With summer comes the dreaded season of swimwear shopping. But this year's retro-glam looks may ease some of the angst.

The latest suits hark back to the relativelychaste looks of Hollywood's heyday, with low leg cuts, high-waisted bikini bottoms, shirred and gathered fabric, and tops that offer fuller coverage.

While modesty may be a result, it isn't the aim. 'We're finding that women really are responding to glamour in bathing suits,' says designer and television's 'Project Runway' host Michael Kors.

On the high-fashion side, swimsuits shown on the runway by Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and other designers for this summer evoke mid-20th-century looks worn by bombshells Esther Williams or Sophia Loren. There are modern versions at many price and design levels, from designer lines such as Malia Mills, where suits can cost several hundred dollars, to fast-fashion outlets such as H&M, where a vintage-look bikini will set you back $24.95.

Modern stretch materials allow swim designers to combine glam designs with athletic functionality -- suits that Mr. Kors calls 'hybrid with a wink to the past.' Two of his suits are shown on Olympic hopefuls Hope Solo and Serena Williams on the June cover of Vogue magazine. The swimsuits are alluring -- Ms. Williams's suit of shimmery gold fabric is shirred around the torso -- but wouldn't flash too much in a mean round of beach volleyball.

The ultra-femme look is part of a midcentury trend that is sweeping architecture, interior design and even industrial design. Retro styles have been a theme on the ready-to-wear runways for several years, and swim designers are increasingly responding to fashion trends as they work to expand their industry, which sells $10.8 billion of swimwear to women, men and children each year, according to consumer researcher NPD Group Inc.

Retro glamour also plays well with the move to pitch whole suites of poolside clothing to women, with coordinating coverups, hats, skirts and even sandals. Swimwear makers hope to expand by selling more kinds of items. Ann Taylor has a 'poolside glamour' collection in stores now that was inspired by Slim Aarons's photography from the 1960s. Looks include gathered swimsuits and a 'shirred skirted bikini bottom' that is pure Jean Harlow, as well as coverups and pool-chic dresses.

The new modesty is kind to women's curves. Low leg cuts flatter the hips, higher waists hide tummies, and shirring at the torso distracts from bulges. All this is welcome to Nora Neibergall, a 53-year-old executive at a nonprofit company in Tempe, Ariz., who says she wants to 'tuck it all in and keep it all in the bathing suit.' She compares buying a suit to having a toothache. For her, the trick is findingadequate coverage for her thighs and rear end without wearing something 'that looks like it was designed for someone in their 70s.' She has ordered a covered-up look from Land's End.

While it is rare for a swimsuit trend to appealstrongly to both younger and older shoppers, young women like this one -- often choosing the most literal retro looks. Ms. Neibergall's daughter, Beth, a 21-year-old business and art history major at Arizona State University, says her favorite suits this season are retro styles from Dolce & Gabbana, with push-up-style tops, high hourglass waists, and bows and frills, which she saw online, and Marc by Marc Jacobs high-waisted one-pieces, which she saw at Nordstrom.

'I'm really only interested in the trendy look. I want that silhouette,' says Beth Neibergall, a size 4 who says she owns at least 10 swimsuits. 'I don't really have any concerns as a 21-year-old about how it's going to fit,' she says.

Land's End, too, has found that younger women like the more retro styles, though the trend toward celebrating the 'hourglass look' crosses all ages, says Suzanne Bryant, vice president of design at Land's End.

Ultrafeminine details such as sweetheart necklines, ruching, and ruffled skirts on suits are hot sellers, she says. 'The more feminine styles that we put into the line this year, the customer has really gravitated to,' Ms. Bryant says.

This is a big turnabout from the hard-body look with high-cut legs and plunging V necklines -- launched in the 1980s but long-surviving -- or the teeny bikinis of recent years. 'That high-rise leg is so sexy, but it's very hard to pull off,' says Jenny Pyle, designer of the 1 Sol swimwear brand. Her customer, she says, is much like herself: 'We're in our 30s. We have kids. We don't want to have our butt hanging out,' she says.

Swimwear designer Malia Mills is known for her retro looks inspired by women's underwear of yore. This year, high-waisted looks such as 'calendar girl' have been big sellers. 'This is a very recognizable fashion moment,' she says. 'People can identify with it.'