真的吃了那么多曲奇吗?即使你自己不知道答案,包装食品生产商也应该是知道的。他们知道人们一天要吃很多零食,所以不断地推出新的包装,鼓励消费者一有咀嚼欲望便吃他们生产的食品。一些包装食品企业管理者将此称为"信手拈来"(hand-to-mouth)的吃法。
Did you really eat that many cookies?
包装对零食食用习惯的影响体现了复杂的心理学。有时候小份量的食品可能会促使你吃得更多。精明的零食厂商可以从中侦测到一些线索。
Packaged-food makers might know the answer, even if you don't. Aware that people snack a lot throughout the day, they continue to introduce new packaging that encourages consumers to eat their food
anytime they have an urge to nibble, what some executives have dubbed 'hand-to-mouth' eating.
好时食品公司(Hershey Co.)了解到,给一口一个的糖果裹上单独的包装纸会妨碍人们在特定场合下的食用,比如在开车的时候。于是这家公司为其经典产品"里氏花生黄油杯"(Reese's Peanut Butter Cup)推出了采用自封袋包装的小型无糖纸版本"里氏迷你"(Reese's Minis)。好时公司高级副总裁、首席成长官米歇尔•巴克(Michele Buck)说,这种包装适于"那种在路上扔一颗到嘴里的食用方式"。
The
psychology behind how this affects eating
behavior is complicated. Sometimes small amounts of food could drive you to eat more. There are cues savvy snackers can detect.
好时最近推出了"Rolo迷你"、"Twizzlers一小口"和"Jolly Rancher一小口",也就是对应品牌糖果用自封袋包装的小型版本,它们都属于好时所称的"信手拈来系列"。据尼尔森公司(Nielsen)为好时编制的数据,2012年无糖纸迷你巧克力销售额较上年增长14%,远高于有糖纸迷你巧克力4%的增长率。好时将在5月份推出"Kit Kat迷你"。
Hershey Co.
learned that individual wrappers on bite-size candy were getting in the way of people eating candy in certain settings, like in the car. The company responded with Reese's Minis, a small, unwrapped
version of its
classic Reese's Peanut Butter Cup, in a resealable bag. It facilitates 'I-can-pop-one-in-my-mouth, on-the-go type of behavior,' says Michele Buck,
senior vice president and chief growth officer for Hershey.
包装的影响力之大,哪怕是一个小小的暗示,似乎也能让人停下嘴来。在2012年的一次研究中,研究人员给看电视的大学生吃乐事(Lay's)的Stax薯片,有些学生的薯片筒里隔几片薯片就有一片为红色,而有些学生拿到的则是没有放入红色薯片的普通薯片筒。结果拿到装有红着片的薯片筒的学生食用量还不到拿到普通薯片筒学生食用量的一半,后来被问的时候,他们对自己食用量的描述也更加准确。该研究论文发表在《健康心理学》(Health Psychology)上,第一作者安德鲁•盖尔(Andrew Geier)说,"人工障碍"有助于食用者决定什么时候停嘴。
As part of what the company calls its 'hand-to-mouth platform,' it recently introduced Rolo Minis, Twizzlers Bites and Jolly Rancher Bites -- all small versions of the candies in resealable bags. Sales of unwrapped
miniature chocolate rose about 14% in 2012 compared with the
previous year, far faster than the 4% growth of miniature, wrapped chocolates, according to Nielsen data compiled for Hershey. Kit Kat Minis are coming in May.
盖尔博士说,当包装很大、明显不是一人份的量时,吃完整袋才停下来的欲望似乎会有所减弱。
Packaging is so
influential that even a subtle hint seems to nudge people to stop eating. Researchers fed college students watching television Lay's Stax with a red chip placed at various intervals throughout the canister in a 2012 study. Some students got regular canisters without any red chips. Students given canisters with red chips ate less than half the
amount than those without red chips. When questioned later they also more
accurately described how much they ate. An 'artificial barrier' helps eaters decide when to stop, says Andrew Geier, lead author of the study published in Health Psychology.
多年来,人们的饮食习惯中包括了越来越多的随身零食。自多年前小袋薯片及盒装椒盐卷饼问世以来,人们的选择面已经大大拓宽。塔吉特公司(Target Corp.)推出了多联包装的一人份冻干水果和燕麦棒。Sabra Dipping Co.是施特劳斯集团(Strauss Group)和百事公司(PepsiCo Inc.)共同成立的合资公司,该公司首席营销长肯•孔茨(Ken Kunze)说,更小的包装似乎对鹰嘴豆泥的消费量起到了推动作用,而鹰嘴豆泥"并不是美国人饮食中的一个重要固定组成部分"。该公司推出了以"拿来就走"的份量出售的鹰嘴豆泥和萨尔萨辣酱,也就是搭配了椒盐卷饼或薯片的杯式包装。其后,它还推出了两盎司(约合57克)装的杯装鹰嘴豆泥。
The urge to eat to the bottom of a bag appears to wane when a
package is so large it is clearly not a single serving size, Dr. Geier says.
康奈尔大学(Cornell University)食品与品牌实验室(Food and Brand Lab)主任布里安•万森克(Brian Wansink)一直在研究份量和包装对消费的影响。在他做的一次实验当中,研究人员给了一些电影观众两周前生产的爆米花。拿到大桶的观众的食用量比拿到中桶的观众多了34%,尽管他们说爆米花"不新鲜了"、"难吃"。该研究显示,在获赠新鲜爆米花的观众当中,拿到大桶的人的食用量相比拿到中桶的人高出的量更多。
For years people have been shifting their eating habits to include more snacks on the go. Their options have expanded exponentially since the
introduction of small bags of potato chips or pretzels for lunchboxes years ago. Target Corp. is putting foods like freeze-dried fruit and granola bars into single-serving multi-packs. Smaller packs appear to be boosting
consumption of hummus, 'not a
staple of the American diet,' says Ken Kunze, chief marketing officer for Sabra Dipping Co., a joint
venture between Strauss Group and PepsiCo Inc. The company offers its hummus and salsa in 'Grab and Go' portions, small cups paired with pretzels or chips. More recently it introduced two-ounce hummus cups.
人们非常不善于判断该在什么时候停嘴。如果一碗或一袋食物看上去应该就是一顿或一人份,那么他们就会一直吃到碗或袋子见底。学者将这种行为称为"单位偏见"(unit bias)。纽约市市长迈克尔•布隆伯格(Michael Bloomberg)最近就以类似的行为倾向为由,来解释他为什么尝试限制大包装糖类软饮料的份量。
Brian Wansink,
director of Cornell University's Food and Brand Lab, studies how size and packaging
affect consumption. In one experiment of his, moviegoers given two-week old popcorn ate 34% more from large buckets than out of medium-size buckets while describing it as 'stale' and 'terrible.' The study showed that those served fresh popcorn ate even more out of the larger buckets.
某些类型的食用者,即担心自己的外貌或天生不善于控制饮食的人们会觉得,一口一个的食物属于"零卡路里"。法国欧洲工商管理学院(Insead)研究饮食行为的营销学教授皮埃尔•尚东(Pierre Chandon)说,这样认为的话,他们的食量往往会大过吃普通份量食物的时候。
People are woefully inept at
knowing when to hit the brakes with food. They eat to the bottom of the bowl or bag if that seems like a
logical meal or
portion size, a
behavior dubbed 'unit bias' by academics. New York City Mayor Michael Bloomberg recently cited similar behavioral tendencies as a reason for his attempt to
restrict the size of large, sugary soft drinks.
他说:"25卡路里算不上什么,于是我们在咀嚼的时候就没觉得自己在吃。"
Certain types of eaters -- people who are
concerned about how they look or who aren't naturally good at controlling their eating -- see bite-size pieces of food as 'zero calories.' In doing so, they tend to eat more than a regular-sized
version of the food, says Pierre Chandon, a marketing professor who studies eating
behavior at Insead, an
international business school based in France.
小包装可以让冲动性的饮食行为慢下来。尚东说,"你或许会想,'等等,我不该吃两袋的'",因为你得打开一个新的包装或糖纸。
'Twenty-five calories is not a serving, so we
nibble without thinking we are eating,' he says.
但好时公司的高管说,他们的"信手拈来"产品之所以提升了公司的销量,是因为人们食用该公司糖果的频率更高,但每一次的食用量倒不一定增加了。好时发言人说,让消费者喜欢的一点是自封袋帮助他们免去了撕开小糖纸的麻烦,也不会让糖果撒出来、在车里或口袋里乱滚。自封袋包装通常会让消费者觉得产品能保鲜更长时间。
Small packages of food can slow down
impulsive eating. 'You might think, 'Oh wait, I'm not
supposed to eat two of them,'' because you have to open a new
package or wrapper, Mr. Chandon says.
研究人员说,目前还不清楚自封袋对食用行为有何影响,但它有可能鼓励食用者降低食用速度,因为他们知道自己应该留下一些过段时间再吃。沃尔格林公司(Walgreen Co.)表示,今夏其Nice品牌坚果的包装将从罐头换为自封袋。该公司负责国际合作的副总裁吉姆•詹森(Jim Jensen)说,有些消费者吃得比较少是因为他们"打开袋子、倒出来一些然后把袋子重新封上,而另一些人则说,打开袋子很容易,那我全部都吃了吧"。
But Hershey executives say their 'hand-to-mouth' products are boosting company sales because people eat their candy more often, not
necessarily more each time. Consumers like that the products with resealable packages help them avoid tiny wrappers or spilled candy rolling around the floor of cars or in purses, a spokeswoman for the company says. When consumers see a resealable pack they often think the product will stay fresh longer.
家住新泽西州怀恩市(Wayne)的高中体育教师克里丝蒂•卢里达斯(Kristy Louridas)在高强度锻炼或吃过晚餐之后,就会伸手从自封袋里抓取"里氏迷你"来满足自己的甜食瘾。卢里达斯说:"当我想吃甜食的时候,糖纸就是一件麻烦事。"她后来又说:"我可能比一般情况下吃得多多了。"
Researchers say it is unclear how resealability affects eating behavior, but it could
encourage eaters to slow down because they know they are
supposed to save some for later. Walgreen Co. says it will shift its Nice brand nuts from canisters to resealable bags this summer. Some consumers eat less because they 'open it, dump it out and reseal it,' says Jim Jensen, vice president of global partnerships at Walgreens. 'Others would say that it was quite easy to open and say I'm just going to eat the whole thing.'
她说,袋子已经打开,"就像薯片一样,伸手即得,可以有一搭没一搭地吃"。
Kristy Louridas is a high-school
physical education teacher who reaches for Reese's Minis in resealable bags to satisfy her sweet tooth after hard workouts or dinner. 'When I am ready to get that fix those wrappers are just an inconvenience,' says the Wayne, N.J., resident, later adding, 'I'm probably eating a lot more than I
normally would.'
Sarah Nassauer
The bag is already 'open. It's just like potato chips. It's fair game. It's mindless,' she says.
Sarah Nassauer