calm and moonshiny night, which made the passage incredibly
pleasant to the women, who remained three hours enjoying it,
whilst I was left to the cooler transports of enjoying their
pleasures at
second-hand; and yet, cooler as they may be, whoever
is
totallyignorant of such
sensation is, at the same time, void
of all ideas of friendship.
Wednesday.--Lisbon, before which we now lay at
anchor, is said to
be built on the same number of hills with old Rome; but these do
not all appear to the water; on the
contrary, one sees from
thence one vast high hill and rock, with buildings arising above
one another, and that in so steep and almost
perpendicular a
manner, that they all seem to have but one foundation.
As the houses, convents, churches, &c., are large, and all built
with white stone, they look very beautiful at a distance; but as
you approach nearer, and find them to want every kind of
ornament, all idea of beauty vanishes at once. While I was
surveying the
prospect of this city, which bears so little
resemblance to any other that I have ever seen, a reflection
occurred to me that, if a man was suddenly to be removed from
Palmyra
hither, and should take a view of no other city, in how
glorious a light would the ancient
architecture appear to him!
and what
desolation and
destruction of arts and sciences would he
conclude had happened between the several eras of these cities!
I had now waited full three hours upon deck for the return of my
man, whom I had sent to bespeak a good dinner (a thing which had
been long unknown to me) on shore, and then to bring a Lisbon
chaise with him to the
seashore; but it seems the impertinence of
the providore was not yet brought to a
conclusion. At three
o'clock, when I was from emptiness, rather faint than hungry, my
man returned, and told me there was a new law
lately made that no
passenger should set his foot on shore without a special order
from the providore, and that he himself would have been sent to
prison for disobeying it, had he not been protected as the
servant of the captain. He informed me
likewise that the captain
had been very
industrious to get this order, but that it was then
the providore's hour of sleep, a time when no man, except the
king himself, durst
disturb him.
To avoid prolixity, though in a part of my
narrative which may be
more
agreeable to my reader than it was to me, the providore,
having at last finished his nap, dispatched this
absurd matter of
form, and gave me leave to come, or rather to be carried, on shore.
What it was that gave the first hint of this strange law is not
easy to guess. Possibly, in the
infancy of their defection, and
before their government could be well established, they were
willing to guard against the bare
possibility of surprise, of the
success of which bare
possibility the Trojan horse will remain
for ever on record, as a great and
memorable example. Now the
Portuguese have no walls to secure them, and a
vessel of two or
three hundred tons will
contain a much larger body of troops than
could be concealed in that famous machine, though Virgil tells us
(somewhat hyperbolically, I believe) that it was as big as a
mountain.
About seven in the evening I got into a chaise on shore, and was
driven through the nastiest city in the world, though at the same
time one of the most
populous, to a kind of coffee-house, which
is very
pleasantlysituated on the brow of a hill, about a mile
from the city, and hath a very fine
prospect of the river Tajo
from Lisbon to the sea. Here we regaled ourselves with a good
supper, for which we were as well charged as if the bill had been
made on the Bath-road, between Newbury and London.
And now we could
joyfully say,
Egressi optata Troes potiuntur arena.
Therefore, in the words of Horace,
--hie Finis chartaeque viaeque.
End