What's the perfect red, white or sparkling wine this holiday season? It turns out the advice that shoppers receive will differ radically from one wine shop to the next. How radically? We asked a select group of metro New York retailers to name their favorites in each category, and the answers -- in their own words -- were widely divergent, though Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and anything 'elegant' were favored. When it comes to something sparkling, just about every merchant thinks you should be drinking Champagne.

1. 67 Wine and Spirits

179 Columbus Ave.

White: 2008 Thevenet Domaine de Roally Vire Clesse ($22.99)

This white Burgundy is one of our favorites; there is no new oak so it's all beautiful fruit. It's simply delicious.

Red: 2005 Marimar Torres Pinot Noir Don Miguel Vineyard Russian River Valley ($24.99)

This is a well-balanced, not over-the-top California Pinot that's full of berry fruit and doesn't taste like a Syrah!

Sparkling: Louis Sacy Brut Champagne ($29.99)

This predominantly Pinot Noir Champagne is not a private label but in our tastings it comes out better than the big-name Champagnes.

2. K&D Wine Merchants

1366 Madison Ave.

White: See Chart.

Red: 2007 Baker Lane Pinot Noir Ramondo Vineyards ($34.99)

This Pinot is more Burgundian in style than most California wines. It's also delicious, ripe and well balanced.

Sparkling: 1995 Pommery Grand Cru Champagne ($59.99)

A great grand cru from the solid 1995 vintage, this toasty bottling is the best deal around in vintage Champagne.

3. Crush Wines & Spirits

153 E. 57th St.

White: 2009 Willi Schaefer Himmelriech Grosses Gewachs ($39.95)

Mosel winemaker Willi Schaefer is best known for his sweet wines; this is his first-ever dry Riesling. The results are racy and delicate.

Red: 2009 Foillard Cote du Py ($34.95)

This is one of the most anticipated of all the 2009 Beaujolais, with lots of dark cherry fruits, spice and textured minerality. Bury this in the cellar for 10 years and expect a revelation.

Sparkling: 2000 Dom Perignon Rose ($319.95)

This just-released Champagne is incrediblylavish. While it will surely age gracefully for decades, it is also a lot of fun to drink right now.

4. Morrell & Company

One Rockefeller Plaza

White: 2006 Marcassin Three Sisters Vineyard Chardonnay ($195)

This is the Batard Montrachet of America -- a Sonoma Chardonnay of complexity and depth, from the famed winemaker Helen Turley.

Red: 2005 Cantina Santadi Shardana ($34.95)

This bold, exotic red from sun-drenched Sardinia is the perfect match to holiday cooking and hardy winter fare.

Sparkling: Krug Champagne 'Treasure of Two' ($89.95)

The Treasure of Two set is a half-bottle of elegant Krug Champagne with two Champagne glasses.

5. Union Square Wines

140 Fourth Ave.

White: 2007 Mount Eden Estate Chardonnay ($55)

This Chardonnay is made at an estate in Santa Cruz, south of San Francisco. It's rich and oily but with plenty of acidity, making it a great food wine.

Red: 2007 Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains Estate Red ($28)

This Santa Cruz-based estate produces legendary wines, and even this relativelyexpensive" target="_blank" title="a.廉价的">inexpensive red has lots of dark fruit, spice aromas and succulent tannins to entice Napa-philes to try something new.

Sparkling: 2002 Henri Goutorbe Special Club Grand Cru Champagne ($75)

This Pinot Noir and Chardonnay blend is a great Grower Champagne, with bristling acidity, good structure and the ability to age (2002 is a truly collectible vintage), though it's good to drink right now.

6. September Wines & Spirits

100 Stanton St.

White: 2008 Monastero Suore Cistercensi Coenobium ($22)

This white blend from the Lazio region of Italy is amazingly layered with scents of herbs, flowers and orange zest and a savory palate with flavors of peach and apricot and an earthy finish.

Red: 1999 Chateau de Bois Brincon Le Clos Bertin Anjou ($25)

When we tasted this 11 year-old Cabernet blend from the Loire and saw the price, we bought everything we could. It's the steal of the year. Deep black fruit with silky soft tannins. Elegant. Elegant. Elegant.

Sparkling: Monmousseau La Gaudrelle Cremant de Loire NV ($15)

This Chardonnay/Chenin Blanc blend from the Loire Valley tastes expensive but it's actually a great value -- elegant, soft and bursting with minerality.

7. Chambers Street Wines

148 Chambers St.

White: 2006 Kiralyudvar Tokaji Furmint Sec ($13.99)

This is an extraordinarilyunique dry white wine from Hungary with a weight and body that makes it a perfect winter white. One of the greatest values in the store.

Red: 2009 Rapet Pere & Fils Bourgogne En Bully ($19.99)

This elegant, light-bodied Pinot Noir is from a tiny vineyard in Burgundy on the backside of grand cru Corton. It's delicate with subtle earthy qualities.

Sparkling: See chart.

8. Franco's Wine Merchant

130 Elm St., New Canaan, Conn.

White: 2008 Jadot Corton Charlemagne ($106.99)

This white Burgundy is the king of kings; there are few wines that are grander than Corton Charlemagne.

Red: 2008 Jadot Beaune Therons ($33.99)

This beautiful red Burgundy pairs wonderfully with lamb, Beef Wellington, even salmon.

Champagne: Krug NV Champagne ($129.99)

This top Champagne is a great gift for yourself or a friend.

9. Varmax Liquor Pantry

16 Putnam Ave., Port Chester

White: 2007 Albert Mann Pinot Gris Grand Cru Hengst ($31.99)

The honeylike texture of this Grand Cru Pinot Gris from Alsace is hard to beat. It's a medium-bodied wine with notes of honeysuckle and lemon and lime. This wine can age but it's lovely to drink right now.

Red: 2004 Joseph Drouhin Beaune Premier Cru ($29.99)

This classically styled red Burgundy is aged and ready to drink. It's medium-bodied with bright cherry fruit with hints of earth and spice.

Champagne: 2003 Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs ($69.99)

This all-Chardonnay Champagne has a creamy, eleganttexture and yet it's bright with citrus flavors. My staff preferred this over Roederer's Cristal.

10. Gary's Wine

1308 Route 23, Wayne, N.J.

White: 2009 Montinore Borealis ($14.99)

Everyone who tries this multi-grape blend from Oregon loves it. There's lots of fresh and vivid fruit and spice flavors and a finish that's somewhere between dry and off-dry.

Red: 2005 Elix Priorat ($29.99)

A blend of Grenache, Cariagne, Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah, this Priorat wine is deep in color and flavor. It's a Spanish winemaking project from Napa Valley's Silverado Vineyards.

Sparkling: 2002 Dom Perignon Andy Warhol Tribute ($134.99)

This year's Dom Perignon comes in the bright red, yellow and blue colors that Warhol favored. It's art and a celebratory beverage and unique gift.

11. Greene Grape

765 Fulton St., Brooklyn

White: 2009 Domaine du Closel Savennieres La Jalouisie ($21.50)

This is the perfect winter white from the Loire Valley. The acid and fruit are in perfect balance and there are lovely aromas of peach, ginger and honey.

Red: See Chart.