooth' was within this range, and 'filling' meant a little more thickness,' she says. 'But when we gave [consumers] a thicker shake, they didn't like it.'
"营养棒会让你嘴巴干干的,而很多其它品牌的营养奶昔的营养物都沉底了。"
The shake proved to be too thick to drink through a straw. 'Too much work,' Ms. Frost says. The shake General Mills launched this year, called Bfast, is less thick, strawless and
available in chocolate, berry and
vanilla flavors. The boxes say, 'Chug it.'
Diamond Foods 旗下的翡翠坚果(Emerald Nuts)在2011年的时候推出了谷物类食品便携式早餐(Breakfast On the Go),独立包装的坚果类食物包括燕麦片、干果和巧克力外壳的浓咖啡豆。试验花了他们两年的时间来。Diamond Foods坚果类食品的高级副总裁克雷格·德里(Craig Tokusato)说:"我们试图找到最合适的方案。最适合的咀嚼度以及最适合的嘎吱声。"
Luigi DePasquale, 25, a store
supervisor at Logan Airport in Boston, says his 3:30 a.m. alarm usually means he skips breakfast. He tried the Bfast shakes in a
promotion and 'fell in love with them,' he says. 'It's like a thick chocolate milk.' Other textures are less appealing in the morning, he says. 'Protein bars make your mouth dry, and a lot of
protein shakes have that grit at the bottom.'
随着希腊酸奶的热卖,超级市场里的酸奶区也有了更多选择,无论是搅拌食品、奶油制品还是饮料。达能集团(Groupe Danone)旗下的石原(Stonyfield)推出了"混合型"酸奶,其产品调研及发展部经理埃米·埃尔克斯(Amy Elkes)说,它没希腊酸奶这么粘稠但又比普通的酸奶要浓。想要找到一种描述这种口感的方式本身就很有挑战。她说:"我们最初用'丝滑'或者其他类似的词语来形容,但最后还是用了'浓稠又丝滑'。"
Diamond Foods' Emerald Nuts entered the
cereal aisle in 2011 with Breakfast On the Go, single-serve packets of nuts with things like granola bits, dried fruit and chocolate-covered espresso beans. It took two years of experimenting. 'We were
trying to find the Goldilocks solution,' says Craig Tokusato,
senior vice president for nuts at Diamond Foods. 'What's the right level of chew, what's the right level of crunch.'