Who is that in the front row at New York Fashion Week? A movie star? A teen heartthrob? A Real Housewife?
都有谁在纽约时装周(New York Fashion Week)的第一排就坐?电影明星?少年万人迷?"真实主妇"(The Real Housewife)真人秀成员?
答案是:皆有可能。
Try all of the above.
时尚界旧有的狭小圈子已经拓展了他们对于"显要人物"的定义,所谓"显要人物"是指那些被认为有资格在时装秀前排占有一席之地的人。这些位子曾经是专为顶级时尚杂志编辑、百货公司奢侈品采购员以及一些一线明星保留的,如今则逐渐可以看到宣传期的电视女演员、真人秀名人与人气博主的身影。
艾莉森•布罗德公关公司(Alison Brod Public Relations)的创始人艾莉森•布罗德(Alison Brod)说,"举办一场秀实在太复杂了!如今我们还是去火星上排座比较好,因为在地球上有太多事要考虑。"她已经连续十五年为时装周而忙碌了。
Fashion's historically closed
circle has expanded its
definition of 'notables,' the people considered
worthy of a front-row seat at a fashion show. Spots once reserved for top magazine editors,
luxury department-store buyers and the
occasional A-list
celebrity have been infiltrated by publicity-seeking TV actresses,
reality show personalities and over-the-top bloggers.
设计师辛西娅•洛蕾(Cynthia Rowley)邀请了奥斯卡提名女演员阿比吉尔•布莱斯林(Abigail Breslin)入座她上一季时装秀的前排,与她一同出现在镜头里的有出演TNT电视台"都市侠盗"(Leverage)剧集的贝丝•涅斯格拉夫(Beth Riesgraf)、前MTV真人秀"Run的家庭生活"(Run's House)中的安吉拉•西蒙斯(Angela Simmons),以及出演NBC音乐剧"粉碎"(Smash)的梅根•希尔提(Megan Hilty)。在丹尼斯•贝索(Dennis Basso)的秀场上则出现了一个不搭调的四人组合:喜剧演员琼•里弗斯(Joan Rivers),肥皂剧女星苏珊•露西(Susan Lucci),美国地产大亨唐纳德•特朗普(Donald Trump)的千金伊万卡(Ivanka),以及前MTV真人秀明星克里斯汀•卡维拉莉(Kristin Cavallari)。
随着玩家的日益增多,这个新游戏越发没有了明确的规则,天晓得谁会占据黄金席位,谁又会被挤走。"公民革命"品牌公司(People's Revolution)的创始人凯利•卡托尼(Kelly Cutrone)说,"这个人的垃圾是另一个人的宝贝......在某个秀场的前排位置就坐的,或许是在其他秀场遭到拒绝的人。"卡托尼本人也因为担任全美超模大赛(America's Next Top Model)的裁判等原因而广为人知。上一季杰瑞米•斯科特(Jeremy Scott)的秀场上,卡托尼排出了魔幻的三人组合:迪斯尼频道(Disney Channel)乔纳斯兄弟组合(Jonas Brothers)中的乔•乔纳斯(Joe Jonas),当红DJ丽•乐扎克(Leigh Lezark)以及充满争议的时尚摄影师泰利•理查森(Terry Richardson)同坐一排。卡托尼看到秀场的成片后说,"他们三个坐在那儿,就说明了一切。"
'It's
incredibly more complicated. We may as well be seating shows on Mars right now because there's so much to think about,' says Alison Brod,
founder of Alison Brod Public Relations, who has been
working with fashion week for 15 years.
行家说,头排大事,不能出错。保罗•威尔莫特传播公司(Paul Wilmot Communications)负责为雷姆•阿克拉(Reem Acra)和克里斯蒂安•西里亚诺(Christian Siriano)等品牌的秀场排座,该公司合伙人汉普顿•卡尼(Hampton Carney)说,在模特出场前,许多到场者就以出席者的分量来评判一场秀。他将这工作等同于为"一场盛大的婚礼或华丽的晚宴聚会"排座。
设计师通常会请公关公司来帮助他们安排时装秀的各项事宜以及座位的分配。设计师的团队则负责修正与拍板。据HL Group联合创始人及合伙人琳•泰索罗(Lynn Tesoro)介绍,在纽约时装周众多"非请勿来"的秀场上,头排座位通常只有125个。一些设计师为了能容纳更多席位,不惜加长或改建T台。比如,由HL Group负责的玛切萨(Marchesa)的本季秀场就有224个VIP座位。即便如此,也无法使人人满意,因为有时候延伸区域里某些位子的看秀视角甚至更好。
Designer Cynthia Rowley hosted Abigail Breslin, the Oscar-nominated actress, in the front row of her show last season, where she was photographed with Beth Riesgraf of the TNT drama 'Leverage,' Angela Simmons of the former MTV
realityseries 'Run's House' and Megan Hilty of the NBC
musical show 'Smash.' An
unlikely quartet lined the front row at Dennis Basso's show:
comedian Joan Rivers, soap star Susan Lucci, Donald Trump's daughter Ivanka and former MTV
reality star Kristin Cavallari.
公关公司同时负责嘉宾的邀请。泰索罗说,现在的联络信息都是在互联网上广泛地共享,办秀的消息一经媒体传出,各种提出出席的要求马上会多到爆炸,"这是一场剧烈的猛攻"。
急于谋取最佳位置的是那些想要出席看秀的明星们的宣传人员。而设计师们通常会对一线明星大献殷情──奥运会的人气运动员也是今年的热门人选──有时候甚至会付钱邀请他们来看秀。相反的,知名度不足的小角色就需费劲心力争取一席之地。比如说,对于一个需要为其出演的新剧寻求更多关注的不知名演员来说,今年九月的纽约秀场就是极佳的宣传时间。
In this new game, with its ever-growing list of players, there are no hard and fast rules about who gets a prime space and who is turned away. 'One man's
garbage is another man's treasure . . . a front row at one show might be a declined at another show,' says Kelly Cutrone,
founder of the branding firm People's Revolution and a
personality in her own right, known, among other things, for her judging stint on 'America's Next Top Model.'
公关公司需要确保他们邀请到的嘉宾符合设计师品牌的气质。泰索罗说她的团队会询问嘉宾目前正在做的活动项目,接下去会做什么,为何需要媒体曝光,等等。当然,最终还是设计师本人说了算。她说,"你必须确保每个人都能从中收获点儿什么。"
明星们如果接二连三地参加不同的时装秀常会招致不满。每一个设计师都希望某明星的首次亮相是在自己的秀场。保罗•威尔莫特公司的卡尼说,这是最令人兴奋的拍照时点。他还补充道,如果一个人将会出席在我们这一场之前的众多场秀的话,"也许我们就会放弃邀请她(他)了"。
Ms. Cutrone helped put together an
unusual trio at Jeremy Scott's show last season: Joe Jonas, of Disney Channel and Jonas Brothers fame, sat
alongside edgy DJ Leigh Lezark and Terry Richardson, a fashion photographer known for risque images. 'That three-shot says it all,' Ms. Cutrone says of the resulting photograph.
真人秀明星的受欢迎程度在近几季里暴涨。一些一度遭轻视甚而被拒之门外的人物,包括"真实主妇"真人秀中的几位成员,如今都在一部分品牌的受邀之列。布罗德说,一个设计师可以为一位真人秀明星提供前排座位,甚至是为其提供服装。但是这明星待遇或许转瞬即逝。"任何事情都可能发生,她在上一周的秀场上突然间的举止失常就会令我们改变主意。"
通常来说明星要人会聚集在中间位置就坐,以便摄影师可以将他们都纳入镜头当中。记者则通常与他们隔着T台坐在对面。卡托尼说,"你永远也不会希望记者听到他们在聊什么。"
Make no mistake, experts say, the front row matters. Before the first look comes down the catwalk, many attendees judge a show based on who can be seen attending, says Hampton Carney, a
partner at Paul Wilmot Communications, which is handling seating for shows such as Reem Acra and Christian Siriano. He equates the job with seating 'a really great
wedding or a
fabulous dinner party.'
被安排与巨星比肩而坐的,往往是一些最不可能去打扰名人的人,例如香烛品牌Vie Luxe创始人马乔里•古贝尔曼(Marjorie Gubelmann)。在王薇薇(Vera Wang)上一季的秀上,她被安排坐在了好莱坞一线女星蕾妮•齐薇格(Renee Zellweger)与"绯闻女孩"(Gossip Girl)女星莉顿•梅斯特(Leighton Meester)之间。她说,"太棒了,我幸福得快要死掉了。"在另一场王薇薇的秀场,她坐在了碧昂斯(Beyonce)的旁边。她说,"这是真正的大牌。"
坐在靠近T台尽头的位置、与一群摄影师比邻的几乎永远是"时尚"杂志(Vogue)的主编安娜•温图尔(Anna Wintour)和一些重要的媒体的代表。那里是与模特正面接触时间最长、视角最清晰的地方。
Designers typically hire PR firms to help with their fashion shows and handle seating assignments; the designer's team makes revisions and provides the final sign-off. Among the dozens of invitation-only shows at New York Fashion Week, the average front row will have about 125 assigned seats, says Lynn Tesoro, co-founder and
partner at HL Group.
一些具有影响力、能够引导购买倾向的时尚博主们正成为时装周新势力。卡尼举了The Man Repeller博主莉安德拉•梅丁(Leandra Medine)的例子,"如果她带着什么东西,或是被拍到穿着某一品牌的产品,几乎可以确保这些单品会被抢购一空。她的影响力真是惊人。"
公关公司会有专人监督秀场的每一个区域。这位专职人员必须得知道前两排位子都指定给了谁,还得负责确保这些位子最终有正确的人落座。
Some designers
lengthen their runways or reconfigure to include more front-row seats. The Marchesa show, for which HL Group is handling seating, has 224 this season. Even that doesn't satisfy everyone: Some sections of an
extended front row are considered better than others, in part because they offer a better view of the clothes.
那么要如何应对一个冒充时尚编辑的秀场不速之客,或是后排的嘉宾试图要坐到前排这种情况呢?LaForce + Stevens事务所负责为这一季的翠西•瑞斯(Tracy Reese)以及Milly by Michelle Smith的时装秀监场,其客户总监莉莎•弗兰克(Lisa Frank)说,"你必须处理(这类事情)。我们会非常彬彬有礼地告诉他们:'很抱歉,这是别人的位置。'"
当无法让一位想要入座前排的人士如愿以偿时,许多公司会给对方提供一个台阶下。琳达•冈特(Linda Gaunt)的公司常为瑞贝卡•明可弗(Rebecca Minkoff)与公主娜娜(Nanette Lepore)排座,她说,"我们会让他们了解,为了避免挫伤他们的自尊或使他们位于尴尬的位置,他们可以选择拒绝出席。"冈特说,这些人都会很领情,"他们会礼貌地回复:'谢谢你,可惜我有事无法参加。"
PR firms also handle
invitation requests. Once reserved for the media, contacts are now shared widely online, and requests are exploding in number. 'There's a huge onslaught,' Ms. Tesoro says.