One of Ermenegildo Zegna's biggest hurdles when it entered China 20 years ago was
finding customers able to afford its pricey men's suits.
20年前,刚进入中国的杰尼亚公司(Ermenegildo Zegna)面临的最大的挑战之一就是找到那些能够买得起他们价格高昂的男装的顾客。
Now the Italian
luxury-fashion house is facing a different
challenge in the Chinese market: competition.
如今,这家意大利豪华时尚品牌在中国市场正面临着另外一种截然不同的挑战:竞争。
Closely held Ermenegildo Zegna Holditalia SpA is planning to update some of its 75 Chinese stores to increase floor space and draw in passersby to keep its strong position there, said Gildo Zegna, chief
executive and the
grandson of the fashion house's
founder, in an
interview. It also is planning to
broaden sales of its
merchandise online, though Mr. Zegna didn't
disclose details, as well as
consideringopening more stores aimed at women.
公司的首席执行长、该时尚品牌创始人的孙子吉尔多•杰尼亚(Gildo Zegna)在一次访谈中称,股东人数有限的杰尼亚时装公司(Ermenegildo Zegna Holditalia SpA)正计划将其在中国的75家门店中的一部分门店进行升级,扩大面积,吸引路人,以维持其强势地位。该品牌还在计划扩大商品的在线销售,同时也在考虑针对女性开设更多的门店,不过杰尼亚并没有透露计划的细节。
For its Fall/Winter season, Zegna has started selling a somber-toned, China-themed
collection that it says is inspired by Chinese Revolution uniforms and ties with a Zegna seal in Chinese characters. Its China-inspired suits sell for around $3,695 to $4,295.
杰尼亚公司的秋冬季新品是一款暗色调、以中国为主题的系列时装,据说该系列是受到了中国革命制服的启发而设计的,而且领带上还隐藏着汉字书写体"杰尼亚"标志。该系列主打中国元素的时装已经开始销售,每套售价在3,695美元到4,295美元之间。
New
wealth among consumers has
driven more
luxury shopping. The number of affluent citizens earning a household
income of more than one million yuan (about $156,000) jumped about 20% last year, according to consulting firm McKinsey & Co. That group of people is expected to drive 38% growth in sales of
luxury goods over the next five years. And China is projected to be the world's biggest
luxury market with nearly $101
billion in sales by 2020, according to brokerage CLSA Asia-Pacific Markets.
消费者手中财富的增长也带动了奢侈品消费的增长。根据管理咨询公司麦肯锡(McKinsey & Co.)提供的数据,去年中国家庭收入超过100万元(约合156,000美元)的富人的数量增加了20%。预计在未来的五年内,这群人将给奢侈品销售带来38%的增长。根据经纪公司里昂证券亚太市场(CLSA Asia-Pacific Markets)的预计,到2020年,中国将成为世界最大的奢侈品市场,市值将接近1,010亿美元。
Zegna is having to fight for
retail space in China as the
landscape has become
increasinglycrowded with other
luxury fashion brands deepening their ambitions and making further inroads. Italy's Dolce & Gabbana in March unveiled plans to open 15 new stores in China over the next two years, up from 26 now. In April, Britain's Burberry Group PLC said it had 43 new stores in the pipeline, adding to the 60 already in China.
随着其他豪华时尚品牌加大开拓中国市场的力度,试图进一步打入中国市场,杰尼亚必须要经过一番战斗,才能在越来越拥挤的中国奢侈品市场赢得零售空间。3月份,意大利时尚品牌杜嘉班纳(Dolce & Gabbana)披露了在接下来的两年里在中国新开15个新门店的计划。目前,该品牌在中国的门店总数为26个。4月份,英国奢侈品生产商巴宝莉集团(Burberry Group PLC)称,该集团正准备在已有的60家门店的基础上,再新增43家门店。
Affluent Chinese consider Zegna their fifth-favored
luxury brand, according to China-based Hurun Research, according to a 2010
survey. CLSA says Zegna is the sixth-largest
luxury brand in China by the number of stores where it is sold.
根据胡润研究院(Hurun Research)在2010年进行的一项调查得出的结论,杰尼亚是中国的富人眼中排名第五的奢侈品品牌。里昂证券称,从门店数量来看,杰尼亚是中国市场上第六大奢侈品品牌。
In Beijing, the company has struggled to find a prime
location for a new flagship store, bumping back its
opening to 2013.
在北京,该公司经过一番努力终于找到了新开一家旗舰店的黄金位置,不过新店要在2013年才能开业。
'Twenty years ago, everybody was no one in China,' Mr. Zegna said. 'We are all now aiming to keep up productivity and defend our
leadership position.'
杰尼亚说,20年前,所有的品牌在中国都没有什么名气;而现在,我们的目标就是保持生产能力,捍卫我们的领先位置。
Milan-based Zegna benefited from its early entrance