酷兔英语


Let me start by saying that I abhor the term 'middle age' on the grounds that it amounts to little more than discrimination and is in danger of leading to fashion segregation. What is middle age these days anyway? And, supposing one could define it, would one want to be shuffled off into a group whose tenets supposedly include 'no long hair, no peroxide, no miniskirts and no fishnets'? I paused before I wrote that last word because I do actually think that the wearing of fishnet stockings by anyone over the age of 25 or under the age of 14 should simply be banned.


我先声明一点,我讨厌"中年"这个词,因为它简直就是一种歧视,而且容易导致"时尚隔离"。现在中年到底指什么?就算有人能下个定义,有谁会希望被拽进一个被认为以"不留长发、不染发、不穿迷你裙和渔网袜"为基本原则的群体中呢?我在写"渔网袜"这个词之前顿了一下,因为我确实觉得,25岁以上或14岁以下的人就是不应该穿渔网袜。



This is not a matter of age appropriateness (AA); it's a matter of dignity. In my book, there may not be a sharply defined perimeter fencing off the concept of aging, but there are absolutes where 'the dignity index' is concerned. Madonna, a former hero, fell off my dignity index long ago (witness her recent fishnet fiasco, if you dare); conversely, Victoria Beckham skyrocketed up the index the moment she began dressing properly, stopped singing, returned to her natural brunette and got a decent day job.


这并不是年龄适宜性的问题,而是尊严的问题。在我看来,可能并没有一个把变老的概念界定出来的清晰界线,但肯定存在关乎"尊严指数"的绝对值。曾经的风云人物麦当娜(Madonna)早就跌破了我的尊严指数(看看她最近渔网袜的失败造型,如果你敢看的话);相反,在穿着得当、不再唱歌、回到自然褐发并找到一份体面的正式工作之后,维多利亚•贝克汉姆(Victoria Beckham)的指数就迅速上升。



I know I sound patronizing, but that's because I speak from experience falling, as I do, off my own index quite regularly. My own critics (aside from myself) are two members of the opposite sex aged 15 and 13, respectively, whom I happened to have given birth to. That doesn't cut me any slack in their eyes. Here's a smattering of responses to outfits I have attempted to leave the house in: 'Why are you wearing boy's clothing?'; 'Are you auditioning for an Abba-tribute band?'; 'You know you can't walk in heels, so why are you trying?'; 'Mum. Do not get out of the car dressed like that.'


我知道自己听起来很傲慢,但这是因为它是我的经验之谈──我就经常跌破自己的尊严指数。对我评头论足的(除了我自己)是两个15岁至13岁之间、性别相反的家伙,刚好他们又是我生的。不过这并没有使他们对我口下留情。以下是他们对我准备出门时装扮的几个反应:"你怎么穿男孩的衣服?";"你是要去参加哪个翻唱阿巴乐队(Abba)歌曲的乐队试镜吗?";"你知道自己穿不了高跟鞋,干嘛还要尝试呢?";"妈,不要穿成那样下车。"



Most recently I have teetered on the edge of the index over the wearing of shorts, the acceptability of which turns out to be 'big' among, ahem, a certain group of us out there. I own two pairs of shorts, black and grey, from T by Alexander Wang. Purchased at my very favorite place, TheOutnet.com, they are baggy, pocketed and made of sweatshirt fabric. They rest halfway up my thigh and I wear them with leggingsunderneath and a baggy sweater on top. Do I consider this to be dignified and AA? As it happens, I do. Would I leave the house bare-legged in short, fitted shorts? Only if I were living in Goa and never planned to require anyone to consider me credible again. Do I consider short shorts to be wearable in the context of work and play? Yes, but seriously (and here's an edict), if you are 40-plus, have great legs and are intent on wearing shorts to do business in, then said shorts need to be part of a shorts suit as in those sent down the runway by the likes of Jil Sander, Givenchy (though I fear these were too, too short and slinky for the dignity index) and Proenza Schouler. Even then, I would be wearing them with a pair of footless tights and some flats or three-inch heels at most.


最近我在穿短裤的尊严指数边缘摇摆不定,短裤其实在我们的某个群体中有"很高"的接受度。我有两条短裤,一条黑的一条灰的,都是亚历山大•王T系列(T by Alexander Wang)。它们是我在自己最喜欢的TheOutnet.com网站上买的,款式宽松、有口袋,运动衫面料。长短在我大腿中间,我会在里面穿上打底裤,上身穿宽松针织衫。我是否觉得这种装扮庄重且适合我的年龄呢?碰巧的是,我认为是。我会光腿穿紧身短裤出门吗?除非我住在果阿,并且永远不打算让任何人再认为我可以信赖。我是否认为可以在工作和娱乐的环境下穿短裤?我认为可以,但说真的(这是一条法则),如果你40多岁、有好看的双腿并打算穿短裤谈生意,那么必须穿短裤套装──就像吉尔•桑达(Jil Sander)、纪梵希(Givenchy)(不过我觉得这些对尊严指数来说恐怕太短太时髦了)和普罗恩萨•施罗(Proenza Schouler)等品牌时装秀上展示的那些一样。即使那样,我可能也会搭配一双无脚裤袜和平底鞋,最多也就穿一双三英寸的高跟鞋。



I'm still not sure, though, that short suits are the way to go in the office. Maybe in a couple more seasons, when everyone (men) has gotten used to the silhouette in the same way they did with the mini, shorts won't look so, well, short. I know they've been around for a while in fashion terms, but in the evolution of business and AA dressing, they are still amoebic.


不过我还是不能确定短裤套装是否适合职场。也许再过几个时装季,当大家(男人)像习惯迷你裙一样习惯这种装扮时,短裤看起来也就不那么短了。我知道短裤在时尚界已经存在很久,但在商务和适合年龄装扮的进化树上,短裤还位处早期的单细胞阶段。



Right now, for those of us over the age of 30, shorts should still be considered experimental and fun. Think, then, about buying a pair of the more outrageous shorts from Stella McCartney (Hawaiian-print cotton shorts, £570), Dries Van Noten (black and white desaturated floral print, £255), Carven (alpine-printed silk, £220) or Yves Saint Laurent (poppy-print cr pe shorts, £640). On top, keep it simple, and if you are worried about modesty and dignity, then keep it loose. Try a slightly oversized white shirt by Equipment (I like their silk tuxedo shirt for £255), Gap's dolman-sleeve white shirt (£29.95) or, if you want to really splash out, The Row's white, long cotton shirt (£610) is a great long-term wardrobe addition. The trick is to get the volume just right so that you look neither too 'gym-ready' nor too blousy. T-shirts are fine, but they should be loose, round-necked and in very good cotton. A friend of mine swears by Iro, but I love tees by Gap ('Mason' crew, from £12.95), James Perse (from £65) and Petit Bateau (from £25). Flat shoes, please (a column on this is just around the corner); Bottega Veneta, Lanvin and Balenciaga are all good places to start.


目前,对于30多岁的人来说,短裤还是应该被看做实验性和趣味性的装扮。可以买条花里胡哨的短裤,比如斯特拉•麦卡特尼(Stella McCartney)(夏威夷图案棉短裤,售价570英镑)、德赖斯•范诺顿(Dries Van Noten)(黑白不饱和色花朵图案,售价255英镑)、卡纷(Carven)(高山图案丝绸质地,售价220英镑)或伊夫圣罗兰(Yves Saint Laurent)(罂粟花图案的绉丝质地,售价640英镑)。最要紧的是保持简洁,如果你担心不够庄重和不够高贵,那就保持宽松。试试Equipment稍大号的白色T恤(我喜欢他们255英镑的丝绸礼服衬衫),Gap的蝙蝠袖白色T恤(29.95英镑),或者如果你真的舍得花钱,The Row的白色长款棉T恤(610英镑)是适合添置到衣柜永不会过时的单品。关键在于掌握好尺码,这样穿上就不会太像"健身服",也不会太松垮。T恤是可以的,但应该选宽松、圆领且棉质非常好的款式。我的一个朋友最信赖Iro,但我喜欢Gap(Mason crew系列起价12.95英镑)、James Perse(起价65英镑)和Petit Bateau(起价25英镑)。请穿平底鞋(有关这个话题的专栏文章马上出炉);宝缇嘉(Bottega Veneta)、Lanvin和巴黎世家(Balenciaga)都是很好的入门之选。



If you want to experiment with the idea of being taken seriously in shorts, a good idea might be to buy a simple, neutral, tailored pair (best from Theory, £165; MHL by Margaret Howell, £155; and YSL, £455). Revert to the T-shirt idea with either a cropped jacket that hits at the waist or a long, boyfriend-type jacket that ends roughly where your shorts end, or perhaps a little lower. Reach into your wardrobe for these. There's no point in buying something new when you are working with an experimental look.


如果你想尝试看起来能正式些的短裤穿着方式,那么一个好办法是买一条设计简单、中性且合身的短裤(最好是来自Theory、玛格丽特•霍威尔(Margaret Howell)和伊夫圣罗兰的,售价分别为165英镑、155英镑和455英镑)。回归到T恤装扮,选择齐腰或更长的短款上衣,大约和短裤底边一样长的男式上衣,或者可以再低点。在你的衣柜里找找这些衣服。尝试实验性的装扮没必要买新衣服。



With the weather as it is, you may still be wearing flat boots and leggings with the above. If it's warm, a flat, fun, strappy sandal will offset the severity of the jacket. Try Pierre Hardy's suede and metallic-leather sandals (£540), Sam Edelman's leopard-print, pony-skin sandals (£68) or choose from the chic range of Ancient Greek Sandals (from £95).


在目前这种天气,你可能还在搭配平底靴和打底裤。如果天热了,一双花哨的系带平底凉鞋会抵消上衣的沉重感。试试皮埃尔•哈迪(Pierre Hardy)的绒面革和金属皮革凉鞋(售价540英镑),山姆•爱德曼(Sam Edelman)的豹纹马皮凉鞋(售价68英镑),或从Ancient Greek Sandals的时髦款式里挑选(起价95英镑)。



Shorts are versatile and they have the capacity to (positively) change your silhouette. The thing to do is to play with the proportions and see what works for you. It's unusual at this stage in the fashion game to come across anything that can effect such a change, so have fun with shorts; don't take them too seriously and, above all, do not wear them for the first time on an occasion where one simply must get it right. If you feel 'wrong' at any time, remember that even the worst mistakes can be rectified by throwing on an oversized cashmere cardigan in a pretense at insouciance.


短裤有多样穿法,能够很好地改变你的形象。重点在于掌握比例,看看什么样的适合你。在时尚游戏的这个阶段遇到能够实现这种改变的东西是不寻常的,所以享受短裤的乐趣吧;不要太把短裤当回事,尤其是别在第一次出席不能搞砸的场合时穿短裤。如果你感觉到"不对劲",那么记住,即便最严重的错误也可以通过假装漫不经心地披上一件宽松羊绒开衫来救场。



I do hope that Anna Morel, director of London public-relations agency Bryan Morel, won't mind me singling her out as a woman who, by dressing simply and chicly, can defy all fashion dictates that generally apply to middle-age. When I saw her rushing around at the John Rocha's fashion show in February dressed in one of Rocha's jumpsuits (from £395) or onesies or playsuits, as they are sometimes called I was forced to reconsider my view on the all-in-one. Anna's was black silk de chine, created with the simplicity that Rocha excels at, and she was unadorned (very important), save for the inevitable phone earpiece and ID badge.


我真心希望伦敦公关公司Bryan Morel的总监安娜•莫雷尔(Anna Morel)不会介意我特意把她挑出来,作为可以无视普遍适用于中年的所有穿衣规则的女性代表。她的穿着简洁而时髦。当我看到她2月份在约翰•罗恰(John Rocha)的时装秀上穿着罗恰连体裤到处跑时,我被迫重新调整了我对连体裤的看法。安娜穿的这款是中国黑丝绸面料以及罗恰擅长的简洁设计,而且除了必须的电话耳机和身份牌,她没有其他任何配饰(这很重要)。



Since then, I have bought (but not yet worn) my own onesie, which happens to be in short form and, again, from T by Alexander Wang (£74 from theoutnet.com). Another friend reports success in hers from Michael Kors in brushed silk (£285) and I would also recommend them from Phillip Lim (from £695), Halston Heritage (from £450) and DKNY (£370). Loose fitting, flattering all-in-ones cover a multitude of sins and shortcomings if you find the right fit. Belt them if they feel too blousy and tent-like; buy the next size up if they feel too restrictive. Get the look wrong and you will look either like a sack or, to put it bluntly, as if you are trying too hard. That's a cardinal sin for those of us over 40.


后来我自己也买了连体裤,但还没穿过,是短款的,而且也是亚历山大•王T系列(theoutnet.co m上的售价为74英镑)。另一个朋友表示她从迈克•柯尔(Michael Kors)买的真丝拉绒连体裤很成功(售价285英镑),另外我还推荐菲利普•林(Phillip Lim)(起价695英镑)、Halston Heritage(起价450英镑)和DKNY(售价370英镑)的连体裤。如果你找到了合适自己的,宽松、修身的连体裤可以掩盖大量的缺陷。如果感觉太松垮和蓬松,就束条腰带;如果感觉太束缚,就买大一号。如果穿的不对,你看起来会像个大袋子,或者不客气的说,就是太做作。这对我们40多岁的人来说是最大的禁忌。



My onesie advice? In shorts form, flats and leggings; in longer form, a heel is fine and practically mandatory if the onesie is in evening silk with wide pants