business with excellent ability."
After inspecting the little harbour of Bervie, one of the first
works of the kind executed by Telford for the Commissioners, the
party proceeded by Stonehaven, and from
thence along the coast to
Aberdeen. Here the harbour works were visited and admired:--
"The quay," says Southey, "is very fine; and Telford has carried
out his pier 900 feet beyond the point where Smeaton's terminated.
This great work, which has cost 100,000L., protects the entrance
of the harbour from the whole force of the North Sea. A ship was
entering it at the time of our visit, the Prince of Waterloo.
She had been to America; had discharged her cargo at London; and we
now saw her reach her own port in safety--a
joyous and delightful
sight."
The next point reached was Banff, along the Don and the line of the
Inverury Canal:--
"The approach to Banff is very fine,"*[4] says Southey, "by the
Earl of Fife's grounds, where the trees are
surprisingly grown,
considering how near they are to the North Sea; Duff House--
a square, odd, and not unhandsome pile, built by Adams (one of the
Adelphi brothers), some forty years ago; a good
bridge of seven
arches by Smeaton; the open sea, not as we had
hitherto seen it,
grey under a leaden sky, but bright and blue in the
sunshine; Banff
on the left of the bay; the River Doveran almost lost amid banks of
shingle, where it enters the sea; a white and tolerably high shore
extending eastwards; a kirk, with a high spire which serves as a
sea-mark; and, on the point, about a mile to the east, the town of
Macduff. At Banff, we at once went to the pier, about half finished,
on which 15,000L. will be
expended, to the great benefit of this
clean,
cheerful, and active little town. The pier was a busy
scene; hand-carts going to and fro over the railroads, cranes at
work charging and discharging, plenty of
workmen, and fine masses
of red
granite from the Peterhead quarries. The quay was almost
covered with barrels of herrings, which women were
busily employed
in salting and packing."
The next visit was paid to the harbour works at Cullen, which were
sufficiently
advanced to afford improved shelter for the
fishingvessels of the little port:--
"When I stood upon the pier at low water," says Southey, "seeing
the
tremendous rocks with which the whole shore is bristled, and
the open sea to which the place is exposed, it was with a proud
feeling that I saw the first talents in the world employed by the
British Government in works of such unostentatious, but great,
immediate, palpable, and
permanentutility. Already their excellent
effects are felt. The
fishing vessels were just coming in, having
caught about 300 barrels of herrings during the night....
"However the Forfeited Estates Fund may have been misapplied in
past times, the
remainder could not be better invested than in
these great improvements. Wherever a pier is needed, if the people
or the proprietors of the place will raise one-half the necessary
funds, Government supplies the other half. On these terms,
20,000L. are
expending at Peterhead, and 14,000L. at Frazerburgh;
and the works which we visited at Bervie and Banff, and many other
such along this coast, would never have been undertaken without
such aid; public liberality thus inducing private persons to tax
themselves heavily, and
expend with a good will much larger sums
than could have been drawn from them by taxation."
From Cullen, the travellers proceeded in gigs to Fochabers,
thenceby Craigellachie Bridge, which Southey greatly admired, along
Speyside, to Ballindalloch and Inverallen, where Telford's new road
was in course of
construction across the moors towards Forres.
The country for the greater part of the way was a wild waste, nothing
but mountains and
heather to be seen; yet the road was as perfectly
made and maintained as if it had lain through a very Goschen.
The next stages were to Nairn and Inverness, from
whence then
proceeded to view the important works constructed at the crossing
of the River Beauly:--
"At Lovat Bridge," says Southey, "we turned aside and went four
miles up the river, along the Strathglass road--one of the new
works, and one of the most
remarkable, because of the difficulty of
constructing it, and also because of the fine
scenery which it
commands.....