With a greater clarity of the knowledge of the area, we walked from the church a little farther inland to what used to be the post office and the school that our mother attended, the skeletal shells of which were still standing precariously. From there, stopping periodically to eat some edible berries, we struggled behind our cousins through the heavily brush and shrub covered footpaths to Black Duck Cove to visit the cemetery where our grandmother, whom we never knew, was buried. This sacred ground was in very bad condition, with many badly corroded gravestones buried under brush and long grass. After searching for a few minutes in the midst of tangled vegetation, we found our grandmother's resting place beside which we paid our respects. It was a good thing that our cousins stayed with us, as the footpaths that traversed the island, were overgrown with brush. It would have been virtually impossible for my brother and me, to walk to the other communities on the island. We made our way back to the church on the hill and descended to the boat for a half hour boat ride to the other side of the island. Sailing through a number of islets, we arrived at what remains of the small village of Traytown, where our grandparents had lived. There, we met some more long lost relatives at a small cottage. One, a bit of an eccentric, who now lives in Toronto but takes summer refuge in Traytown, showed us the remnants of what had once been our grandparents'house. Beside these ruins, was the still flourishing cluster of wild rose bushes, planted there many years ago by our step grandmother. A lot of people, many whom were more lost cousins, continually dropped in or gathered on the porch outside. After a cup of tea and some more chitchat (small talk) and some comic relief, we made our departure for the mainland. On the way, we passed other inlets with ghost communities on Ireland's Eye. To add to the excitement of that special day, my brother spotted a humpback whale quite close, between the boat and the island. Our visit to Ireland's Eye was a bittersweet experience for us. On the one hand, there was a sense of being at the very place where our relatives and ancestors had lived, worked and played. On the other hand, there was a sense of agonizing loss of what were once thriving communities on the island. It was difficult to reconcile the past with the present, after a gap of fifty years of chronic degeneration of the communities. Today, the area is notorious for smuggling. However, our mission was invaluable in that we were able to find out more about ourselves. The entire expedition to Newfoundland was a major highlight in each of our lives. It tugged at our emotions at every turn. The people of Newfoundland, especially those of genetic connection, couldn't do enough for us. It was really like coming home, but then, that has always been the nature of Newfoundland courtesy, even to non-Newfoundlanders. It was reassuring to see that the Newfoundland charm has transcended time. It has endured so many changes since Confederation in 1949. My brother and I, eternally, will be Newfoundlanders and hope to go down home more often in the years to come. |