"Lovat Bridge, by which we returned, is a plain, handsome structure
of five arches, two of 40 feet span, two of 50, and the centre one
of 60. The curve is as little as possible. I
learnt in Spain to
admire straight
bridges; But Mr. Telford thinks there always ought
to be some curve to
enable the rain water to run off, and because
he would have the
outline look like the
segment of a large circle,
resting on the abutments. A double line over the arches gives a
finish to the
bridge, and perhaps looks as well, or almost as well,
as balustrades, for not a
sixpence has been allowed for
ornament on
these works. The sides are protected by water-wings, which are
embankments of stone, to prevent the floods from extending on
either side, and attacking the flanks of the
bridge."
Nine miles further north, they arrived at Dingwall, near which a
bridge similar to that at Beauly, though wider, had been constructed
over the Conan. From
thence they proceeded to Invergordon, to
Ballintraed (where another pier for
fishing boats was in progress),
to Tain, and
thence to Bonar Bridge, over the Sheir, twenty-four
miles above the entrance to the Dornoch Frith, where an iron
bridge, after the same model as that of Craigellachie, had been
erected. This
bridge is of great importance, connecting as it does
the whole of the road
traffic of the northern counties with the
south. Southey speaks of it as
"A work of such
paramountutility that it is not possible to look
at it without delight. A
remarkable anecdote," he continues,
"was told me
concerning it. An inhabitant of Sutherland, whose
father was drowned at the Mickle Ferry (some miles below the
bridge)
in 1809, could never bear to set foot in a ferry-boat after the
catastrophe, and was
consequently cut off from
communication with
the south until this
bridge was built. He then set out on a journey.
'As I went along the road by the side of the water,' said he,
'I could see no
bridge. At last I came in sight of something
like a spider's web in the air. If this be it, thought I, it will
never do! But,
presently, I came upon it; and oh! it is the finest
thing that ever was made by God or man!'"
Sixteen miles north-east of Bonar Bridge, Southey crossed Fleet
Mound, another
ingenious work of his friend Telford, but of an
altogether different
character. It was thrown across the River
Fleet, at the point at which it ran into the estuary or little
land-locked bay outside, known as Loch Fleet. At this point there
had
formerly been a ford; but as the tide ran far
inland, it could
only be crossed at low water, and travellers had often to wait for
hours before they could proceed on their journey. The embouchure
being too wide for a
bridge, Telford formed an embankment across
it, 990 yards in length, providing four flood-gates, each 12 feet
wide, at its north end, for the egress of the
inland waters.
These gates opened outwards, and they were so hung as to shut with
the rising of the tide. The
holding back of the sea from the land
inside the mound by this means, had the effect of reclaiming a
considerable
extent of
fertile carse land, which, at the time of
Southey's visit,--though the work had only been completed the year
before,--was already under
profitablecultivation. The principal
use of the mound, however, was in giving support to the fine broad
road which ran along its
summit, and thus completed the
communication with the country to the north. Southey speaks in
terms of high
admiration of "the
simplicity, the beauty, and
utility of this great work."
This was the furthest limit of their journey, and the travellers
retraced their steps
southward, halting at Clashmore Inn:
"At breakfast," says Southey, "was a handsome set of Worcester china.
Upon noticing it to Mr. Telford, he told me that before these roads
were made, he fell in with some people from Worcestershire near the
Ord of Caithness, on their way
northward with a cart load of
crockery, which they got over the mountains as best they could;
and, when they had sold all their ware, they laid out the money in
black cattle, which they then drove to the south."
The rest of Southey's
journal is
mainly occupied with a description
of the
scenery of the Caledonian Canal, and the principal
difficulties encountered in the
execution of the works, which were
still in active progress. He was greatly struck with the
flight of
locks at the south end of the Canal, where it enters Loch Eil near
Corpach:--
"There being no pier yet formed," he says, "we were carried to and
from the boats on men's shoulders. We landed close to the sea shore.
A sloop was lying in the fine basin above, and the canal was full
as far as the Staircase, a name given to the eight successive
locks. Six of these were full and overflowing; and then we drew
near enough to see persons walking over the lock-gates. It had
more the effect of a scene in a pantomime than of anything in real
life. The rise from lock to lock is eight feet,--sixty-four,
therefore, in all. The length of the locks, including the gates
and abutments at both ends, is 500 yards;-- the greatest piece of
such
masonry in the world, and the greatest work of the kind beyond
all comparison.
"A panorama painted from this place would include the highest
mountain in Great Britain, and its greatest work of art. That work
is one of which the
magnitude and importance become
apparent, when
considered in relation to natural objects. The Pyramids would
appear
insignificant in such a situation, for in them we should
perceive only a vain attempt to vie with greater things. But here
we see the powers of nature brought to act upon a great scale,
in subservience to the purposes of men; one river created, another
(and that a huge mountain-stream) shouldered out of its place, and
art and order assuming a
character of sublimity. Sometimes a beck
is conducted under the canal, and passages called culverts serve as
a
roadway for men and beasts. We walked through one of these, just
lofty enough for a man of my
stature to pass through with his hat
on. It had a very
singular effect to see persons emerging from this
dark, long, narrow vault. Sometimes a brook is taken in; a cesspool
is then made to receive what
gravel it may bring down after it has
passed this pool, the water flowing through three or four little
arches, and then over a paved bed and wall of
masonry into the canal.
These are called in-takes, and opposite them an
outlet is sometimes
made for the waters of; the canal, if they should be above their
proper level; or when the cross-stream may bring down a rush.
These
outlets consist of two inclined planes of
masonry, one rising
from the canal with a
pavement or waste weir between them; and when
the cross-stream comes down like a
torrent, instead of mingling
with the canal, it passes straight across. But these
channels
would be
insufficient for carrying off the whole
surplus waters in
time of floods. At one place,
therefore, there are three sluices
by which the whole canal from the Staircase to the Regulating Lock
(about six miles) can be lowered a foot in an hour. The sluices
were opened that we might see their effect. We went down the Bank,
and made our way round some wet ground till we got in front of the
strong arch into which they open. The arch is about 25 feet high,
of great strength, and built upon the rock. What would the
Bourbons have given for such a
cascade at Versailles? The rush and
the spray, and the force of the water, reminded me more of the
Reichenbach than of any other fall. That three small sluices, each
only 4 feet by 3 feet, should produce an effect which brought the
mightiest of the swiss waterfalls to my
recollection, may appear
incredible, or at least like an
enormousexaggeration. But the
prodigious
velocity with which the water is forced out, by the
pressure above, explains the
apparent wonder. And yet I
beheld it
only in half its strength; the depth above being at this time ten
feet, which will be twenty when the canal is completed. In a few
minutes a river was formed of no inconsiderable
breadth, which ran
like a
torrent into the Lochy.
"On this part of the canal everything is completed, except that the
iron
bridges for it, which are now on their way, are supplied by
temporary ones. When the middle part shall be finished, the Lochy,
which at present flows in its own
channel above the Regulating Lock,
will be dammed there, and made to join the Speyne by a new cut from
the lake. The cut is made, and a fine
bridge built over it.