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皮肤科医生建议每天擦防晒霜-第1页

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Even the most diligent, well-intentioned daily sunscreen wearers are likely doing it wrong.


即使是最勤快诚心的防晒霜使用者也可能会搞错用法。



That's because, for women, protecting yourself from the sun is more complex than just choosing an SPF number. The sunscreen in foundation or tinted moisturizer isn't enough for everyday protection. And the sunscreen in cosmetics mostly offers protection against one type of ultraviolet ray, and makeup isn't applied as thoroughly or frequently as needed.


这是因为，对女性来说，防晒可绝非仅仅是选择SPF值那么简单。底霜或有色保湿霜中的防晒成分不足以每日保护皮肤。而化妆品中的防晒成分多数只提供对一种紫外线的保护，且彩妆若上得不彻底或不够频繁就无法满足防晒需要。



And though dermatologists recommend wearing a sunscreen every day, most people don't. Only about one in five people wears sunscreen properly on a consistent daily basis, says Neil Sadick, clinical professor of dermatology at Weill Cornell Medical College in New York.


尽管皮肤科医生建议每天擦防晒霜，但多数人都不会这样做。纽约威尔康奈尔医学院（Weill Cornell Medical College）的皮肤病学临床教授尼尔·萨迪克（Neil Sadick）说，五个人中大约只有一个人坚持每日按正确方法涂抹防晒霜。



'Even if they are using a makeup with a sunscreen, I would tell my patients they're not getting enough protection,' he says.


他说，"即使我的病人使用带防晒成分的化妆品，我也会告诉他们没有得到充分保护。"



New guidelines by the Food and Drug Administration aim to protect consumers from skin cancer through greater testing and clearer labeling on sun-protection products, including cosmetics with sunscreen. The guidelines take effect June 18, though it will take time to clear out-dated products from store shelves.


美国食品和药物管理局（Food and Drug Administration，简称FDA）发布了有关防晒产品的新指引，旨在通过更多测试以及防晒产品（包括含防晒成分的化妆品）上更清晰的标注来保护消费者远离皮肤癌。该指引从6月18日起生效，但过时产品下架仍需时日。



More than two million people are diagnosed with skin cancer each year, according to the Skin Cancer Foundation. The incidence of melanoma, the most dangerous form, continues to rise in most age groups in the U.S. It increased eightfold in women ages 18 to 39 from 1970 to 2009, according to a recent study from the Mayo Clinic. It pointed to the use of tanning beds by young women as a possible cause for the increase.


据皮肤癌基金会（Skin Cancer Foundation）的统计，在美国每年有200多万人被诊断为皮肤癌。黑色素瘤──最危险的皮肤癌──在美国多数年龄群中的发病率持续上升。根据梅奥诊所（Mayo Clinic）最近的一项研究，1970年至2009年，18岁至39岁的美国女性中黑色素瘤的发病率增加了八倍。该研究指出，年轻女性使用日光浴床可能是导致发病率上升的原因之一。



Gabrielle Bogan, 24 years old, who works in advertising in Pittsburgh, went tanning as often as 10 times a month in her teens, but stopped when she found two moles on her scalp. They weren't cancerous, but she began using a sun-protection factor of 45 as part of her daily routine. 'I like the fact that this [sunscreen] has a bit higher of an SPF,' Ms. Bogan says.


在匹兹堡（Pittsburgh）从事广告业的加布丽埃勒·博根（Gabrielle Bogan）今年24岁，她十几岁时每月晒10次日光浴，但当她发现头皮上长了两颗痣时便停止了。这两颗痣不是恶性的，但她从那以后就开始使用SPF值为45的防晒霜，作为日常护肤的一部分。博根说，"我喜欢这款[防晒霜]，因为它的SPF值较高。"



But a product's SPF indicates only its ability to defend against sunburn-causing ultraviolet-B rays -- and not against ultraviolet-A, which penetrate deeper into the skin and cause premature aging. (Both types contribute to skin cancer.) For example, a person wearing SPF 50 could spend considerable time in the sun without getting burned. 'They think they're getting protected but they're getting the silent damage from UVA,' says Steven Q. Wang, director of dermatological surgery and dermatology at the Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center site in Basking Ridge, N.J.


但护肤品的SPF值只显示了它防护导致晒伤的中波紫外线（UVB）而不是长波紫外线（UVA）的能力，长波紫外线能更深入地穿透皮肤并导致早衰。（两种紫外线都会导致皮肤癌。）例如，使用SPF值50的人晒很久太阳也不会被灼伤。"他们认为自己得到保护了，但却受到了UVA的无声伤害。"新泽西州巴斯金里奇（Basking Ridge）斯隆-凯特琳癌症中心（Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center）的皮肤病外科和皮肤病学总监斯蒂芬·王（Steven Q. Wang）说。



Sunscreen products that pass a new FDA test will now say 'broad spectrum,' followed by the product's SPF, to indicate its effectiveness for both types of rays. Dermatologists recommend wearing a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 15 every day. The UVA component is important as window panes -- at home or office or car -- often block UVB but not UVA rays.


通过新的FDA测试的防晒产品现在将在产品SPF值后注明"广谱"，以表明其对两类紫外线均有效。皮肤病学家推荐每天使用SPF值至少为15的广谱防晒霜。抗UVA成分非常重要，因为家里、办公室或汽车上的窗玻璃通常只能阻挡UVB而阻挡不了UVA。



Adding sun protection into makeup or a moisturizer is a challenge, says Curtis Cole, vice president of skin care innovation at Johnson & Johnson consumer products, which includes the popular skin care line, Neutrogena.


强生公司（Johnson & Johnson）日用消费品部（旗下产品包括广受欢迎的露得清（Neutrogena）皮肤护理产品）皮肤护理创新副总裁柯蒂斯·科尔（Curtis Cole）说，在化妆品或保湿霜中加入防晒成分是种挑战。



'Formulators have to do a lot of extra work to get the feel and the texture of them so that they're still 'consumer delighters',' Dr. Cole says.


科尔博士说，"配方设计师必须做许多额外工作，以了解它们的质感，使它们仍然'受消费者喜爱'。"



Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, often called physical sunscreens, provide a physical barrier, but may leave a white residue if not formulated correctly, says Dr. Cole. So-called chemical sunscreens are oil based -- not a desirable quality in most skin products. Also, the pigments in foundation or tinted moisturizer can interfere with the products' photostability, or their ability to remain effective once exposed to the sun, Dr. Cole says.


科尔博士说，氧化锌和二氧化钛──通常被称为物理防晒霜──提供了物理屏障，但如果配方错误，可能会留下白色残留物。所谓的化学防晒霜是油质的──在多数护肤品中这并非理想性质。而且，科尔博士说，底霜或有色保湿霜中的色素可能会干扰护肤品的抗晒稳定性，即暴露于阳光下时保持有效的能力。



L'Oreal USA, which includes the Maybelline brand, added more UV filters to a handful of its products in order to meet the new FDA guidelines, says Anthony Potin, assistant vice president of skin care and sun care research and innovation at L'Oreal USA. The company also developed a line of sunscreen products specifically geared to the guidelines. L'Oreal Paris Sublime Sun hit store shelves in February with the proper formulation and packaging.


旗下包括美宝莲（Maybelline）品牌的欧莱雅（美国）（L'Oreal USA）的皮肤护理和防晒研究与创新部副总裁安东尼·波坦（Anthony Potin）称，欧莱雅在其少数产品中加入了更多紫外线过滤成分，以符合新的FDA指引。该公司还开发了一批专门与新指引接轨的防晒产品。配方与包装符合新指引要求的欧莱雅Paris Sublime Sun在2月份上市。



On a daily basis, people should wear a small shot glass worth of sunscreen to cover face, ears, neck, hands and any other exposed skin, says Dr. Sadick.


萨迪克博士说，人们应每天在脸部、耳部、颈部、手部和其他裸露皮肤上擦一层相当于一小烈酒杯量的防晒霜。



Cosmetics brands including L'Oreal, Neutrogena, Clarins and Chanel, are marketing new thinner, liquid sunscreens specifically designed to layer under makeup and be lighter and drier than traditional sunscreens.


包括欧莱雅、露得清、娇韵诗（Clarins）和香奈儿（Chanel）在内的化妆品品牌正在推销更清透、专为彩妆打底而设计，且比传统防晒霜颜色更浅、水分更少的新型液体防晒霜。



People typically wear about a half to a third of the recommended amount of sunscreen. As a result, they get half to a third of the coverage -- an SPF 30 suddenly becomes SPF 15 or SPF 10, says Dr. Deborah Sarnoff, senior vice president of the Skin Cancer Foundation and clinical professor of dermatology at NYU Langone Medical Center.


皮肤癌基金会资深副总裁、纽约大学朗格尼医疗中心（NYU Langone Medical Center）临床皮肤病学教授德博拉·萨尔诺夫（Deborah Sarnoff）说，人们的防晒霜用量通常只有推荐用量的1/3至1/2。结果，他们获得的防护效果也只有1/3至1/2──SPF值30一下变成了SPF值15甚或SPF值10。



Neutrogena makes its products with a higher SPF than most cosmetic companies for that reason. 'Even when they put on too little, they're still getting a meaningful amount of protection,' Dr. Cole says.


由于这一原因，露得清的产品SPF值比多数化妆品公司的产品都高。科尔博士说，"即使用户抹得很少，仍足以起到保护效果。"



The FDA is considering a proposal to cap the SPF indicator at '50+,' based on research that anything higher than 50 is only slightly better. Neutrogena says it has published research that suggests otherwise.


基于认为高于50的SPF值增加的保护效果甚微的研究，FDA正考虑提议将SPF指数的上限定为"50+"。露得清称，该公司发布的研究结论与之不同。



On the other end of the spectrum -- very low SPFs -- the FDA has already drawn a line in the sand. Products that do not pass the broad spectrum test or those with a SPF of 14 or lower will be required to carry a warning that reads, in part, 'This product has been shown only to help prevent sunburn not skin cancer or early skin aging.'


对于另一个极端──SPF值非常低的护肤品──FDA也已制定了下限。没有通过广谱测试或SPF值等于或低于14的护肤品将需要标明警示语，包括，"经证明本产品仅有助于防止晒伤而非皮肤癌或皮肤早衰。"



Men should also be wearing sunscreen every day, especially those who are bald or losing their hair, as there is more skin likely to be exposed in the direct line of the sun.


男性也应该每日涂防晒霜，尤其是那些谢顶或脱发的男性，因为他们可能有更多皮肤暴露在阳光的直接照射下。



Lip balm with at least SPF 15 is also important, especially for men; women get some protection from matte lipstick. Dr. Sarnoff recommends special attention to the bottom lip, as that area tends to catch the most sun.


润唇膏的SPF值至少为15也很重要，尤其是对男性而言；女性从哑光唇彩中获得了部分保护。萨尔诺夫博士建议特别注意下唇，因为这里通常是受到最多日晒的。



Most sunscreen brands must overhaul their packaging due to the FDA's new guidelines. Products must carry a 'Drug Facts' panel, similar in prominence to over-the-counter pain relievers, listing active ingredients, uses and warnings. The FDA guidelines also require a specific size and font on what can be small containers.


由于FDA的新指引，多数防晒霜品牌都必须彻底检查其包装。产品必须带有"药品说明"标签，这明显类似于非处方镇痛药，其中要列出有效成分、用途和警告。FDA指引还要求在小容器上使用特定字号和字体。



'It's very difficult to do that in an aesthetically pleasing way,' says Lisa Hawkins, senior vice president of marketing, education and events for Christian Dior Perfumes, 'particularly on a luxury good package.'


克里斯汀·迪奥香水公司（Christian Dior Perfumes）市场营销、教育与活动部资深副总裁莉萨·霍金斯（Lisa Hawkins）说，"很难以美观的形式满足这个要求。尤其是在奢侈品包装上。"



Dior, which sells its products around the world, is creating a U.S.-specific line of packaging, a 'hugely costly and complex endeavor,' says Ms. Hawkins. It is also considering narrowing its offerings in the U.S.


产品行销全球的迪奥正在生产专为美国设计的包装，霍金斯称其"成本昂贵且设计复杂"。该公司还在考虑减少在美国的供货量。



Elizabeth Holmes

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